Car won't start without throttle when cold

[Shaman]

For the last few days, the car has been difficult to start. I used to use the remote start, but it just cranks now. I have to get into the car, and give it some throttle then start it. If I don't keep my foot on the gas about 15% for the first minute or two, even in gear, the car dies. IAC is about 10 months old, fuel is higher than normal octane. Battery shows 11.6 when cranking, and 13.8 to 14something when running. 12.6 with the car off. After the minute or two of dying, there is no problem driving the car. It's a 1999, so not JOBD yet. No engine light. I will disconnect the battery this afternoon for a while.

Thoughts?

 

[rjacket]

My car started easier after cleaning the throttle body. Worth doing regardless of whether that's the issue.

 

[ltslimjim]

Cleaning the TB on my Civic has helped some, but my issues are with my IACV sticking as well. So, I may have to remove it to check the gasket or replace it, and manually clean it removed from the vehicle, then remount.

Clean your throttle body, check the linkage to the throttle body/plate so that nothing is keeping it shut or obstructed in any way.

Otherwise, could this be a pressure regulator issue or a failing battery(sounds like an automatic though)?

I had a lady recently have the spring fail while driving on the throttle linkage, she drives a 2000 Infiniti QX4 w/ 4WD. This caused the vehicle to continue to accelerate and she didn't know what to do. Could have died, she somehow managed to get home, the details are fuzzy on what she told me on how that happened...

I just started servicing her vehicle, mind you. So, the next time I saw her, after AAA helped her tow home and an insurance person/mechanic came to fix the broken spring...I'm the first person to 'finally' look at the throttle body/plate. It was disgusting. Covered in thick/black grime, a nice sticky layer of goo all on the backside of the plate itself and down the throttle body a good amount washed out as I sprayed in the TB cleaner.

So yeah, check your throttle body if applicable! Might save someones life. I wish I had gotten on that area for this lady sooner. I have only seen her 3 times in 6 months, the car has over 150,000 miles. No one else caught this build up before I start servicing her vehicle? I'm doing that first thing on any car I touch from now on!

 

[Quest]

Hey Shaman!

Is your move still on "vane" type of air metering? Also: have you check your fuel rail pressure before your cold start?

This is probably fuel-related.

ja ne!

Q.

 

[bladecutter]

When was the last time you checked the spark plugs, or the valve adjustment?

BC.

 

[mechtech2]

Sounds like a lack of fuel.
Filter or pump need checking.
Could be lack of fuel from a vacuum or intake leak, also.

 

[Shaman]

Quest, it is MAP/IAT metering only, and the IAT is before the turbo, for whatever reason. Spark plugs were changed last year, and no valve adjustment has been done.

Itsslimjim, the throttle moves freely when warm. I probably need to check the blade, because it seems to stick at first startup. I tightened the cable last year to get the slack out. Don't know if that means anything.

Mechtech2, filter is in the tank from what I can tell(no manual, not available in English). Vacuum has actually increased in the last few months, so says the vac/boost gauge. I was usually at -5 to -6 psi at idle, and I am now down to -8 psi.

It seems to be temperature sensitive. It didn't freeze last night, and the car seemed to be fine and not require throttle. I also got gas last night, so I can't 100% link it to temp per say. The low idle has been happening for a while now that I think about it, I guess it has just gotten worse(lower).

I will take a peek in the throttle body if it doesn't snow tomorrow and see what I can see. Then give it a good spray down. I don't have access to a new gasket, so I don't know if I will try to disassemble anything.

 

[ltslimjim]

^That's fine. I figured if you tightened the throttle cable, with no slack so that as soon as you press the gas pedal the cable moves visibly under the hood without slack...if anything would keep it from sticking from a 'slack' condition. Try to keep the plate open with one hand, and with a shop rag(something that wont disintegrate) wipe the plate itself well after spraying in. You could also spray in while the vehicle is running and open the throttle enough to spray towards the IACV.

If you spray in too much, it will need more acceleration upon restart as the cylinders will be flooded, which is why I spray in while running initially so some is expelled for the small amount needed after the engine is off for final 'clean up'.

Check all vacuum hoses for tears/cracks/holes.

 

[Shaman]

I only worry about losing another IAC. It's mounted at the bottom of the TB ([censored]), and I worry about stuff settling at the lowest point. Guess I will just have to try. Will check the vacuum lines, but I have to wonder if they are bad when the vaccum had gotten better.

 

[ltslimjim]

^Well, if the IACV is sticking closed, wouldn't that be like 1 less vacuum leak? ...idk. may be off base there.

 

[mechtech2]

When she won't start, spray starting fluid in the intake to see if she pops.
If she does so , you know it's a lack of fuel thing.

 

[Shaman]

Pulled off the water/meth hose, and it was sticky. Stopped spraying, and the problem has gone away. Gonna pull the nozzle out and spray some carb cleaner through the intake to make sure it's cleaned up, and leave the meth kit off until summer when I will actually have time to troubleshoot, and the extra cooling is beneficial

 

[mechtech2]

You didn't think it was important to tell us about squirting water in the engine while cranking??!!

 

[ltslimjim]

^This.

Also, makes me think it's a reason why my IACV is acting up, I re-oiled my K&N air filter this spring and could have gotten into the IM/TB at least.

 

[SHOZ]

The IAC should be the only source of air when you are trying to start. One trick I use to do on mechanical TBs is to open the throttle plate a bit.

With the engine warm and running, screw throttle plate in until the rpm is around 1500.

Then disconnect the IAC connector.

Then turn throttle stop screw out until the idle was around 400 rpm.

Then disconnect battery and go though whatever idle learning your brand of ECU uses.

 

[Shaman]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
You didn't think it was important to tell us about squirting water in the engine while cranking??!!


I didn't think to tell you about it because it doesn't spray until at least 4 minutes after I put it in D and go. It is off when I start the car, turned on when I get onto higher speed roads, and then turned off 3-4 minutes before I turn off the car.