Well done. Arguably all the plastic is more important than the paint since the sun will just destroy it.
ceramic coated Bronco; finally complete
- Thread starter Texchappy
- Start date
It’s all coated too.
My oldest son put Adam's Graphene on his factory fresh, bought new by him 2020 F-150 with the Coyote motor. I helped him apply it soon after he bought it. Powerful fumes. We got loopy on that stuff! Seriously!
His truck sits outside 24x7. He's never topped it off with anything. All is gets is an impersonal weekly wash done by a group of strangers. The paint still looks truly factory fresh, even 4 plus years and 200 "industrial" washes later.
FWIW,
Scott
I have coated many cars over the last decade. Some for myself, some for others. Two of the ones in my fleet are currently coated. While they do make washing a bit easier, I have seen zero evidence that they offer any protection to the paint.
May I suggest watching ten or so YouTube videos, any videos, on the subject. If they don’t offer paint protection, ceramics are the biggest “the king has no clothes” example of all time.
What exactly do you mean by protection? Any evidence that waxes do? Sealants?
Feel free to share.
Protection from UV degradation. PPF is the only add on that has demonstrated protection for me. From what I’ve seen, ceramic coatings do not offer any protection beyond a wax or sealant; the only benefit is a slightly longer lifespan.
Some do state they offer Uv protection but I can’t say for sure they do. The easier washing is a real benefit to me. I’m not sure that I’d say that 3-6 month versus 3-6 year is a slightly longer life span (and from what I’ve seen personally the 3 year is definitely doable).
How much do you charge ?
I’m not trying to call you out or cause trouble…..
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Previously you mentioned you charge $500 to do a bumper to bumper ‘fine tooth comb’ inspection for a pre purchase used vehicle inspection. which I thought was fair.
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The last new vehicle correction and coating I did was a Colorado back in '22. I charged $1500 and used IGL Kenzo.
That seems to be in line with what I’ve seen around here but some charge quite a bit more. Think I’ve seen $3200 given for correct and coat, which seems excessive for West Texas.
It’s about $3k out here as well.
Just pray the paint stays attached. My Ford had nice shinny paint peeling off
anywhere from $2700-$3500 around me in NC for full size suv/truck.
100%. I paid quite a bit and the end result was nothing more than I could have done with a trip to the auto parts store! Tree sap, bird crap and the everyday stuff stuck just like always. A few years later and it’s like I never even did it. I actually think that swirl marks from the wash show more than if I wouldn’t have had it done. In fact, the only car I didn’t have done takes a lot less to detail than the coated ones.
Then there was something seriously wrong with the coating. How many years are we talking about later? Coatings are permanent.
I wonder if some poor results could be explained by either not using enough product, or poor prep?
Sometimes there’s just sh*t product too.
Edit: I’ve got a car that’s going on 4 years with a coating. It’s still solid and is supposed to last 7 years.
Another that’s been professionally done is supposed to last 9 years I believe. Either way, they are easier to wash compared to ones that aren’t.
Sometimes there’s just sh*t product too.
Edit: I’ve got a car that’s going on 4 years with a coating. It’s still solid and is supposed to last 7 years.
Another that’s been professionally done is supposed to last 9 years I believe. Either way, they are easier to wash compared to ones that aren’t.
That’s debatable. A lot of coatings will lose their hydrophobic and dirt-release properties if the “pores” get clogged. This can happen pretty quickly during the winter months. The only way to restore the hydrophobic properties is to do a decon wash with an iron remover or APC, and even that isn’t always successful. I have seen numerous situations where a coating has stopped beading since the owner had not washed the vehicle in 2 months.
The crux of the issue is: it isn’t always easy to confirm the presence of the coating.
What do you define as “solid?” Newer, clean, uncontaminated (smooth) paint will often bead relatively well too.
How are you able to confirm that your coating is still present?
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