Castrol GTX - varnishing an engine?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
402
Location
midwest
I read a thread here recently to which I can't recall the name, but someone stated that every engine they have seen run on Castrol GTX dino had varnish. Now I realize how sludge can caust problems and ruin a motor over time.
Will varnish cause problems? I've never heard anyone say that GTX ever caused varnish problems until recenty; rather, all I've heard is how clean the engines were when changed with Castrol using the proper OCI.
Have any of you heard if Valvoline All Climate ever varnished an engine, or any other dino?
 
This is as good a time as any to make this point. You need to pretty much disregard samples of one in determining anything (especially those recounted on the internet or through a friend of a friend of a friend). Why?

(1) people with an axe to grind in relation to a particular product may be LYIING.
(2) anything can happen ONCE.
(3) some people like to stir pots, especially if that pot belongs to someone or something very popular engendering jealousy or resentment or if it will bring them notoriety.
(4) engines, the object of attention in this particular sample of one, like life, are full of variables

Look for trends based on known conditions, documented by people you trust, before you start jumping to intellectual or emotional conclusions...
 
It is true.

My wife bought a new Mercedes in 1999. It was dealer serviced every 5,000 miles.

We traded it in after 35,000 miles, and the varnish on the rocker arms was heavy.

The dealer used Castrol GTX.
 
Does anyone have an experience with Valvoline causing this issue, or even sludge for that matter?
 
My442,

Did the engine have any issues or occurences that you know of that might have caused the varnish independent of the oil used? I would be surprised that a reputable dealer would continue to use a product which produced this kind of result on a regular and recurring basis...and since the dealer was using GTX...
 
My dad used Castrol GTX in his 91 Festiva from 80k to 170k and it has quite a bit of varnish. I make sure all our vehicles are in good running order, so i'm sure a pcv valve or likes didn't cause it. Although my 91 Festiva, according to the records, had Castrol in it from the 1st to oil change to 82k and it had some varnish, but wasn't as bad yet. So maybe at 170k it could have been the same, who knows? The only difference was in the weight, 20w-50 in my dads and 10w-30 in mine. Both was changed at 3k oci. I have been having him run supertech in it the last 6k, and at 3k the oil's extremely red in color. With Castrol it used to start tapping (HLA's) around 2.5- 2.75k and with the supertech it wasn't tapping at 3k. Due the fact the other vehicles I've used Castrol in i've noticed a increase in engine noise and this case of varnish, I think the days of using castrol in our family is over. But the choice of oil really depends on the design of the engine, you may not have this problem in yours.
 
LOL, if anyone is interested in what Castrol will do to an iVTEC 2.4 I'll find out! I just put some 5W30 into my spotless after 63,000 miles always Mobil1'd engine. Different oils affect different engines differently. Who knows? I know my Saabs really do well on M1 but whose to say they wouldn't look good if they'd had Havoline dino. That's why I like a good flush every now and then to makes sure things stay clean.
 
Eric,

I can understand why you guys feel the way you do about GTX and I certainly do not take issue with your experience with the oil. I would like to know what was run in your dad's car prior to the 80K point, but nonetheless, I can understand why you would try something else. Hope WHATEVER you choose gives you good service.
cheers.gif
 
I've used Castrol GTX and Castrol HD all my life. Never had to have a single cylinder head off. About 7 bikes and 7 cars. If Castrol causes varnish or sludge, I think I would have noticed.
 
Does anyone have any good or bad experiences with Valvoline All Climate regarding any varnishing or sludging?
 
I don't think any modern gf-4 conventional oil is going to perform better or worst than another in this regard. It isn't like Valvoline or Castrol add a special"pro-Varnishing" additive. And they both buy their base oil on the commodity market. They all must pass certain test to get the SM designation.
If all things mechancal on the vehicle ar ein good order wthe best thing you can do is use an oil that not only meets API specs but also carries ACEA approval.. they test specifically for this. The sequence VG test is particularly of interest and seems like a brutal enough test to see if an oil is sludge and varnish prone or not. . API http://www.swri.edu/4org/d08/GasTests/vg.pdf
& ACEA http://www.swri.edu/4org/d08/global/LTSludge/default.htm

[ November 27, 2005, 10:30 PM: Message edited by: Bryanccfshr ]
 
GTX is a very good oil, just a little overpriced.

I would love to see 'actual' photos of GTX causing sludge in a non turbo or sludge prone (Toyota, VW, Dodge) engine.
dunno.gif
 
The watch word unfortunately will remain "BUYER BEWARE" AT ALL LEVELS. And check, check and RE-check!!

I did a lot of research before I got Castrol GTX for two (NEW) cars 1. 1982 Honda Accord 2.1985 Toyota Camry both 4 bangers. CR's at the time highly recommended Castrol GTX. I performed 2/3k OCI's. the Honda Accord was run app 97,000 miles and the Toyota Camry was run app 95,000 miles. Both vehicles' engines were varnished and sludged. The Toyota Camry was more varnished and sludged and the most graphic in that it sprung a leak in the manifold which Toyota declined to cover under any warranty (both goodwill and secret) and burnt valves etc. Just the engine repair costs were app 2500. (on a car sold after more massive repairs for 4500). The engine was almost gross. Part of the repair was to remove the sludge and varnish.

My only AXE to grind is that I would not want varnishing and sludging to happen again to any one of my engines. So the next 8 vehicles I have been using (synthetic) Mobil One 5w30 for app 665,000 miles. I also use 0w20 (11,000 miles and 5w40 (69,000 miles) Any spot or scheduled valve cover removal showed the innards to be spotless. NO VARNISH, NO SLUDGE.

Keep in mind that I do 15,000 mile OCI's with the 5w30 vehicles!!! I do 10,000 mile OCIs with the 0w20 product only because it is still under warranty and will have no qualms going to 15k-20k after. I also do 25,000 mile OCI's with the TDI application

So with only 10 ANECDOTAL data points, I personally would avoid Castrol and specifically GTX. Would anyone dare to run the Castrol product 15,000 mile OCI's?

There is a Castrol that is "tailor made" for my TDI application; "GC or German" Castrol 5w40. I ran it for 5,000 miles as the OEM fill. I changed it at the first recommended OCI. However I did not continue Castrol use; because research has shown Mobil One 5w40 aka Delvac One 5w40 to be:

1. cheaper upfront
2. more available off the shelf
3 longer lasting, thus cheaper long term
4. MUCH more robust oil, better protection

[ November 28, 2005, 02:39 PM: Message edited by: ruking77 ]
 
What proof is there that Delvac I better protects a passenger gas vehicle vs. Belguim (not German) Castrol 5W-40???? Where's the proof that group 4 protects better than group-3? I know it lasts longer... but protection???????

Also... I understands it's (Delvac I) merits with diesel applications.... but aren't 1-2 additives missing from Delvac I that are found in Mobil-1 T & SUV ... additives that are beneficial to passenger gas vehicles???????
 
"GC is a 0w30 not 5w40, the 5w40 is said to be GrIII made in Belgium. The GC is much better. "

That may very well be. However the oem fill for my Jetta TDI was 5w40 Castrol and the VW dealers stock 5w40 Castrol that specifically meets the VW 505.00 standards. This has long since dropped off the radar for me now that I made the switch.
 
It has been my experience that any dino oil will cause varnish after many many miles. I don't see this with synthetics. I think if you want to eliminate varnish you have two choices; use synthetic oil all the time or use dino oil and auto-rx your engine from time to time. Auto-rx will clean varnish where there is good oil flow. I use Castrol GTX in the TR3 and yes it has varnish but no sludge. Varnish is only a cosmetic issue in my opinion.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom