Car sounds like it's dead for good

[nfs480]

Just spent three hours driving home from school for the weekend and my car broke down only about 2 miles from home. It started to sputter and wanted to die when I pressed on the accelerator. I pulled off into a parking lot and shut it down.

I tried restarting it and it didn't want to start back up (was cranking strong but wouldn't start running).

My dad and I came back later and managed to get it running, and it idled just fine, but if I put it into drive and started to drive it it would start sputtering and wanted to die again. It eventually did up and die again when I was driving around the parking lot.

I managed to get it started a third time and it made a horrible groaning noise so I shut it off.

It's a 1989 Honda Accord SE-i with 233,000 miles, anyone have any idea what could be wrong?

 

[Panzerman]

I wouldnt say its dead if its turning over. Dead is when they dont turn over at all or when inside objects come out to the outside(like through the block) and stuff comes out. Oil and antifreeze mixed, go ahead and dig a hole to bury it. I would say you have something minor going on such as a fuel pump or electronic problem.

 

[BigBuck]

Any check engine light on?

 

[nfs480]

No check engine light, but being an OBD-0 system there really aren't many things that trigger the light.

EDIT: The horrible groaning noise is what made me worry that something came apart inside the engine, I didn't try starting it again after that.

 

[The_Jeff]

check for a belt driven accessory having problems.

check the motor oil for glitter and whatnot.

I think it's the fuel pump though.

 

[Eddie]

+1 fuel pump or cloged fuel filter

 

[nfs480]

None of the belt driven stuff is having problems, no glitter in oil. I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key but I don't know about the fuel filter. I'll have to look into getting one.

 

[morris]

put a tune up on it, plugs, cap, rotor,ect. does not cost much, is easy to do. my dad always said "do the easyest cheapest thing first"












































'

 

[Chris Meutsch]

Distributor.

 

[Vikas]

If it starts and runs but dies as soon as you try to drive it then it is fuel pump. If this is carburated, then it could be alternator. The older Hondas had bad bug in the implementation of fuel cut-off which in their infinite wisdom took the alternator output to confirm engine running. This output gets over ridden during cranking and thus you get just enough gas to start the car. Since the alternator is not running, the fuel-cut off trips and no more fuel to get your car moving. Given that your car sputtered and died and also restarts, I suspect you need new alternator.

Oh, the horrible noise is definitely coming from the distributor. The Honda's of those vintage had brass bushing in the distributor housing rather than a bearing and it would eventually go. But before going you had enough symptoms such as suddenly losing tachometer or the horrible screeching sound from the engine.

Keep us posted as to what it turns out.

- Vikas

P.S. If you were waiting for an opportunity to buy a new shiny vehicle, "yes the car is dead for good"; buy a new one and help our economy. You should pay a BITOG guy to take it off your hand

 

[mechtech2]

All of a sudden loss of power and rough running is often a cam belt that went out. Jumped a tooth or is faulty somehow.
A compression check is #1. Way low or high is a clue.
Even if you pop off the cam belt cover, you may see it turn over when you crank it or start it. But that doesn't mean it is correct.

 

[ThirdeYe]

Main Fuel Relay, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, Distributor, those would be my guesses.

 

[nfs480]

My intention is to keep the car, my problem is finding time around schoolwork to look at it. I'll spend some time checking it out tomrrow and i'll let you guys know what I find, if anything. I know the cam belt didn't let go completely, but it is possible it jumped a tooth. The distributor is also a likely possibility as the tach has been jumpy for years.

The thing that worried me about the sound was that when it made the sound the oil light came on as it was dying so i'm worried something let go in the lower end of the motor. Although the oil light could have just been from the engine RPMs dropping to 0 slightly after.

 

[Herz]

correct me if I am wrong but wouldnt the idle be off if it were the distributor? He says the idle is fine.

 

[nfs480]

The car did indeed idle as if nothing were wrong, once I got it started of course. It did not want to start each time.

 

[Vikas]

Next time, turn on the ignition but count to 60 before attempting to crank. If that does not start, spray starting fluid and/or throttle body cleaner and see if runs briefly.

 

[nfs480]

Well, it's got weak spark. Do you guys think it could also be the ignition coil in addition to the distributor cap and rotor?

 

[Herz]

Well when was its last tune up, if it were a while ago you may be due for a set of wires, cap, rotor, plugs anyways. The distributor on my sierra cracked a few weeks ago causing the timing to go off, and I suffered backfiring, sputtering, hessitation, and weak low RPM power. But no stalling.

 

[nfs480]

Plugs and wires are only about a year old, not sure how old the cap and rotor are though.

 

[mechtech2]

Sure, you could have multiple problems.
But ignitions and fuel usually give warning signs first . Cam belts don't.
With no tests by you, we are stuck.