car has been sitting for three months

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By old hot rod has been sitting for 12 weeks, ran fine when I put it away. When I started it yesterday there was a nocking deep in the engine. after a wile it was very faint. Oil pressure is 60 lbs cold and 40 lbs when hot. Could it be a lifter isnt pumped up all the way?
 
I would say a lifter, or a sound you forgot was there in 12 weeks, or a mouse that is beat to a pulp and is no longer crying out for help.
 
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no, when it was put away there was no noise what so ever. It cant break it self
by sitting.I have heard nocking deep in other engines after they sat for a wile

The more I drive it the quiter it gets. Car has a 350, dual 4s, cam and 202 heads. It does have 40 weight oil in it. I onlt drive it in the summer

I am thinking cause the oil is so thick it takes quite a wile to warm it up and recirculate inside. When I did first start it I only ran it at 700 RPMs
till it was warm
 
??? its a 69 350 all redone. synthetic oil? 11:1 compression. Ill pass on the synthetic oil. I use Brad Penn oil with Zink
 
Originally Posted By: haynal
Come on where are all the Hot Rod Gear Heads??


Struggling to understand your spelling...

In all seriousness, a knock is rod bearing...a tick is a lifter...so, which is it?

A knock is deep within the engine, and it sounds heavy...that's what you've described.

You say that it can't break sitting there...and yet it's broken...so what response do you expect? If it's really a knock, then you have a serious problem. Could be that when it was last run, you spun a bearing, only it didn't make a sound because there was no load on the engine...and now that it's been unused, that bearing clearance won't let you develop oil pressure and the knocking is not going away...

If it were mine, I would pull the oil pan and check each bearing. If you're lucky, you'll find the bad bearing and be able to replace it. If you're unlucky, it's going to have to have the crank turned to get rid of the scoring on the journal...

While Zinc may be important, most HDEOs have as much Zinc as the Brad Penn. Zinc, by the way, is a component of ZDDP, which is what you're really after. A good HDEO or synthetic would be my first choice for your engine...particularly if you're going to start it in the winter time...even in 1932, a 40 wt was not recommended for winter use...a multigrade would suit you better...and the best multigrades are synthetic.

Before you dismiss the synthetic suggestion - consider that your engine has just had an oil failure/problem...you've lost a bearing...so your current oil selection CLEARLY doesn't work...
 
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Ok here we go again. WHEN I last used the car everyhing was perfect. I drove it in the garage and shut it off. All the oil I would think drained down in the pan. When I restarted the car yesterday the knock was in the engine,when it was warm the knock was slowely going away.

I have built many a engine,some for Offshore race boats some for Drag cars. [harassing statement removed]
 
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That wasn't very nice, and Astro is an airline pilot, not an English teacher.
You'll get much better advice here if you don't insult the other members.
You will get a caution based upon your having circumvented the censor software and you might even get banned.
That would be a pity because there is a lot of collective wisdom here, along with a lot of nonsense.
Since you're obviously a car guy, you'll be able to tell the difference.
Anyway, the lifters of this engine live in the block, so you could be hearing a lifter noise.
A noisy lifter will usually get quiet as the engine warms up, but does this engine have hydraulic lifters?
If it ran just fine when you put it away, I'd be inclined to think lifter.
If you had a spun bearing when it was last running, I think you would have known then.
 
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