car dies, then fires.

[Schmoe]

'90 Cutlass, died on the interstate off ramp on the way home last night. After I get it towed to a friends garage. It starts right up. I turned it off, it wouldn't start again. I cranked fast and fine, new alternator, new battery and new spark plugs and wires I put on last month. I'm thinking fuel pump. This morning I go by the shop and talk to the tech. Car fires right up. You can hear the fuel pump pressurize up when the ignition is turned on. Anyway, let it run for a while, car dies. Let it cool off, fires right up. This time when it died, took ether and sprayed down the intake, engine would not even sputter, so more than likely not the fuel pump.
Modulator???

 

[Willy_G]

If the pump runs, it might be the ignition system / ECM.

 

[1sttruck]

Too bad all fuel injected vehicles don't have fuel pressure gauges, as you'd be able to watch it and see if it's related to your symptoms. At start up just hook one up and see if it's meeting spec.

 

[mechtech]

Ignition module.
They get an intermittant open when hot, and can be OK when cool.

 

[doitmyself]

Does this vintage have an ignition coil??

I had a vehicle with a bad ignition coil (transformer). It would store up enough energy while sitting to start the car. After a minute or two the engine died because the coil was defective.

I could repeat this cycle over and over. It's an easy diagnosis (ohm meter) and repair.

 

[JohnBrowning]

Sounds Like it is either the ignition module or the coils. THey can be heat sensitive and moisture sensitive when they start to go. They should be able to test them.

Is the check engine light comeing on? Any codes? Have you tried wiggleing connectors and wire harness sections? What about crank and cam sensors etc????

 

[Schmoe]

No CEL. Put a new ignition module in it yesterday. Ran for about 15 minutes then died. There goes 165 bucks. After talking with the mechanic, he now thinks it's either the crankshaft sensor or the computer. I'm lost here. These things are above my head. To change out the crankshaft sensor involves a lot of work with no guarantee that it will fix the problem. The coils are relatively new.
My problem is that the car is 15 years old with right at 200K on it. Engine runs great and never uses any oil and still get around 29 mpg. I am now driving my 01 F150 supercrew to the tune of 15 mpg with a 83 mile roundtrip commute and the gas is eating my lunch, literally. How much do I keep going with the old car to fix it or just take the plunge now and donate it to charity. It will run for a while, then die. I've heard the junk yards won't give nothing for it. Car is in fine condition. Still got R12 in it, body is excellent condition. Surely I got at least get something for that. Auction? Put an ad in the paper? It's a '90 Cutlass Ciera, V6, AT.

 

[yugrus]

I had a problem like this in the car with turbodiesel engine. Turned out to be a clogged fuel filter. It would let the fuel flow for a while, but then the pressure differential was building up and the engine died.
With 200k on odometer I'd change the filter and see how it works. BTW, when was the last time you changed it?

 

[Schmoe]

I thought it might have been fuel too. So when the car wouldn't start, I sprayed ether down the intake to see if it would "hit." Nothing, so I eliminated the fuel problem. Also, when you turn the ingnition on, you can hear the fuel pump running. Wonder if I should just take the plunge and take it to the dealer and have them give me a cost.

Listen.....can you hear money flying away?????

 

[Crashbox]

Possibly the ignition switch beginning to fail? I had this happen many years ago- it caused very strange vehicle behavior to say the least...

Just a guess...

 

[mechtech]

I'm sorry if you bought the module with our advice, and it isn't the whole problem. It really should have been tested, first.
A crank position sensor is usually just one little bolt, and is an easy change.

 

[Gary Allan]

but you could replace a lot of "suspect parts" for what a dealer will charge for diagnostics and outrageous parts prices.


Sometimes you're down to two choices. Spending $300-400 wasted $$$ on new unneeded parts ...or spending $300-400 on ONE needed part at the dealer. Neither of them give you that good feeling.

 

[kc8adu]

change that crank sensor.
thats exactly how they act when they die.
get a cheap toolkit,a haynes or clymer manual,and cloths you dont mind getting dirty.i dont remember any that were hard to change.

 

[97tbird]

coolant temp. sensor?

 

[deepsquat]

My first thought was coil, but now??/ next time it dies , you really need to check for spark, also you still need to pull the fuel line off at say the fuel rail and see if it is truely pumping fuel past the filter.... also a few years ago when I had to replace my fuel pump the website I got it at said to be sure to check the fuel regulator , becuase over 1/2 ofthe time when people replace the fuel pump it is the regulator that is accually bad ...it is the little diaphram looking thing on the fuel rail .

BTW don't sweat the 3-400$$ this might end up running you to figure out and to fix, though it may be frustrating...how much is a car payment???
My wifes ex-husband just gave up trying to fix his Quad-4 based engine ( I think he needs a new coil pack) and bought a 700$ car ...now how long will that *** last him ???

 

[BubbaP]

If it is a V6, I think it has 3 coils (each running two plugs) and they are mounted on the igniton module. If no spark at any of the plugs, I would guess it isnt the coils. Since the ignition module has been replaced, the crank sensor may be the next best bet. (around $20)
I had purchased a crank sensor before I had the Beretta towed (see post above), but I could not get to it from the top. The car was parked on an incline, and did not feel safe raising it and getting underneath. I gave up and towed it to the dealer.

 

[BubbaP]

Don' feel bad about $165 for an ignition module. I think they fail reguarly enough that its not a bad "preventive maintenance" cost. More of a matter of "when" and not "if" they are going to fail.
My son's 93 Beretta had similar problems, and I had it towed to our local Chevy dealer. Total cost $431.01:
Diagnostic: $147.00 Ignition module $227.88 tow $32.50 tax $23.63
I would just try to figure out whether you have spark when it wont run. If you have spark, check to see if you have fuel.
Probably just a big crapshoot, but you could replace a lot of "suspect parts" for what a dealer will charge for diagnostics and outrageous parts prices.

 

[Schmoe]

It turned out to be the crank sensor. That was a pain in the butt to get it lined up right. Luckily, the GM dealer felt sorry for me and let me and my mechanic borrow the alignment tool. So far, so good....but everytime I drive it, there's a little "what if" going through my head. Trying to get this car to last until I can get a good deal on a new 06 Accord.
Since that ignition module was still original, I have been looking at it like it was preventative maintenance myself. Still......340 bucks later when it's all said and done with.
Thanks for all your inputs. Boy, I love this site.