chain saw

[Bear]

Originally Posted By: cronk
Originally Posted By: tdi-rick
I disagree with the comments on only using Stihl chain.

Any sharp chain cuts the best

Learn how to file, get a couple of spare loops and you'll be set.


I disagree totally. I have a Stihl MS290, when I purchased it, I bought a spare Stihl chain from the dealer. Both the chain on the saw and the extra cut super fast and seemed to hold a sharp edge quite a while. I later needed a replacement chain, bought an Oregon at the local box store. Not only did it cut much slower, it did not hold an edge nearly as long.
After only a couple days cutting with it, went in the garbage can.
Put a Stihl chain on, and it was back to the fast cutting, low maintenance saw I remembered with original chain.


Stihl chain is treated to a higher hardness then most if not all of the other brands, And therefore with proper usage last longer.

 

[tdi-rick]

Originally Posted By: Bear
Stihl chain is treated to a higher hardness then most if not all of the other brands, And therefore with proper usage last longer.

No it's not.

I've seen hardness tests performed on Stihl, Oregon and Carlton 3/8 chain on multiple points of the cutter and they were within points of each other.
Stihl may have slightly thicker chrome (hard chrome) but Oregon has it's multi-cut chain for abrasive conditions too (thicker chrome)

Cronk, what chains were you using ?

IME Carlton, Stihl and the now dead Windsor, all in 3/8 non-saftey chain cut and last equally effectively in brutal, hard as nails Eucalypts such as White Box, and FWIW most race chain is based on Oregon.

If you use funky safety chain with extra bumper links, bent over rakers, etc. it won't cut near as fast as non safety chain unless radical surgery is performed.

I have several hundred feet of chain here from the four major suppliers (OK, it's really only two, Blount and Stihl) and have no real favourites, the main differences come down to smoothness in the cut.

 

[cronk]

I was using standard Stihl chain vs. standard Oregon chain.
There was absolutely no comparison, Stihl chain cut noticeably faster and went almost twice as long before needing sharpening.

 

[tdi-rick]

Originally Posted By: cronk
I was using standard Stihl chain vs. standard Oregon chain.
There was absolutely no comparison, Stihl chain cut noticeably faster and went almost twice as long before needing sharpening.


model #'s ?

There are that many variations if you look in a chain catalogue it can be bewildering.

 

[Durangoboy]

MS 270 Stihl Farm Boss 18" bar

Going on my 4th year for this saw and some 50odd cords of wood cut with it.

I had a couple of problems to deal with on this saw.
First, The rubber boot that seals the carb to the intake port cracked and leaked air. Saw would run fine till it got warmed up and cleaned out and then it would idle out of control and the throttle control was lost. The crack in the boot was allowing air to enter the intake causing he engine to get air in the system and cause a lean condition. The "Bubba Mechanic" saw shop I took it to was a PITA to get them to figure it out.

Secondly,,the High and Low air fuel mixture screws have a plastic stop on them to limit adjustment. I could not adjust the High speed and Low speed to allow the engine to run correctly. I took the carb off and got those dam stops off the screw's and now she idles perfect and the top end runs much better or rather perfect.

 

[tdi-rick]

Originally Posted By: Durangoboy
MS 270 Stihl Farm Boss 18" bar

Going on my 4th year for this saw and some 50odd cords of wood cut with it.

I had a couple of problems to deal with on this saw.
First, The rubber boot that seals the carb to the intake port cracked and leaked air. Saw would run fine till it got warmed up and cleaned out and then it would idle out of control and the throttle control was lost. The crack in the boot was allowing air to enter the intake causing he engine to get air in the system and cause a lean condition. The "Bubba Mechanic" saw shop I took it to was a PITA to get them to figure it out.

Secondly,,the High and Low air fuel mixture screws have a plastic stop on them to limit adjustment. I could not adjust the High speed and Low speed to allow the engine to run correctly. I took the carb off and got those dam stops off the screw's and now she idles perfect and the top end runs much better or rather perfect.


Carb boot tears or leaks aren't just limited to Stihl, you're lucky you didn't fry the P&C.

Screw limiters are common on all US sold saws now, and some even have a solid plug over the HS screw so the user can't tune it, which is scary

 

[raffy]

I'll add to all the recommendations for Stihl chainsaws. I have a 029 Farm Boss, bought brand new in the late '90's. I think Stihl's current equivalent is the MS290. I have used this for a few chores around the house but it has been a hoss of a saw for me during disaster relief activities. It has seen lots of action during the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina in south Mississippi and more still during the late April tornado outbreak in the South. I've used only Stihl chains on it and it has worked great. But after lots of use even those need sharpening from time to time. I've had no trouble with it and would highly recommend it!

Get that MS250 if it is adequate for your needs! You won't regret it.