Cardboard in front radiator, 2008 Odissey

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Originally Posted By: bigbird_1
Originally Posted By: TedT
I don't know what you call it but there is a plastic version of corrugated cardboard. It's used for temp. outdoor signs and displays. Coke and Pepsi use these along with others. It works great for blocking rads.


It's called Coroplast. It won't absorb water and rot out like cardboard will.

I know them, that is what I used last winter.
I did the stupid mistake to get rid of it.

Now, I have to wait election time again
wink.gif
. That is what they use and they don't even take the gutts to remove them afterwards, so it is ours!
 
Originally Posted By: calvin1
That still sounds like the thermostat is not working. If it were working it would be clamped shut below ~90C and the radiator would be effectively out of the circuit whether it was blocked off or not. It sounds like it isn't fully closing.

All the makers do arctic testing now to make sure over-cooling isn't a problem.


While I'm not 100% sure either way, I kind of agree with this. The t-stat doesn't need to be stuck fully open to be malfunctioning. It could be "lazy", or leaky - not allowing full closure. If you're not up to the t-stat rated temperature after 10 minutes of driving I'd start looking for a problem unless you drive around with the interior heaters on full hot and full fan all the time.
 
This is hardly comparable to an HD diesel application.

It's a gasser engine driven in a semi cold weather, in city traffic, there should be absolutely no need to block the radiator. If OP lived in a place that constantly got -30-40C temps, then yes, but Montreal doesn't get that cold.

On the other hand, this is just IMO, OP will do as he pleases.
 
On a 2008 vehicle? I did it in 1999 but it was on a 1983 vehicle!! Your vehicle is probably still under warranty. Get it fixed correctly.

- Vikas
 
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Originally Posted By: bigbird_1
Originally Posted By: TedT
I don't know what you call it but there is a plastic version of corrugated cardboard. It's used for temp. outdoor signs and displays. Coke and Pepsi use these along with others. It works great for blocking rads.


It's called Coroplast. It won't absorb water and rot out like cardboard will.

Or Corex. Different manufacturer. You can get a scrap piece in any sign shop.
 
On another hand, for the last two weeks I've been driving to work in double digit subzero and single digit temperatures. Both 4 cyl Kia and 6 cyl Isuzu take longer to warm up, but I still do not need to use any cardboard (never have in my 20 years in AK). Isuzu has automatic AC that will not send any heat in to the cabin until the engine is at the operating temperature. It still works fine. I warm up my cars for 10-15 minutes before driving off. Isuzu has a block heater, and it does help with that big engine to get up to temp faster.

The bottom line, warm you your car before you drive off. If you decided to block the radiator, DO NOT BLOCK THE AIRFLOW. Tape the cardboard behind the grill, not between the AC condenser and radiator. Better yet, get a proper winter front:
http://www.amazon.com/CAR-TRUCK-WINTER-F...1981&sr=1-2
 
I'm looking for this info also, re: where to put the cardboard. I have a "lazy" thermostat (lazy open) on my 93 altima that I'm looking for a temporary solution until I can replace it. AC doesn't work anymore, so I don't care about it's radiator.

The general feeling I'm getting from this, and other threads - is don't do it, unless you seriously know what you are doing, and to put it in front of the AC radiator - immediately behind the grill.
 
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I'm also reading to cut a hole in the cardboard for when the fan kicks in that it has some place to draw air from.
 
YES! This is critical if an engine driven fan. The fan can wobble or vibrate with the altered airflow.

I'm sure it's not good for electric fans either.

A new 'stat is a cheap fix for this, though.
 
Im running about 80% blocked at the moment. My drive is just too short. I get to the 130F the automatic temperature control looks for to turn on the heater 1/2mile from work now instead of when I pull in to the parking spot.
 
It bears mentioning that some people forget to remove the cardboard when spring comes around. They then wonder why their car is overheating.
 
Doesn't sound to me like there's really any problem other than an active imagination and/or too much time on your hands.
 
+1. This is a 2008, I assume still under warranty. Instead of messing with cardboard and/or old election signs, just go to the dealer and tell them you're not getting enough heat.

Sounds like a lazy thermostat or one that is not closing property. Went through this with my wife's 2000 VW New Beetle. In the city, during the winter, I would hit 190, on the highway it would drop to 170. When I pulled the old one out, I could see it was slightly open. With a new one in, 190 all the time.

That other 'rad' in front of the engine cooling radiator is officially called the A/C condenser. On a hybrid (Toyota/Lexus anyway) there is yet another one in front of the A/C condenser. That one is a radiator for the inverter coolant.
 
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There should be no need to use cardboard on a modern vehicle. Yes, in extreme cold, the heater core can remove more heat than the engine can generate under idle/low load conditions. Once on the highway, you should have plenty of heat.

Last week Friday it got -15F here, and I drove 40 miles that night. My car took a little longer to warm up, but I had plenty of heat while driving down the highway.

I would get your Odyssey checked out.
 
I'll side with the only guy that says the engine is not retaining enough heat due to engine materials.

Our '07 Outlander (and others I've read on forums..mainly from northern states and canada) will have a similar effect. At idle, temps will drop and you can feel the heat out of the vents chill a bit. Once you give the gas, then temps start to rise. The 3.0L used in the N.A. Outlander is an all aluminum block & heads. Multiple Outlander owners have gone to the dealership, and all they do is flash the computer to raise the idle up 100rpm.
 
Originally Posted By: CErnst
I'll side with the only guy that says the engine is not retaining enough heat due to engine materials.


It may be a factor, but the other common engine material (iron) is also an excellent conductor of heat - it just weighs a lot more. I'm not sure how much of a difference Al vs. Fe would make to this scenario.
 
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