I'm do for an oil change in 1,300 miles or so. I have both Castrol EDGE Extended Performance 5w30 and 0w40 Belgium Castrol in my stash. I thought the EP was their best oil, but I have read on here that the 0w40 is also very very good. I see a more comprehensive list of specs on the 0w40 including MB 229.5x, which I think means potentially lower NOACK etc. They both carry the Honda HT-06. This is for the Zetec in my little Focus. Which one should I run first?
Castrol Edge EP vs Belgium
- Thread starter Syntheticuser
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Hot weather now, run the thicker and go to the 5w30 for winter
Originally Posted By: Syntheticuser
I'm do for an oil change in 1,300 miles or so. I have both Castrol EDGE Extended Performance 5w30 and 0w40 Belgium Castrol in my stash. I thought the EP was their best oil, but I have read on here that the 0w40 is also very very good. I see a more comprehensive list of specs on the 0w40 including MB 229.5x, which I think means potentially lower NOACK etc. They both carry the Honda HT-06. This is for the Zetec in my little Focus. Which one should I run first?
I believe regular 0w40 is just MB 229.5. That's different from 229.51 and 229.52 so I'm not sure what you mean by 229.5x. MB 229.5 is for gas engines, those other 229.51 and 229.52 are for diesels. You probably meant 229.X which would cover 229.3 and 229.5. MB 229.3 was the older spec before MB 229.5. I use 0w40 in my Mercedes. Also 0w30 meets the same spec. I don't think 5w30 has it. However in your case, I don't think the Zetec cares that much, isn't the spec 5w20?
I'm do for an oil change in 1,300 miles or so. I have both Castrol EDGE Extended Performance 5w30 and 0w40 Belgium Castrol in my stash. I thought the EP was their best oil, but I have read on here that the 0w40 is also very very good. I see a more comprehensive list of specs on the 0w40 including MB 229.5x, which I think means potentially lower NOACK etc. They both carry the Honda HT-06. This is for the Zetec in my little Focus. Which one should I run first?
I believe regular 0w40 is just MB 229.5. That's different from 229.51 and 229.52 so I'm not sure what you mean by 229.5x. MB 229.5 is for gas engines, those other 229.51 and 229.52 are for diesels. You probably meant 229.X which would cover 229.3 and 229.5. MB 229.3 was the older spec before MB 229.5. I use 0w40 in my Mercedes. Also 0w30 meets the same spec. I don't think 5w30 has it. However in your case, I don't think the Zetec cares that much, isn't the spec 5w20?
It is speced for 5w20. I currently have a ton of oil in my stash (72qts.) I have a bunch of Castrol including Castrol EDGE Extended Performance, BC 0w40 and Magnatec 0w20. The car was run on everything from 0w20 to 5w40 and everything in between. It has no leaks or seepage and is still on the full mark at 5,000 miles when I change it.
One thing though, I know color is no indication of oil condition but the oil is JET black after 3,200 miles or so. Why would that be?it has always done it. I have done 2 TB changes and it is spotless under the cam cover when I removed i
t. The car only has 287,000 miles on it, I could buy another but I have taken such good care of this one and it runs well.
One thing though, I know color is no indication of oil condition but the oil is JET black after 3,200 miles or so. Why would that be?it has always done it. I have done 2 TB changes and it is spotless under the cam cover when I removed i
t. The car only has 287,000 miles on it, I could buy another but I have taken such good care of this one and it runs well.
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
However in your case, I don't think the Zetec cares that much, isn't the spec 5w20?
I believe 5W-20 was from MY 2001 and up. I have a 1996 Zetec Contour that obviously was spec'd 5w30, no 5W-20 oil around at that time. Early on I tried 5W-50, in my pre BITOG days and found that it lost power and mpg, significantly. I went back to synthetic 5w30 and it's happiest. The last UOA I did at almost a 9,000 mile OCI came back excellent with plenty of life left in the oil, Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. The Setec engine is easy on oil. If you have another vehicle that can use the 0W-40 oil then I'd use the 5w30 in the Zetec. If not there is no harm using the 0W-40, you might lose some power and mpg, or might not.
Whimsey
However in your case, I don't think the Zetec cares that much, isn't the spec 5w20?
I believe 5W-20 was from MY 2001 and up. I have a 1996 Zetec Contour that obviously was spec'd 5w30, no 5W-20 oil around at that time. Early on I tried 5W-50, in my pre BITOG days and found that it lost power and mpg, significantly. I went back to synthetic 5w30 and it's happiest. The last UOA I did at almost a 9,000 mile OCI came back excellent with plenty of life left in the oil, Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. The Setec engine is easy on oil. If you have another vehicle that can use the 0W-40 oil then I'd use the 5w30 in the Zetec. If not there is no harm using the 0W-40, you might lose some power and mpg, or might not.
Whimsey
Originally Posted By: Syntheticuser
It is speced for 5w20. I currently have a ton of oil in my stash (72qts.) I have a bunch of Castrol including Castrol EDGE Extended Performance, BC 0w40 and Magnatec 0w20. The car was run on everything from 0w20 to 5w40 and everything in between. It has no leaks or seepage and is still on the full mark at 5,000 miles when I change it.
One thing though, I know color is no indication of oil condition but the oil is JET black after 3,200 miles or so. Why would that be?it has always done it. I have done 2 TB changes and it is spotless under the cam cover when I removed i
t. The car only has 287,000 miles on it, I could buy another but I have taken such good care of this one and it runs well.
I pound the the dickens out of my Zetec, it has a manual transmission, and the oil always comes out medium amber even at 9,000 mile OCI. I believe yours has the variable valve or cam timing where as mine doesn't. Maybe that makes it harder on the oil.
Whimsey
It is speced for 5w20. I currently have a ton of oil in my stash (72qts.) I have a bunch of Castrol including Castrol EDGE Extended Performance, BC 0w40 and Magnatec 0w20. The car was run on everything from 0w20 to 5w40 and everything in between. It has no leaks or seepage and is still on the full mark at 5,000 miles when I change it.
One thing though, I know color is no indication of oil condition but the oil is JET black after 3,200 miles or so. Why would that be?it has always done it. I have done 2 TB changes and it is spotless under the cam cover when I removed i
t. The car only has 287,000 miles on it, I could buy another but I have taken such good care of this one and it runs well.
I pound the the dickens out of my Zetec, it has a manual transmission, and the oil always comes out medium amber even at 9,000 mile OCI. I believe yours has the variable valve or cam timing where as mine doesn't. Maybe that makes it harder on the oil.
Whimsey
Whimsey,
I have some air cooled ope, but they don't take much. I typically use older stock Rotella T6 that I use in my Ford Powerstroke in the ope. My car doesn't seem to mind the thicker oil, at least from a power and fuel mileage standpoint.
I have some air cooled ope, but they don't take much. I typically use older stock Rotella T6 that I use in my Ford Powerstroke in the ope. My car doesn't seem to mind the thicker oil, at least from a power and fuel mileage standpoint.
Castrol EDGE 0w-40 is for high HT/HS viscosity applications. I don't believe your Focus engine requires high HT/HS viscosity, so Castrol EDGE 0w-40 might be overkill, but other than a minuscule hit on fuel economy, it's not going to cause any harm. If you already have the oil, use it.
Otherwise, just stick to a resource conserving 5w30.
Otherwise, just stick to a resource conserving 5w30.
Originally Posted By: Syntheticuser
The car only has 287,000 miles on it, I could buy another but I have taken such good care of this one and it runs well.
What year is your Focus?
Ya see, stuff like this always makes me reluctant to sell my Focus.
The car only has 287,000 miles on it, I could buy another but I have taken such good care of this one and it runs well.
What year is your Focus?
Ya see, stuff like this always makes me reluctant to sell my Focus.
Mine is an 02' it's been a great car. A blower motor and resistor (oem Motorcraft) from Rock Auto, KYB quick struts, Motor mounts, tie rods, ball joints ....the rest has been fluid, filter and rubber maintenance. Work is done by me. So labor is cheap.
It's my DD, the truck stays parked in the barn unless I need to pull a trailer.
I could write a check for a new one, but I don't see the need....well maybe for a stick.
I use Microgreen filters for the 2um filtering, Wix air and fuel filters, MC trans filter, RP EZ max in the PS, Prestone brake fluid, Prestone Gray bottle coolant.
It's my DD, the truck stays parked in the barn unless I need to pull a trailer.
I could write a check for a new one, but I don't see the need....well maybe for a stick.
I use Microgreen filters for the 2um filtering, Wix air and fuel filters, MC trans filter, RP EZ max in the PS, Prestone brake fluid, Prestone Gray bottle coolant.
Lolvoguy,
If it has been good to you, I'd keep it. I have had people try to ruffle my feathers about driving "such an old car with a lot of miles on it". I'd rather save my money. I don't see a need for something new and shiny paint just to impress others. I'd love another stick as a DD though. I do get my fix with the truck.
If it has been good to you, I'd keep it. I have had people try to ruffle my feathers about driving "such an old car with a lot of miles on it". I'd rather save my money. I don't see a need for something new and shiny paint just to impress others. I'd love another stick as a DD though. I do get my fix with the truck.
Originally Posted By: Syntheticuser
Mine is an 02' it's been a great car. A blower motor and resistor (oem Motorcraft) from Rock Auto, KYB quick struts, Motor mounts, tie rods, ball joints ....the rest has been fluid, filter and rubber maintenance. Work is done by me. So labor is cheap.
It's my DD, the truck stays parked in the barn unless I need to pull a trailer.
I could write a check for a new one, but I don't see the need....well maybe for a stick.
I feel the same about my 1996 Zetec Contour. It has about 113,000 miles on it, barely broken in
. I did replace the rear struts twice, and the brakes once. The blower motor resister was replaced preemptively by the dealer for free. Other than that it has only had regular maintenance done by me mostly. I ordered this car new in Sept 1995 with the 5 speed manual transmission and wide aluminum tire rims that came with the wide 205-60-15 tires. This car is my "poor mans" BMW. It's a blast to drive and handles great, I love winding the Zetec out
. It's a keeper!
Whimsey
Mine is an 02' it's been a great car. A blower motor and resistor (oem Motorcraft) from Rock Auto, KYB quick struts, Motor mounts, tie rods, ball joints ....the rest has been fluid, filter and rubber maintenance. Work is done by me. So labor is cheap.
It's my DD, the truck stays parked in the barn unless I need to pull a trailer.
I could write a check for a new one, but I don't see the need....well maybe for a stick.
I feel the same about my 1996 Zetec Contour. It has about 113,000 miles on it, barely broken in
Whimsey
I wind mine out often. I have a Robles tune on it. I got the tune for the transmission programming. It made a big difference.
I would be surprised if the car didn't go 350k miles or more. The Zetec seems to be a reliable but slightly rough motor. It shakes a bit at idle, doesn't get 43mpg that people claim on the new ones but it runs good.
I would be surprised if the car didn't go 350k miles or more. The Zetec seems to be a reliable but slightly rough motor. It shakes a bit at idle, doesn't get 43mpg that people claim on the new ones but it runs good.
Originally Posted By: Syntheticuser
I wind mine out often. I have a Robles tune on it. I got the tune for the transmission programming. It made a big difference.
I would be surprised if the car didn't go 350k miles or more. The Zetec seems to be a reliable but slightly rough motor. It shakes a bit at idle, doesn't get 43mpg that people claim on the new ones but it runs good.
My Contour is not a "refined" vehicle by today's standards but it's a great dependable fun vehicle to drive and I get 30 mpg doing my usual driving, I'll get 36 mpg for long trips at 75-80 mph. Unrefined describes the first vehicle I drove, my parents 1958 Oldsmobile 88, no power anything! It was a bear to drive, it built your arm and leg muscles up
.
Whimsey
I wind mine out often. I have a Robles tune on it. I got the tune for the transmission programming. It made a big difference.
I would be surprised if the car didn't go 350k miles or more. The Zetec seems to be a reliable but slightly rough motor. It shakes a bit at idle, doesn't get 43mpg that people claim on the new ones but it runs good.
My Contour is not a "refined" vehicle by today's standards but it's a great dependable fun vehicle to drive and I get 30 mpg doing my usual driving, I'll get 36 mpg for long trips at 75-80 mph. Unrefined describes the first vehicle I drove, my parents 1958 Oldsmobile 88, no power anything! It was a bear to drive, it built your arm and leg muscles up
Whimsey
I'm loving my '99 ZX2 S/R. I dyno'd it last week and it was pushing 167hp at the wheels. Basic bolt ons like header, premium fuel tune/timing advance, cat delete, etc.
Standard Zetecs can benefit from a few tweaks, like unplugging the knock sensor and putting a less restrictive intake on it.
I've always used 5w30 on mine. Ford back-spec'd the Zetec for 5w20 back in '06 or '07. I ran it once- when a dealer filled it without my permission- and it rattled like crazy and chattered like some mechanical teeth.
Standard Zetecs can benefit from a few tweaks, like unplugging the knock sensor and putting a less restrictive intake on it.
I've always used 5w30 on mine. Ford back-spec'd the Zetec for 5w20 back in '06 or '07. I ran it once- when a dealer filled it without my permission- and it rattled like crazy and chattered like some mechanical teeth.
I'd say the 2 are pretty similar. I used edge gold 5w30 and BC 0w30 in back to back OCI's for 10k miles. The edge gold was slightly better in my application. You can search my posts to see it. The moly was high on both because I added it.
Biron,
Won't unplugging the knock sensor cause issues? I use 91 octane fuel and with the tune it idles about 28*, floored 11*, and cruising 16.5-18*. This according to my phone and torque pro. How will this improve, or do I misunderstand it?
Won't unplugging the knock sensor cause issues? I use 91 octane fuel and with the tune it idles about 28*, floored 11*, and cruising 16.5-18*. This according to my phone and torque pro. How will this improve, or do I misunderstand it?
Originally Posted By: Whimsey
Originally Posted By: Syntheticuser
Mine is an 02' it's been a great car. A blower motor and resistor (oem Motorcraft) from Rock Auto, KYB quick struts, Motor mounts, tie rods, ball joints ....the rest has been fluid, filter and rubber maintenance. Work is done by me. So labor is cheap.
It's my DD, the truck stays parked in the barn unless I need to pull a trailer.
I could write a check for a new one, but I don't see the need....well maybe for a stick.
I feel the same about my 1996 Zetec Contour. It has about 113,000 miles on it, barely broken in
. I did replace the rear struts twice, and the brakes once. The blower motor resister was replaced preemptively by the dealer for free. Other than that it has only had regular maintenance done by me mostly. I ordered this car new in Sept 1995 with the 5 speed manual transmission and wide aluminum tire rims that came with the wide 205-60-15 tires. This car is my "poor mans" BMW. It's a blast to drive and handles great, I love winding the Zetec out
. It's a keeper!
Whimsey
I had the 95 with the Duratec engine, it started falling apart after about 90k and I got rid of it, alternator went, exhaust leaks, wiring warranty, etc. It only lasted 8 years for me. A poor man's BMW is just a used one. Got a used 2011 Mercedes E-350 for around 15k last year. Now that's a blast to drive. Too many options to keep track of.
Originally Posted By: Syntheticuser
Mine is an 02' it's been a great car. A blower motor and resistor (oem Motorcraft) from Rock Auto, KYB quick struts, Motor mounts, tie rods, ball joints ....the rest has been fluid, filter and rubber maintenance. Work is done by me. So labor is cheap.
It's my DD, the truck stays parked in the barn unless I need to pull a trailer.
I could write a check for a new one, but I don't see the need....well maybe for a stick.
I feel the same about my 1996 Zetec Contour. It has about 113,000 miles on it, barely broken in
Whimsey
I had the 95 with the Duratec engine, it started falling apart after about 90k and I got rid of it, alternator went, exhaust leaks, wiring warranty, etc. It only lasted 8 years for me. A poor man's BMW is just a used one. Got a used 2011 Mercedes E-350 for around 15k last year. Now that's a blast to drive. Too many options to keep track of.
Biron,
Won't unplugging the knock sensor cause issues? I use 91 octane fuel and with the tune it idles about 28*, floored 11*, and cruising 16.5-18*. This according to my phone and torque pro. How will this improve, or do I misunderstand it?
Won't unplugging the knock sensor cause issues? I use 91 octane fuel and with the tune it idles about 28*, floored 11*, and cruising 16.5-18*. This according to my phone and torque pro. How will this improve, or do I misunderstand it?
Originally Posted By: Syntheticuser
Biron,
Won't unplugging the knock sensor cause issues? I use 91 octane fuel and with the tune it idles about 28*, floored 11*, and cruising 16.5-18*. This according to my phone and torque pro. How will this improve, or do I misunderstand it?
The knock sensor on the Zetecs were overly sensitive from the factory, and are notorious for retarding timing under 6,000 rpm, anywhere from 3-11 degrees. The sensor picks up minute vibrations and misreads them as a knock and starts pulling timing, and the faster you're tying to go, the more timing gets pulled.
Unplugging the KS is a pretty well known fix for sluggish acceleration, and the only negative after effects that have been reported were that some users had to run premium gas because their engines were pinging from the timing advance. That will be no problem to you since you're already running 91.
I first learned of this trick back in 2003 when my dealer recommended it. I was tired of the delayed acceleration from a dead stop. I don't have to do it on my S/R because the knock sensor was disabled by the PCM on that model.
The only circumstance I would recommend not doing that mod for would be if you were running nitrous. But then again, there's a few people over at TeamZX2 with wet kits that have unplugged their knock sensors to no issue. But I wouldn't risk it.
On my old 2003, it was a night and day difference. Like a +7hp difference on the dyno. It wasn't just a warm fuzzy seat of the pants type deal; running premium on top of it gives a good gain in most cases.
May I ask what tune you're running, and what you used to program it?
Biron,
Won't unplugging the knock sensor cause issues? I use 91 octane fuel and with the tune it idles about 28*, floored 11*, and cruising 16.5-18*. This according to my phone and torque pro. How will this improve, or do I misunderstand it?
The knock sensor on the Zetecs were overly sensitive from the factory, and are notorious for retarding timing under 6,000 rpm, anywhere from 3-11 degrees. The sensor picks up minute vibrations and misreads them as a knock and starts pulling timing, and the faster you're tying to go, the more timing gets pulled.
Unplugging the KS is a pretty well known fix for sluggish acceleration, and the only negative after effects that have been reported were that some users had to run premium gas because their engines were pinging from the timing advance. That will be no problem to you since you're already running 91.
I first learned of this trick back in 2003 when my dealer recommended it. I was tired of the delayed acceleration from a dead stop. I don't have to do it on my S/R because the knock sensor was disabled by the PCM on that model.
The only circumstance I would recommend not doing that mod for would be if you were running nitrous. But then again, there's a few people over at TeamZX2 with wet kits that have unplugged their knock sensors to no issue. But I wouldn't risk it.
On my old 2003, it was a night and day difference. Like a +7hp difference on the dyno. It wasn't just a warm fuzzy seat of the pants type deal; running premium on top of it gives a good gain in most cases.
May I ask what tune you're running, and what you used to program it?
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