Car sits - opinions

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The weather went to [censored] here in MT a couple weeks ago and my mustang (4.6 3v) has been sitting in the garage. I don't want to drive the car when there is snow and ice on the roads. So it may be sitting there for a while.

The oil in the crankcase is M1 5W-20 and has about 2000 miles and 3.5 months on it. The car has a full tank of fuel.

I've heard seals/gaskets could dry out. And corrosion could creep in.

How long should I let the car sit before I go out and run it? How long should I let it idle?

PS: Apologies if this has been asked before.
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I would say its safe to sit for the season. If you want to to start it during that time, I would drive it for 20-30 min.
 
Originally Posted By: Riptide

I've heard seals/gaskets could dry out. And corrosion could creep in.

How long should I let the car sit before I go out and run it? How long should I let it idle?

PS: Apologies if this has been asked before.
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What seal? What gasket?

Never heard of any man-made seals and gaskets drying out in my life so far (oh well, with the exception of ye ole british cars made in the 40s and 50s) so what are you talking about?

Q.
 
Here are my experiences:

1) I have always owned a muscle car ever since I was 16 (a long time ago). I did not drive these cars in the winter. Every year my muscle cars would sit for about 6 months. Sometimes the oil was freshly changed when I was a kid, sometimes not. Sometimes I got around to charging the battery, sometimes not. Nothing bad ever happened.

2) I went off to University for 4 years. The muscle car I had then sat for 4 years, I could not afford insurance on it for the few summer months. I started it once or twice in those 4 years just to hear it run and sit in it. The only casualty in that period was the battery (of course), I simply couldn't put a charger on it regularly. No leaks or ruined engine / transmission.

3) I currently have an older truck (96 K1500) that I rarely use. Probably 4 times per year or so to go to the dump or to move furniture. The longest period it sat was 8 months. No issues.

4) For an extreme example, I have bought rare / interesting engines from wrecking yards (not anymore but years ago before the collector car hobby was ruined) to use in some of my cars. These engines sat for years before I came along and bought it with black horrible looking oil in them (who knows what kind of owner the motor had before the car ended up at the wrecker). After a careful resurrection, couple rod caps checked, fresh oil, all was well. Not counting physical damage from abuse there were no maladies from sitting in these junk yard motors is my point.

Now that I am an adult (and then some) sure... I put chargers on my long term storage cars and try to get fresh oil in before the car season is over but not always.

In your case you have nothing to worry about even if you sit until the Spring... 2000 mile M1 is plenty fresh.

The idling issue is difficult... I personally think idling cars is harder on them than leaving them be until you are ready to run them again. Mostly due to the extra water and acid byproducts of cold engine combustion, these get in the crankcase and, more so, are hard on your exhaust system. I try to wait for nice days (no snow / slush, I don't mind cold just as long as the roads are clear of [censored]) to actually go for a full warm up ride. Idling never gets the exhaust hot enough out back by the tailpipes to stay dry. I hate idling period even in the summer, idling is brutal on engines and, of course, the environment. IC engines are designed to run above idle, idling is hard on rod bearings and is not the ideal combustion speed. Take a look at any advanced motor mechanical diagnostic documentation and you will see idling down every time as a root cause for failed rod bearings. Obviously you have to idle lots in life (traffic, residential driving, oil pressure build up after a start, waiting for a passenger etc.) but I avoid doing it intentionally.
 
Idling the car is not good for it.
Driving it can be.
If you are going to start it, get it properly warmed up.
Keep the battery charged somehow and make sure the tires have air.
 
Thanks guys. Guess I won't worry about it so much. It'll probably be at least another week or two before I can drive it.

If I want to change the oil (have some PP) is it possible to do that without first driving the car to warm it up?
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Idling the car is not good for it.
Driving it can be.
If you are going to start it, get it properly warmed up.
Keep the battery charged somehow and make sure the tires have air.


+1 Idling the car is not good at all. If you have an opportunity to get it out and drive it do so. A nice 30 minute run would be ideal. During that time when the engine is good and warm turn on the A/C for about 3-5 minutes to get the oil flowing there as well. I would also suggest adding a qt of MMO to the gas then fill the tank to the top and drive the car. The MMO will coat the internals so nothing sticks or rusts, it also acts like a fuel stabilizer. A good run every 4-6 weeks and you'll be fine.

HTH,
Frank D
 
If you decide to change the oil, get the oil good and hot, so any condensation will be burnt off.

Frank D
 
Riptide I have been doing the exact same thing with my mach1. Pablo is correct by stating keep the garage as dry as possible.
If the weather permits I take mine out for a drive to get everything up to temp. I would not worry about the seals at all. My father has Street Rods that he drives about 2,000 miles per year and some of those motors were built in the 80s. None of them leak or have seal issues.
 
What is MMO?

Keeping the garage dry is a tough one. I park my DD civic in there and it drags moisture in with it from the streets.
 
Originally Posted By: Riptide
What is MMO?

Keeping the garage dry is a tough one. I park my DD civic in there and it drags moisture in with it from the streets.


I have the same problem. What I do if its damp inside the garage is open the door to let fresh air in, or just open it up a few inches for some air flow during the winter. I've been doing it for over 20 years and have no rusting problems at all. I look at it this way, any garaged car is going to look better and last longer than a car that's not garaged.

Frank D
 
Instead of MMO, I'd consider adding stabil to the gas if the gas is already fresh.

I've hardly been driving my car for the last few months and it's had the same tank of gas, and has been idling very rough lately. I finally got through this tank of fuel, and with a new tank, it's running good again, so I decided to add stabil since I won't be going to the office much until about February (I'm an accountant - tax season)
 
The gasoline was pumped into the car two weeks ago.

I was thinking about Stabil but I do intend to drive the car whenever the roads clear up. Trouble is that could be next week or two months from now. Who knows. This is MT. :)

I've heard gasoline should be good for six months. I have a 93 octane tune loaded on the car right now and the appropriate fuel in the tank. I wonder if the octane rating will degrade over time.
 
Stabil won't hurt at all. The gas alone should be good for about 6 months, MMO helps the gas as well. The reason I suggested MMO is because it will leave a very thin oil residue and prevent sticking valves, rings, and possible corrosion of cylinder walls. When we set my sons car up for a 7 month storage we used MMO and Stabil, we had no problems at all. If you have to leave the car for 2 months or more you'll be GTG.

Frank D
 
Riptide,
I've also got a Mustang. It's an '08 GT/CS Convertible. I keep it in my garage and only drive it about every week or two when the pavement is dry. I run it about 1/2 hour to warm everything up and keep the battery charged. I also put the heater on high when I drive it to keep any moisture from forming inside the vehicle (I hate that musty smell that can happen to cars that sit). Just change the oil in the late spring and you should be fine. The most important thing would be not to let it sit for more than a few weeks without driving it. Idling the vehicle seems to be worse than not even starting it so I'd avoid that if possible.....but if that's all you can do during a month long period of time I think it's ok. Just keep it dry, full of fuel, the tires moved to avoid flat spots, and when you drive it do it for at least 30 minutes.
 
Originally Posted By: Riptide
Will Stabil help prevent octane drop?


I'm not sure. I'd think even with stabil, you're going to lose some octane since it's a more volatile component in the fuel mixture and evaporates.

I found this - decent read. It's not like the fuel is going to go from 93 octane to 85. It may start losing a point a month if the fuel just sits there in a non-sealed environment like a car fuel tank.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/94933-gas-loses-octane.html
 
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