I'm using full synthetic mobil 1 0w30 in the cold winter months for better start ups. Going back to normal 10w30 in summer or may just stay at 0w30. Has anyone used 0w20 or 5w20 in a car that calls for 10w30.
Car Takes 10w/30 Using 0W/30 Winter. How About?
- Thread starter Topo
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You're fine. Oil is always too thick when cold so the more you run the 0w30 the better.
I thinking was was good to go too. I think I should stick a little bit thicker oil at operating temp..So I won't experiment with 0w20 or 5w20..
gathermewool
Site Donor 2025
The second number is the one you need to worry about, since it's the thinnest the engine will see it when fully warmed up. Also, every one here knows that Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30 is "fully" synthetic. Actually, all 0W's are "fully" synthetic.
I know some have run 20 weight where 30 weight is called for (and not back-spec'd to 20 weight,) but I wouldn't recommend it. There's really no benefit, and while the chance of causing accelerated wear and possible early failure is probably small, it just isn't worth the risk.
I know some have run 20 weight where 30 weight is called for (and not back-spec'd to 20 weight,) but I wouldn't recommend it. There's really no benefit, and while the chance of causing accelerated wear and possible early failure is probably small, it just isn't worth the risk.
With all the oil choices we have today I would stick with 0-30, however in 1978 when I first started using Mobil 1 oils the only wt they had was 5-20. My pick up called for 10-40 and I had no problems with the 5-20 except tyhe engine uesd a little more oil. Use the 0-30 year round.
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Originally Posted By: Topo
I'm using full synthetic mobil 1 0w30 in the cold winter months for better start ups. Going back to normal 10w30 in summer or may just stay at 0w30. Has anyone used 0w20 or 5w20 in a car that calls for 10w30.
My E430 calls for Mobil 1 0W40, or at minimum synthetic oil with HTHS 3.5 or higher, I had been using xW20 since 2008.
I'm using full synthetic mobil 1 0w30 in the cold winter months for better start ups. Going back to normal 10w30 in summer or may just stay at 0w30. Has anyone used 0w20 or 5w20 in a car that calls for 10w30.
My E430 calls for Mobil 1 0W40, or at minimum synthetic oil with HTHS 3.5 or higher, I had been using xW20 since 2008.
Originally Posted By: Topo
I'm using full synthetic mobil 1 0w30 in the cold winter months for better start ups. Going back to normal 10w30 in summer or may just stay at 0w30. Has anyone used 0w20 or 5w20 in a car that calls for 10w30.
What vehicle are you driving that calls for 10w30 ??
I'm using full synthetic mobil 1 0w30 in the cold winter months for better start ups. Going back to normal 10w30 in summer or may just stay at 0w30. Has anyone used 0w20 or 5w20 in a car that calls for 10w30.
What vehicle are you driving that calls for 10w30 ??
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: Topo
I'm using full synthetic mobil 1 0w30 in the cold winter months for better start ups. Going back to normal 10w30 in summer or may just stay at 0w30. Has anyone used 0w20 or 5w20 in a car that calls for 10w30.
My E430 calls for Mobil 1 0W40, or at minimum synthetic oil with HTHS 3.5 or higher, I had been using xW20 since 2008.
I've been using a 20wt oil in my Bimmer through the fall, winter and spring for the past 7 years.
And I use a 0W-20 in my little Caterham; the spec' oil grade is 5W-50.
Originally Posted By: Topo
I'm using full synthetic mobil 1 0w30 in the cold winter months for better start ups. Going back to normal 10w30 in summer or may just stay at 0w30. Has anyone used 0w20 or 5w20 in a car that calls for 10w30.
My E430 calls for Mobil 1 0W40, or at minimum synthetic oil with HTHS 3.5 or higher, I had been using xW20 since 2008.
I've been using a 20wt oil in my Bimmer through the fall, winter and spring for the past 7 years.
And I use a 0W-20 in my little Caterham; the spec' oil grade is 5W-50.
To Papa Bear: I'm runnning a 2010 Chrysler 300 with a 3.5 Liter H.O. Motor. It calls for 10W30.
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
The second number is the one you need to worry about, since it's the thinnest the engine will see it when fully warmed up. Also, every one here knows that Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30 is "fully" synthetic. Actually, all 0W's are "fully" synthetic.
I know some have run 20 weight where 30 weight is called for (and not back-spec'd to 20 weight,) but I wouldn't recommend it. There's really no benefit, and while the chance of causing accelerated wear and possible early failure is probably small, it just isn't worth the risk.
This is backwards, as the stated need is for winter. The first # is important for cold flow.
The second number is the one you need to worry about, since it's the thinnest the engine will see it when fully warmed up. Also, every one here knows that Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30 is "fully" synthetic. Actually, all 0W's are "fully" synthetic.
I know some have run 20 weight where 30 weight is called for (and not back-spec'd to 20 weight,) but I wouldn't recommend it. There's really no benefit, and while the chance of causing accelerated wear and possible early failure is probably small, it just isn't worth the risk.
This is backwards, as the stated need is for winter. The first # is important for cold flow.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2025
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
The second number is the one you need to worry about, since it's the thinnest the engine will see it when fully warmed up. Also, every one here knows that Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30 is "fully" synthetic. Actually, all 0W's are "fully" synthetic.
I know some have run 20 weight where 30 weight is called for (and not back-spec'd to 20 weight,) but I wouldn't recommend it. There's really no benefit, and while the chance of causing accelerated wear and possible early failure is probably small, it just isn't worth the risk.
This is backwards, as the stated need is for winter. The first # is important for cold flow.
He seems like he's all over the winter rating, so I didn't even mention it. I was emphasizing my opinion on running the proper at-temp viscosity.
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
The second number is the one you need to worry about, since it's the thinnest the engine will see it when fully warmed up. Also, every one here knows that Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30 is "fully" synthetic. Actually, all 0W's are "fully" synthetic.
I know some have run 20 weight where 30 weight is called for (and not back-spec'd to 20 weight,) but I wouldn't recommend it. There's really no benefit, and while the chance of causing accelerated wear and possible early failure is probably small, it just isn't worth the risk.
This is backwards, as the stated need is for winter. The first # is important for cold flow.
He seems like he's all over the winter rating, so I didn't even mention it. I was emphasizing my opinion on running the proper at-temp viscosity.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Use the 0-30 year round.
What he said. ^^
Use the 0-30 year round.
What he said. ^^
Hey.. I have a Chrysler T&C 4.0L and it also requires 10w30.. I just did my recent oil change couple weeks ago and put in Amsoil signature series 0w30.. So far so good...Im planning on running the 0w30 all year round since it has a better protection at cold start up and will be similar to a 10w30 once it warms up... Also planning to run the amsoil 0w30 for roughly around 10k km...
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