Carnuba Wax

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I never used Carnuba Wax.....I know it doesn't last very long but is it worth using and what kind do you guys like.
 
I've moved on to the Polymer type protestants like NuFinish, Turtle wax etc. Lasts much longer, easier to use and most offer good UV protection. Ed
 
The general rule of thumb is Carnuba will provide the best gloss and shine but not last much more than a few months. The newer polymer type of sealants are easier to use and last much longer with some brands claiming a full year but they don't have the same shine or gloss as Carnuba. Me? I usually use a Griots polymer sealant and top it with a coat of his carnuba wax and get the best of both worlds. I must add that the latest polymer sealants I've used (Griots is just one) I was impressed with the easy wipe on/off and the shine was deep and glossy.
 
I still use Carnauba wax on my car from time to time.. but most of the time, it's either a straight synthetic (sealant), or a hybrid.

If you want to go with a Carnauba based wax, then your best bet is to use something like Collinite #845 which is Carnauba based, but fortified with other chemicals. Incredible shine, protection, and durability.
 
Caranuba wax works great on wood floors..but not much else. I'm not being sarcastic, either.

Technology has advanced waxes in much the same way it has oils. Caranuba in a blend is fine...although quaint, there are better formulations out there that last longer and provide better shine and color depth, like Megs or Mother's.
 
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Wolfgang deep gloss sealant is a good brand which lasts far longer then traditional waxes. It's generally considered to be on par with most decent carnauba looks wise.

It's some what pricy tho.

Pinnacle liquid souveran is also a good wax as well but I think it's more of a blend. P21S wax also seems to get a lot of praise as well.
 
Too many sweeping statements made, here.

The last real world test I saw of Collinite showed it to be better than some polymers and only slightly below the average durability for polymers and offered the best value for money.

Also certain combinations of polish and wax/sealer work better than others, which can skew things.

What makes a massive difference is how you maintain your bodywork in between.

I currently use Collinite and at the time of purchase offered the best durability for the money and effort required. What I pick next time depends on durability VS cost VS effort.
 
Just asking here. To get the best of both worlds, would it be a good idea to apply a carnuba wax and then a sealer on top? Or would this sequence make one, or both, counter-productive and a waste of time. The only polymer I've ever used was Nufinish, and that's been quite a while ago. I liked the shine but hated it's affect on plastic trim.
 
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A sealant would be applied to the paint after polishing. Paint should be cleaned with diluted alcohol to remove any oils in the polish. Then apply the sealant. Wax on top of a sealant may not last very long.
 
Originally Posted By: bugeye
A sealant would be applied to the paint after polishing. Paint should be cleaned with diluted alcohol to remove any oils in the polish. Then apply the sealant. Wax on top of a sealant may not last very long.


So sealant on top of carnuba wax wouldn't be a good idea then? I would be wasting time? Again, just asking because I don't know. Sure not looking to waste my time if it's not a good idea.
 
Originally Posted By: bugeye
A sealant would be applied to the paint after polishing. Paint should be cleaned with diluted alcohol to remove any oils in the polish. Then apply the sealant. Wax on top of a sealant may not last very long.


I've never heard of that. Polishes often (partially) fill scratches, alcohol washes the filler out. If the polish is leaving oils behind, then its a poor product IMHO.
 
Originally Posted By: Sierra048

So sealant on top of carnuba wax wouldn't be a good idea then?


Correct. The idea is that the carnuba will fail more quickly, breaking down and taking the longer lasting sealant with it.

If you are going to use both a sealant and a wax, it's best to apply the sealant, let it cure. Then add a top coat of wax that has ZERO cleaners in it. When I top my sealant with a wax, I always use Collinite #915
 
Originally Posted By: Phishin
Originally Posted By: Sierra048

So sealant on top of carnuba wax wouldn't be a good idea then?


Correct. The idea is that the carnuba will fail more quickly, breaking down and taking the longer lasting sealant with it.

If you are going to use both a sealant and a wax, it's best to apply the sealant, let it cure. Then add a top coat of wax that has ZERO cleaners in it. When I top my sealant with a wax, I always use Collinite #915


Just to add, some sealants are know to streak or blemish on top of some waxes.
 
Good to know. I think when my current stock of wax is used up I might change my regiment and incorporate some type of sealer. As much as I despise the stains left by Nufinish, I might take my time and maybe even tape up my trim like I did for my last wax with Mcguires Carnuba Wax and give it another try.
 
Try something other than NuFinish - you will see better shine and no harm to trim pieces. I personally cannot stand NuFinish. It may last long but it is only marginal at cleaning and leaving a good glossy shine. There are much better and more advanced sealants available now. NuFinish is pretty much been passed by.
 
Duragloss #101 is similar to NuFinish but it doesn't stain trim, about $11, available on Amazon, doesn't powder off when removing, can be applied in the sun, durable.

www.duragloss.com
 
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Ok. I need some help here.

So if I'm understanding correctly, I should use a polish, then a sealant. Would a cleaner wax be the same as a polish? The only polish I have handy is Turtle Wax Polish. Not a high end name but it should suffice, right? That leaves a sealant. Thanks for the Duragloss recommendation. I'll check that one out. Any others that are cost friendly? How much protection and how long will it last if a sealant is used. I really like the sheen after I use the carnuba wax on my truck. It just doesn't last that long since we moved and my truck is no longer garaged. I enjoy maintaining our vehicles but constantly applying the carnuba is becoming tiresome and time-consuming.
 
Do you have the equipment to do a full machine polish or is this to be done by hand. Polishing by hand is not only difficult it yields little to no results. The machine is king for the polishing step.

Other Duragloss products to consider are #501 and #105. #501 is heavy with chemical paint cleaner with some sealant.

#105 is heavy on sealant with a small amount of paint cleaner. Both are called "polish" by Duragloss for some inane reason. Either can be applied & removed by hand, easy peasy providing you apply them thin.
 
Originally Posted By: Sierra048
So if I'm understanding correctly, I should use a polish, then a sealant. Would a cleaner wax be the same as a polish? The only polish I have handy is Turtle Wax Polish. Not a high end name but it should suffice, right? That leaves a sealant.


I haven't had good results with Turtle Wax so I'm biased against them. Nothing worse than paying for the product and going over an entire car with it and getting mediocre results. No thanks.

Wash, clay using some of the fine grade clay on Amazon for a cheap price. After claying spray the car with a combination of rubbing alcohol and water. Wipe with a plush microfiber, this step is important and called an IPA wipe down. That way the sealant can bond to the paint better.

The DG #101 that I mentioned is a true polish that also contains a sealant at the same time. If you want an amped up version of the #101 they also sell a Swirl Mark Remover that also contains a sealant. It just has more polish in it than the #101 to help get rid of the spider webbing you see in the paint.

Walmart has a cheapie polisher that does a good job of spreading the polish in a nice uniform manner. Then you switch the bonnets to a microfiber one and remove the product. The machine does all the work instead of your arms and it's only $25. This machine isn't anything like what the professionals use which can cost hundreds but this is a great alternative to waxing by hand. It's actually enjoyable.

Put the truck in a garage so the sealant can cure for 24 hours which will increase the durability. Then you can apply the carnuba wax for shine after 24 hours. I just did this routine for two cars and will do this once a year.
 
No machines. All by hand. I just clayed both vehicles this Spring.

SatinSilver, since I just clayed, would the alcohol wipe down and then sealant be the way to go forward? I did wax both the first of June. Would the Duragloss #101 mentioned earlier be the right sealant to use? Thanks for the help.
 
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