Car Batteries

Joined
May 25, 2005
Messages
16,366
Location
ROCHESTER, NY
The battery in the Firebird in my signature is ~17 yrs old due to keeping a maintainer on it regularly. I thought it was over 20 yrs old till I found the receipt from 2005.

Although the battery is still OK, I am interested in replacing the battery due to its lower output than I'd prefer during HOT restarts.(cold startups are fine). And I've done my own load test and don't like what I'm seeing. Nuff said!

I don't need the most powerful battery because the car is 42 yrs old w/carb and really has no extra load on a battery except for using the power window switches, headlights and maybe the defogger, which are rare due to only driving the car on nice days(T-tops off/windows open).
Even the stereo IS NOT a powerful unit(40watts/channel) so I am thinking of getting a new DIE HARD RED(650cca/810ca) from AAP which is probably more powerful than this car has ever had before.

MY QUESTION IS:
Can someone tell me the difference in batteries, for example, the difference between the Economy vs, Plus vs Silver vs GOLD vs PLAT.(not AGM).
I mean, what is the difference in the lead plates in the inside because I don't believe that I need a more powerful battery that only sees 6 mo/yr.

Thanks,
CB
 
Dang... I thought I was doing good getting 6 yrs and 2 months out of an Advance Auto Parts brand battery from 2016 .
 
In theory you'd get fewer, thicker plates, which is desirable for your use.

Your alternator should carry the power windows and stuff, so that's not a battery choice issue.

In reality you might get a small battery's stack of plates in a bigger box. I'm not familiar enough with Clarios' cheapo line to vote yay or nay.

I wonder if you'd be better off with a marine battery or one marketed for extreme off roading, just to get the thicker plates.

I put a WM Valustart $55 battery in my Biscayne 250-6, which performed perfectly. Forget the size-- had plenty of room-- probably a generic 24 or 35.
 
sams club or costco are usually very good prices.

Sams club is duracell made by deka around me.
costco is interstate.
 
17 years, that's an impressive lifespan for a battery. Might be hard to find the equivalent in quality now (watching this thread).
This 17 yr old battery is just a standard Walmart EverStart(NON MAXX). ~600cca originally. It's not putting that our anymore. This is what keeping a battery on a Maintainer/TENDER does.

Different battery. I also have an 1 yr old Marine Deep Cycle battery for my backup sump pump that is now seen its better day. It is also on a maintainer. It still works but is experiencing similar low output issues and I'll replace it by FALL. However, this IS NOT the battery for this thread as I want to discuss(not which battery to buy nor from where) but what are the internal differences between lower end battery all the way up to the top tier battery.

The EverStart in my Firebird is a Dual Terminal(GM side post w/top post as well) with removal caps. And I want the exact same setup which is hard to find. AAP has what I am looking for and I also have REWARDS monies to use. However, I don't believe that I need to step up to the DIE HARD SILVER for a car that only sees 6 months of driving and not everyday. Also, the battery will be on MAINTAIN when not in use.

Please keep these^^^ things in mind (y);)
 
Dang... I thought I was doing good getting 6 yrs and 2 months out of an Advance Auto Parts brand battery from 2016 .
Was it on maintain when not in use?
I mean, I usually get 5+ yrs out of any battery that I don't keep on a maintainer
 
Was it on maintain when not in use?
Off an on.. not always.. it was in my 2005 Chevy Silverado.. it can sit for weeks without being used. I have a quick connect hanging out the side of the headlight and forget to hook it up at times.
 
The EverStart in my Firebird is a Dual Terminal(GM side post w/top post as well) with removal caps.
Dual terminal may be a difficult find.
As I understand, most manufacturers attempt to reduce cost by only having one set per battery.

As for removable caps, most auto batteries have it. They don't appear removable until you remove the stickers on the top.
Then you'll discover there should be 6 (usually) caps that can be unscrewed.
Once you do that, you'll have access to the cells for distilled water top-ups.
 
I've personally received good service from inexpensive batteries for basic vehicle use.

Winching or high draw apps I would consider my choices more carefully. Also in climate extremes I'm told things change, ie my friends in PHX say heat kills batts regularly.

If a hot start issue can the starter be better shielded from heat?
 
I've personally received good service from inexpensive batteries for basic vehicle use.

Winching or high draw apps I would consider my choices more carefully. Also in climate extremes I'm told things change, ie my friends in PHX say heat kills batts regularly.

If a hot start issue can the starter be better shielded from heat?
That's what I was thinking. Is the issue the battery (I know it's a 17 year old battery) or a starter that gets heat soaked when warm.
 
Dual terminal may be a difficult find.
As I understand, most manufacturers attempt to reduce cost by only having one set per battery.

As for removable caps, most auto batteries have it. They don't appear removable until you remove the stickers on the top.
Then you'll discover there should be 6 (usually) caps that can be unscrewed.
Once you do that, you'll have access to the cells for distilled water top-ups.
Yes, I realize that all batteries have removal caps one you've removed the label This IS NOT what I am talking about.

They have them at AAP. The DT and the standard removal caps from DieHard.
I can get them in the RED or SILVER. The RED should be enough for me for the next decade. I just want(wanted) to know about the innards/lead plates and output of the battery. What are the differences. Apparently know one knows, in order to give me an answer. Thanks all! :)

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...-650-cca-35-75-2/2040433-P?searchTerm=battery
 
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Here I am replacing batteries on my cars at 3 years just to play it safe, since they'll die soon anyways.
 
Here I am replacing batteries on my cars at 3 years just to play it safe, since they'll die soon anyways.
You live in Phoenix where it's really frikken (((HOT))) and the battery's off-gas. DO You check the cells and top off with distilled water?
Do you keep them on a maintainer/tender? If not, do so.

Not me. I'm not replacing my batteries every X yrs. That's what they want you to do. Now, most batteries are coming sealed, more & more & more. I can't find a remover(that I am referring to) from W*M anymore. They're all sealed. Or at leas the ones that I'd buy or need.
 
Not me. That's what they want you to do. Now, most batteries are coming sealed, more & more & more. I can't find a remover(that I am referring to) from W*M anymore. They're all sealed. Or at leas the ones that I'd buy or need.
Well, batteries don't last here in the extreme desert heat. Seems they love the cold. I always hear of long life batteries being from up North.
 
Yes, I realize that all batteries have removal caps one you've removed the label This IS NOT what I am talking about.

They have them at AAP. The DT and the standard removal caps from DieHard.
I can get them in the RED or SILVER. The RED should be enough for me for the next decade. I just want(wanted) to know about the innards/lead plates and output of the battery. What are the differences. Apparently know one knows, in order to give me an answer. Thanks all! :)

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...-650-cca-35-75-2/2040433-P?searchTerm=battery
It's a valid question and I've wondered, too. I'm enough of a skeptic that I could believe the low and mid-grade (or mid-grade and top end) are identical and you're just paying for a better warranty (insurance plan).

I don't know that to be true, though.

My shipping scale is good to 100#, kinda makes me want to carry it into WM or O'Reilly and weigh the various levels of the same Group size.....
 
The battery in the Firebird in my signature is ~17 yrs old due to keeping a maintainer on it regularly. I thought it was over 20 yrs old till I found the receipt from 2005.

Although the battery is still OK, I am interested in replacing the battery due to its lower output than I'd prefer during HOT restarts.(cold startups are fine). And I've done my own load test and don't like what I'm seeing. Nuff said!

I don't need the most powerful battery because the car is 42 yrs old w/carb and really has no extra load on a battery except for using the power window switches, headlights and maybe the defogger, which are rare due to only driving the car on nice days(T-tops off/windows open).
Even the stereo IS NOT a powerful unit(40watts/channel) so I am thinking of getting a new DIE HARD RED(650cca/810ca) from AAP which is probably more powerful than this car has ever had before.

MY QUESTION IS:
Can someone tell me the difference in batteries, for example, the difference between the Economy vs, Plus vs Silver vs GOLD vs PLAT.(not AGM).
I mean, what is the difference in the lead plates in the inside because I don't believe that I need a more powerful battery that only sees 6 mo/yr.

Thanks,
CB
I believe this is a East Penn(DEKA), made in USA. Very good batteries. I'd go as far as, the best for the money.

https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/battery/sli/bci-group-78/sli78agm
 
East Penn, or prepare for trouble... I know OP doesn't have Family Farm & Home up there (for Deka/Ultimate ones), but Sam's Club usually has a good price on Duracell Gold ones. AAP & AZ each burned me once on leaking JC batteries (not sure if Clarios improved them?), so they're OUT.
 
I believe this is a East Penn(DEKA), made in USA. Very good batteries. I'd go as far as, the best for the money.

https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/battery/sli/bci-group-78/sli78agm
This car does not need the best battery. It’s a SB V8 with no power options ‘cept power windows & a stereo. And seldom even driven at night to need turning on the headlights. No AC nor a security system nor the sensors that modern vehicles have in order to warrant a more powerful battery

I’m not asking the opinions of others of which battery I should get, I am looking fo better information than the internet as to the internals of batteries and what makes the battery have higher output. Is it how many lead plates each cell has?...or how thick each plate is? What make one battery 600 cca vs 800 cca vs 1000 cca?
 
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