Cartridge oil filter - high mileage

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Hi everyone, First time posting, although I've been lurking for quite a while. I'm looking for opinions on cartridge type filters.

I have a 2008 Mazda3 (2.3L) with about 150k km. It takes the cartridge oil filter, not the spin-on. I currently use OEM Mazda filters. I put in 5w20 in the summer, 0w20 in the winter, MotoMaster formula 1 synthetic, which is reportedly made by Shell. I typically change the oil every 8-10k km. I bought the car about a year ago, and I don't know much of the car's history, but it doesn't burn oil, and is in good shape. My daily commute is around 16 km each way, and I usually have a 3 km strech at highway speeds, and am 8 km stretch at 80-90 km/h. I don't always take the car in the summer, but it's at least once a week.

I'm considering switching to an extended drain oil (either Castol Edge extended performance, or M1 extended performance), and was wondering what kind of filter you guys would recommend, so that I ideally don't have to change the filter halfway through the OCI.

Here's a list of filters that is available locally to me, or from amazon.ca

Fram Ultra Synthetic (reg price $17 (CAD), can find on sale around $14)
Napa Platinum ($28)
Premium Guard Extended Performance Oil Filter ($28)
Bosch D3314 Distance Plus High Performance Oil Filter ($24)
Mobil 1 Extended Performance Oil Filter ($50 for 2)
WIX XP Oil Filter ($21)
Ecogard Synthetic+ Oil Filter ($18)


If I changed the filter halway through the OCI:

Mazda OEM Filter (~$13)
Napa Gold ($15)

Thanks!
 
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How far are you looking to extend your OCI?

How long is does it take you to drive that 16KM?

Would seem like to me that engine is barely getting warmed up friend. Do you take any longer trips at least once per week?

Off the bat, there are many fine filters on their.. I'd take the Ultra, Bosch D, or Wix.
 
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I think any of those would work as long as you have a clean engine. I used to do 13k mike oil changes on my 2010 Mazda 3 with a 2.0 with Mobil 1 EP and filter. You could also if they’re still available get the adapter to make your filter a spin on filter like the 2.0. I know a lot of guys did that to keep the changes easier and use cheaper filters.
 
If your OCIs are 8-10k kms, there is no need for premium filters. If OEM has worked for you, there isn't a compelling reason to change it for something that's more expensive with little to nothing to gain out of it.

MotoMaster Formula 1 Synthetic is now made by CITGO. The 0W-20 was made by Wakefield, but I am hearing those jugs will eventually be replaced with those made by CITGO.

If your MMF1 Synthetic jugs resembles the conventional red jugs, then what you have is older inventory made by Shell.
 
Is the motorcraft filter an option for you? It's really cheap on amazon. Not a premium filter....but an option if you want to save some cash.

Don't drop the filter housing either...I broke mine trying to remove the o rings.
 
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If your OCIs are 8-10k kms, there is no need for premium filters.

I'd like to extend my OCI to 20k km (20 megametres?). I'm planning on switching to an "extended performance" oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Timo325

How far are you looking to extend your OCI?


I'm thinking once a year, fewer than 20,000 km.

Quote:
How long is does it take you to drive that 16KM?

Half an hour-ish... On the way back from work I pick the kids up from daycare, so the return trip is closer to 30 km, and involves 35 minutes of driving, a 10 minute break, then 10 minutes of driving.

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Would seem like to me that engine is barely getting warmed up friend. Do you take any longer trips at least once per week?

My coolant is getting to 90C within 5 minutes or so, maybe 10 minutes in the winter. On the way back from work I pick the kids up from daycare, so the return trip is closer to 30 km. While at work I park in an indoor lot, so the coolant will be up to operating temp within 5 minutes on the return trip no matter what. How long of a trip would be required? I perceive that to be a long trip for a commute, but I guess we all have our perspective on things.


Originally Posted By: E150GT
You could also if they’re still available get the adapter to make your filter a spin on filter like the 2.0. I know a lot of guys did that to keep the changes easier and use cheaper filters.


The "adapter" is actually the filter housing from the 2.0. The conversion involves removing the factory filter housing for the 2.3 and putting on the filter housing for the 2.0. That part is still available. I don't find it difficult to change the cartridge filter, although there are fewer options for filters. I'm looking to save myself work, and I'm not looking forward to removing bolts that are seized after 10 years of exposure to salt etc.
 
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Any decent filter will last longer than a safe oil change interval, if your engine is in good shape.

Why complicate things needlessly by converting to spin-on? When spin-ons become obsolescent in a few years, they'll cost more than the much cheaper-to-make cartridges.
 
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