Car Audio People Need Advice!!

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First of all I'm surprised that we don't have a car audio forum here at BITOG!

Anyways do you car audiophiles know if theres any good alternatives to Dynamat that works and is cheap? (Sound deadening sheets/pads) Thanks in advance!
 
Found about ten with a quick search.

I've used Dynamat, Edead, and the peel and stick stuff at Lowes.

They all work well. Just remember that they are HEAVY!
 
Dei boom mat spray, any kind of rubberized undercoat bought at advance auto/ autozone. Truck bed liner.

Car stinks for a week but after that it's quieter.
 
You may want to consider 3M Thinsulate, may not be that cheap but it is lightweight and very effective on deadening noise. For reducing vibration, Dynamat is still one of the best
 
I've been very happy with e-dead.

It has been from single digit temperatures last winter to well into triple digit temps last summer and shows no signs of peeling.
 
I think that Raamat BXT is the best value out there: http://www.raamaudio.com/products/RAAMmat-BXT-II.html

Here's what I wouldn't use: roof products from the Home Depot, or any of the really cheap car audio products that are asphalt-based. They stink, they don't work as well, the adhesion is iffy (sometimes they stick, sometimes they don't) and sometimes they'll turn to liquid in the heat. This is a time-intensive job, so it can really be a false economy to use cheap deadener. Some guys have good results, and some guys don't--and that seems completely dependent on the asphalt content of the particular roll that comes off of the assembly line. My suggestion: don't risk it. Raamat, SDS, Second Skin and Dynamat are all butyl-based. They also cost more, but this really is a matter of getting what you pay for.

I'd also look at Don's site, sounddeadenershown.com, to get some tips on deadening. He does a good job of explaining why using massive amounts of deadener is an inefficient way to go. 10 years ago, that's what pretty much everyone did. He's been instrumental in getting guys who are serious about this stuff to look at a different approach. Using a combination of vibration dampers, decouplers and blocking material really is the way to go. The explanation on his site should be required reading before you start throwing material at the problem.
 
The 3M deadening pads look like a sound blocker, basically an adhesive-backed mass-loaded vinyl. They look really expensive, particularly for the thickness. You can get thicker mlv for cheap locally, or from this guy: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/mlv Maybe the pads also have some sorta damping qualities, but without a foil-backed layer to constrain the movement of the material, I can't see how that's really possible. Unfortunately, I couldn't pull up the MDS sheet, but from what I can tell, it's simply a blocker.

There are a couple of guys who've used the butyl flashing tape to which you've linked. They reported good results with it, and the price is pretty decent--but it according the guys who've used it it's not as good a deal as it initially seems; it's quite thin, so you end up using a lot more of it. In the end, I think the general consensus was the the car-specific stuff ends up being the best deal.
 
I'll second Raammat.

It's nice when you send an email to a company and the owner/product expert is always the one who replies.
 
Here is a quick tip about constrained layer damping systems (which is what all mat type damping products are). Its not just about the added mass, but the interaction between the adhesive layer and the aluminum backing.
You need an adhesive layer that remains pliable and sticky, and a backing that is as ridged as possible, as its the shearing interaction between the adhesive and the backing that reduces vibration and noise above and beyond a simple mass loader.

If you use a cheap mat type product, the adhesive layer will harden over time, or even worse, loose adhesion. Additionally the aluminum constraining layer isn't thick or ridged enough to get the job done. Asphalt based mats, like virtually any of the cheap products on the market, don't hold up over time. The good ones simply get harder as they age, the bad ones melt or loose their stick. On top of that the aluminum constraining layers are usually only 1-3 mills thick, which isn't thick enough for the job.

A high quality mat will use a Butyl based adhesive with a nice thick aluminum backing...typically 4-8 mills thick. The thickness of the butyl layer is not as much of a concern as the thickness of the constraining layer, so 45-60 mills is usually plenty. Anything more, and you are just adding weight.
With a really good mat, you don't actually need to use that much, just enough to barely cover the center of large flat panels. Panels with complex bends already have increased rigidity and are less prone to resonance and vibration. Mat type damper products reduce vibration and resonance, which can have a secondary effect of reducing a bit of road noise. But for true sound absorption or blocking, you are looking at a different set of products.
If your goal is to block external noise from entering the cabin, then a nice mass-loaded vinyl with a decoupling layer is what you need.

Anyways, here are a few good damping products. Remember, these are anti-resonance mats...so you don't need to cover every panel. Its a lot cheaper then most realize if you use a high quality product.

CLD Tiles (Sounddeadenershowdown.com)
(8 mil foil layer)
Second Skin Audio Damplifier and Damplifier Pro
(6.5 mil foil layer)
Dynamat Extreme
(4 mil foil layer)
RAAMat BXT II
(4 mil foil layer)

The current version of E-Dead has a butyl based adhesive layer, however it uses a plastic (mylar) constraining layer which simply isn't effective. All this product does is increase mass. Even worse is the butly layer often separates from the mylar layer...I know this because I have over 50 sqft of the product in the next room and on my car. Just say no to E-dead in its current form. I've also used their older product, the one that was asphalt and aluminum. It hardened after a few years, eliminating any of the constrained layer benefits. Unfortunately this is going to be the case for just about any asphalt based product, including roofing products like peal and seal, fatmat, and any of the other cheap mats. I'm not saying they won't work...they certainly add mass, but they won't be as effective as a true constrained layer damper.
 
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