centric rotors good?
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Centric "economy" rotors suck. Get 120 series
I think I got ones that were the next notch up from the cheap ones.
Originally Posted By: randomhero439
Centric "economy" rotors suck. Get 120 series
This.
Get the HD ones. Perfect matches to OEM. I've had them on my MS3 for a couple years now.
Centric "economy" rotors suck. Get 120 series
This.
Get the HD ones. Perfect matches to OEM. I've had them on my MS3 for a couple years now.
When I put bigger front brakes on a Camry I used Centrix. They are OK after about 5K.
I just bought Centric 125 high carbon rotors for $50 off of partsgeeks and will be putting them on this weekend sometime. They will be matched with thermoquiet brake pads. Partsgeek was cheaper than rockauto after shipping. Centric is the same company as Stop Tech, a very highly regarded company when it comes to brake systems.
Here is my thread from a week ago with some great info on the last page about centric.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2834724&page=3
Here is my thread from a week ago with some great info on the last page about centric.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2834724&page=3
i always went with the budget C-tek centric line. Did about 10 brake jobs in the last 3 years or so. Didn't have issues but now my last 2 has a light warp and i see a couple more post about the C-tek line being sour. I might go up to the prem line as its like $5-10 more per rotor and see how it goes.
Originally Posted By: bowlofturtle
i always went with the budget C-tek centric line. Did about 10 brake jobs in the last 3 years or so. Didn't have issues but now my last 2 has a light warp and i see a couple more post about the C-tek line being sour. I might go up to the prem line as its like $5-10 more per rotor and see how it goes.
Rotor runout is often 0.002-0.003 on the C-TEK rotors. This will especially be an issue if you do not clean the hub flange until it is shiny. Most cars nowadays require 0.002" or runout or less, so getting the 120 series Premium or 125 series Carbon is advised.
i always went with the budget C-tek centric line. Did about 10 brake jobs in the last 3 years or so. Didn't have issues but now my last 2 has a light warp and i see a couple more post about the C-tek line being sour. I might go up to the prem line as its like $5-10 more per rotor and see how it goes.
Rotor runout is often 0.002-0.003 on the C-TEK rotors. This will especially be an issue if you do not clean the hub flange until it is shiny. Most cars nowadays require 0.002" or runout or less, so getting the 120 series Premium or 125 series Carbon is advised.
Originally Posted By: dgee
nothing wrong with Centric's C-Tek rotors. Use them on both my ZJs and Camry along with a few neighbors' cars and have no issues with warping.
Like i said, i always used them w/o trouble. The last 2 cars after about 10-14k both cars happen to have a little warpage. It could be due to anything not point fingers at the rotors but there has been a couple of people on random car forums saying they have a couple issues with the C-tek rotors. Hence why going forward i'll give prem. line a try. I can deal with it but other people might not. The prem rotors still cost less then what they would pay for at autozone or w/e brake place.
nothing wrong with Centric's C-Tek rotors. Use them on both my ZJs and Camry along with a few neighbors' cars and have no issues with warping.
Like i said, i always used them w/o trouble. The last 2 cars after about 10-14k both cars happen to have a little warpage. It could be due to anything not point fingers at the rotors but there has been a couple of people on random car forums saying they have a couple issues with the C-tek rotors. Hence why going forward i'll give prem. line a try. I can deal with it but other people might not. The prem rotors still cost less then what they would pay for at autozone or w/e brake place.
I've had great luck with the centric 120 and 125 series rotors except for the fronts on my current car ('13 MINI Cooper S). On this car, the hub was slightly larger than the spindle, and it shifted a bit whenever I pulled the wheels off and eventually caused some pulsation because of uneven runout. Never seen anything like it before. Even the rears fit perfectly.
-Matt
-Matt
They are doing the job well on my dad's 2007 Pontiac G6.
Since I have been using Centric rotors, I have only had 1 rotor go bad as quickly as it did(3 months) and Centric's warranty is only for 3 months(90days).
I have used C-Tec rotors with good success and the Centric Premium w/E-Coating with the same success, except ONE(mentioned).
For whatever reason, this ONE rotor developed a pulsation very quickly and I had to replace it at my own cost. Believe it or not, I replaced it with an AAP WearEver Rotor and it's been great!
I have used C-Tec rotors with good success and the Centric Premium w/E-Coating with the same success, except ONE(mentioned).
For whatever reason, this ONE rotor developed a pulsation very quickly and I had to replace it at my own cost. Believe it or not, I replaced it with an AAP WearEver Rotor and it's been great!
Iron is iron, if the rotor is machined properly it will likely work well regardless of its price. As already mentioned, just a few minutes spent measuring it will tell you very easily before you assemble the brakes.
And many people here still mistake a PAD problem for a ROTOR problem. They are commonly confused.
And many people here still mistake a PAD problem for a ROTOR problem. They are commonly confused.
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