Carbon removal...over the counter products?

[HammerDown]

Any feedback if there's anything on the shelves that (actually) remove carbon on intake valves and combustion chamber/piston tops? >(81 carb equipped Cotvette)
I'm kinda old school in that my thoughts are...it must be physically removed.

I looked into at Techron and MMO

Also, just purchase a NEW Toyota Corolla-S 1.8 2,500 miles on it now. should I be thinking about adding anything to the fuel system...even with all the detergent fuels on the market?

thanks for any feedback.

 

[OilyWater]

Water. It will work just as well, if not better than, anything you can buy in a can for six bucks. Spray a mist into your intake while the engine is at a fast idle. Be careful not to put in too much or you can hydrolock the engine, but that's nearly impossible if you just spray a mist into the intake.

The water hits the carbon and rapidly changes it's temperature, causing it to flake off. It also steam cleans everything in it's path.

 

[unDummy]

Corolla, all it needs is any bottle of FI cleaner 3-4 times a year, especially if not using a toptier gasoline.

For the Vette, steam cleaning will work great for CC/piston cleaning. But, I haven't seen any proof that it will clean the intake track and valves from gummy builup which will need a solvent.
But, carb'd motors will benefit from regular per tank dosing as prevention. There are many UCL/FI products that be be used for per tank low dosage that are cost effective: MMO, Lucas, Redline, FP, Lubri-gas, Neutra, SoyUltra, Seafoam,......

 

[HammerDown]

"water"...I remember hearing about that back in the 70's and 80's. But I also recal hearing about chunks of carbon getting stuck between a valve and seat, causing a bent valve...no?

(not saying this would happen all the time, but could there be a good chance of it)

PS (UCL/FI)...?

 

[oilpan49]

I've used the water treatment several times on my Ranger and on our Geo. I like to use distilled water to ensure no minerals or abrasive foriegn matter get into the engine. I've asked myself about using FP sucked through the engine. I've never tried it before but being a cleaner and lube that it is, it might be just as effective if not better than water, who knows??

The water treatment has worked great for me, but you need to be patient. To each his own,,,,op

 

[chenobylite]

I use distilled water fed into the manifold via basketball inflation needle while on the highway. Works like a charm and as noted, will steam clean everything right back to the tailpipe. Don't get too crazy with it though, a quart or so should be enough to do the job.

 

[HammerDown]

"I use distilled water fed into the manifold via basketball inflation needle while on the highway. Works like a charm and as noted, will steam clean everything right back to the tailpipe. Don't get too crazy with it though, a quart or so should be enough to do the job. "

How the ****...

Sounds like a great idea, Details man details

 

[OilyWater]

quote:

---

But I also recal hearing about chunks of carbon getting stuck between a valve and seat, causing a bent valve...no?

---

I guess that's possible, but I've never heard of it happening before. Water wouldn't be any more likely to cause that than any other chemical though.

 

[Shaman]

Maybe just me, but just attach the vacuum hose you are using, run it to the cabin, start the car, drive to the highway, shove basketball needle into water, enjoy not having to regulate throttle. Just make sure that the hose that you are connected to does not need to be in use, or have anything sharp attached near it.

 

[chenobylite]

Yep that's it 'xactly. What Shaman said. The needle just limts the flow. I used to take the needle out every few minutes or so until the engine recovered but later crushed the tip down a bit to prevent bogging and allowed it to sip the entire quart or two.

That was my old method. These days my head lamp washer system handles the task. It's separate from the windshield washers and comes stock with a timer from the factory. Every time I push the dash button it injects 10 seconds worth of whatever I've put in the tank into the manifold. A much better use for it than washing head lamps me thinks

 

[Big Jim]

"water"...I remember hearing about that back in the 70's and 80's. But I also recal hearing about chunks of carbon getting stuck between a valve and seat, causing a bent valve...no?

(not saying this would happen all the time, but could there be a good chance of it)

Bent valve? No. Burned valve from something getting between the valve and the seat? Conceivable, but highly unlikely.

When I worked as tune tech in the 70's I would do a decarbon frequently. My favorite cleaner was Ford Combustion Chamber Cleaner. Either in a pour can or a spray can. I also used water a lot, but something I preferred to water was hot water mixed 50/50 with ATF. I never had a problem with valve damage of any kind from doing a decarbon. If anything, it would improve the odds in your favor by getting the carbon out of the way. I actually remember one ocassion that I was diagnosing an engine miss. I found a cylinder with low compression. I squirted some ATF into the hole to do a wet compression test to determing if it was likely a valve problem or a ring/piston problem. The ATF must have washed the carbon off the valve face and seat before it had actually burned because the compression came up and when the spark plug was reinstalled the miss was gone.

 

[HammerDown]

So you fellas are saying to (tap into) a vacuum port off the intake manifold (don't think I have one on my 81 Vette)...or...maybe a vacuum port off the carb, run a vacuum hose into the vehicle with a football needle attached to it and sitting in a qt or so of water?

Thanks for the feedback, think I'll try this asap.

 

[Shaman]

If you are carb, you can try spraying said product into the carb.

 

[HammerDown]

"If you are carb, you can try spraying said product into the carb. "

Think I should try the ATF w/water or just water.
What I'll do is hold the rpm at 2500 and mist it down the carb...about a qt or so.
Thanks for any other feedback.

 

[Gary Allan]

You should have a centrally located PCV hose. I don't think the needle thingy is needed ..but I don't have any reason to object to it. Vacuum is a somewhat self regulating induction method. As long as liquid cannot siphon, I don't think that you can hydrolock an engine ..at least withiin the confines of our hose sizes. Anything bigger ..and I still doubt that you can draw enough volume to do it

just buy a longer lenght of hose that will slip inside of you PCV hose ..or get a longer PCV hose. Warm engine (a long drive would be preferred) and then turn off engine. Place container on the ground ..place longer hose in container. Start engine ...rev as high as you please (or in the case of water = keep it running). When engine finishes inducing the agent ..shut off engine. If you intend to "let it sit/soak" ..refill container. The stuff can't siphon uphill ..so no worries if you want to shut it off "mid cycle".

I like to do it while going down the road under load. But I imagine this may not be something you want to do in your Vette.

 

[Sid]

I've heard of a Water and Vinegar solution doing an excellent job. I've also used AMSOIL Power Foam and it did an excellent job too.

 

[mdocod]

i second the water option...

 

[HammerDown]

Uh...am I suppose to see white smoke out the tail pipe and maybe hear some popping and crackling noises at the carb?
Because nothing really happened when the engine in-jested the water at 2000 rpm

 

[unDummy]

You shouldn't really see anything. If you have catalytics, they might glow a little(if dark enough out).

How much did you use? How did you add it?

 

[Dr. T]

Will water remove carbon from valves, valve guides and stems as well?? Or is just a combustion chamber cleaner?