Certified Pre-Owned Wrong Size Air Filter

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Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by parshisa
900$ for 60K service? what exactly was done within the scope of this service?

Detail the car? not sure since when autucar wash is considered to be a detail...

As far as CPO goes - it as a complete joke. JMO

Oil Change (0W-20), brake flush, air filter, cabin filter and spark plugs (since it is a DI engine). $900 is the average price. They probably did a wash/vacuum, tire shine, windows in/out and wiped the dash - that's what a lot of folks consider to be a "detail."



[censored] for that price the 60K should include a timing belt change!
 
This is why I check everything in a new to me vehicle.

Even my 2018 Santa Fe that was only 8 months old with 10,000 miles, I checked the air filter, cabin filter, oil level, brake fluid level, coolant level, battery, and even the oil filter (top mounted canister), no dipstick to check transmission fluid..
Air filter, oil and oil filter had been replaced by the selling dealer, cabin filter was a little dirty (changed it anyway since I bought one). Other fluids were fine, and battery was placed on charger overnight to make sure it has a good charge.
 
If its OEM extended warranty IMO it is worth looking into CPO. Often you can get the benefits of buying new without the new car price but with rebates there are times you are better off just buying new because it may cost less out the door and down the road.
 
On the CPO inspection the tech may have accessed the filter, glanced at the media and saw it was good so that was that. He focused on the media but not the filter itself to see that it was correct.
 
Nothing is pencil whipped quicker than a CPO checklist by the inspecting tech. Vast majority of CPO cars on a given brand dealer lot were bought at auction because they met the mileage and age criteria and they show a clean Carfax. Many are prior rental and car fleet returns. To me, that should not be allowed for a CPO vehicle. .

About 5 years ago, was in the market for a decent used Corolla and my local Toyota all of a sudden overnight had close to 20 "CPO" Corolla's on the lot. Looked at about 5 and test drove three and they all had issues that should have been caught if the CPO inspection was done right which it was not. All had usual rental wear and none could be confused at close up inspection as a cream puff trade in.
 
I drive a CPO Corolla every day. It was a fleet vehicle that I purchased at 33K miles.

At 184K miles, I've had to pay for a new AUX jack. Everything else has been routine maintenance, and a few safety recalls.

Hootbro might be entirely correct about his dealer's ragged-out Corollas. But that doesn't mean all fleet vehicles are a bad deal, just as not all CPO vehicles are a bad deal. A fleet vehicle might have had one driver who drove like an old man. Or flogged by young hotshots.

Experiences differ by vehicle, owner, and dealer. You have to look at each vehicle, and each deal.
 
CPO is really for peace of mind. Majority of the time you get a better kept car, maintenance wise, and it'll sometimes show less wear/tear than the non CPOs....the extra warranty is nice to have as most used cars fall right out of the original new car warranty. My is250 has some serious scratches and a dent on the front fender, lots of rock chips on bumper, first owner was lease, second owner purchased and traded in 3 years later, they sold my car as a CPO. Navigation screen was peeling and they told me it's normal wear/tear. I told them something like that shouldn't be sold as CPO. The sales department ended up goodwilling the replacement no questions asked.

But I've seen a lot of CPOs that just get the sticker slapped on. All they do is buy them at auction and if it's in better than average shape they certify it, if not they get sold as regular used cars, but again most of the time if it's a franchised dealer selling a used car of their brand it's usually gonna be in good shape CPO or not. This is why I always prefer to buy new. People talk about depreciation and what not. I just see less issues down the road. Proper break in, proper fluids/OCI, fixing whatever needs to be fixed.

I doubt the filter would cause a rattle though. Even if there's a 1" gap it's held in place by the filter housing, and it's plastic on plastic, plus the air box doesn't move that much. If changing the oil stops it it's usually a valve issue. Either from using bad oil, too thin of a oil, or going over OCI. My friends jeep 3.8L rattles during start up...he drove 16 hours on 1 quart of oil because he didn't realize the 3.8 burns thru it. When I drained it I saw less than 1/2 quart come out of the engine...
 
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Originally Posted by avacado11
CPO is really for peace of mind. Majority of the time you get a better kept car, maintenance wise, and it'll sometimes show less wear/tear than the non CPOs....the extra warranty is nice to have as most used cars fall right out of the original new car warranty. My is250 has some serious scratches and a dent on the front fender, lots of rock chips on bumper, first owner was lease, second owner purchased and traded in 3 years later, they sold my car as a CPO. Navigation screen was peeling and they told me it's normal wear/tear. I told them something like that shouldn't be sold as CPO. The sales department ended up goodwilling the replacement no questions asked.

But I've seen a lot of CPOs that just get the sticker slapped on. All they do is buy them at auction and if it's in better than average shape they certify it, if not they get sold as regular used cars, but again most of the time if it's a franchised dealer selling a used car of their brand it's usually gonna be in good shape CPO or not. This is why I always prefer to buy new. People talk about depreciation and what not. I just see less issues down the road. Proper break in, proper fluids/OCI, fixing whatever needs to be fixed.

I doubt the filter would cause a rattle though. Even if there's a 1" gap it's held in place by the filter housing, and it's plastic on plastic, plus the air box doesn't move that much. If changing the oil stops it it's usually a valve issue. Either from using bad oil, too thin of a oil, or going over OCI. My friends jeep 3.8L rattles during start up...he drove 16 hours on 1 quart of oil because he didn't realize the 3.8 burns thru it. When I drained it I saw less than 1/2 quart come out of the engine...


I agree, my theory is maybe the 1" gap allowed a lot of dust into the intake which clogged the oil filter causing the bypass valve to activate. Since it only happens on start when the car has been sitting for 12 hours or more maybe it takes time for the oil pressure to regulate?

Even though I have a warranty, I hope the oil/filter change will fix it because we just do not have time to deal with this going to the dealer and having a long drawn out process because we both work opposite each other and have a young baby we share responsibility of watching.
 
I thought CPO usually came with the extended warranty. Meaning, you could buy a car with 30k or 50k or 70k on it, but it'd still have warranty out to 100k. Which may be peace of mind. A person could determine how fast they would drive out of warranty and then determine how to have it paid off by then, and be happy with that--that might not be to everyone's liking but it's a free market.

Older cars tend to have lower reg&ins costs so it might hit someone's sweet spot in TCO while still having a warranty.

Now the various checks may or may not be done. But as we all know, the required work may or may not be done by prior owners either--every used car is a bit of a gamble.
 
Our CPO 2016 Nissan Quest was missing it's spare tire!

The cable winch was balled up and somewhat stuffed into the undercarriage.

Other items were also signed off in TRIPLICATE that were missing or damaged. The check list was just pencil whipped.

I got more b/b extended warranty out of them because of it.
 
Took it to the dealer, it was a bad timing belt tensioner. Replaced under warranty. Kinda strange for only 45k?
 
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