Car Audio Folks - A Wire Question

[JHZR2]

Hi,

OK, so without getting too deep into detail, Ill just say that I cut a wire on a harness that is connected to my door speakers. The harness is nearly impossible to get to, and there is maybe a 3x3x3" space to work.

The wire that is cut is the shortest of the bunch, the cut is on the wire going to the closest speaker.

The wire is stranded copper, and is relatively thick as far as speaker wires that Ive seen go.

I tried using a butt (dual female) crimp connector. I couldnt get the wires in, as there is only 1/2" on the one end, and 1.5" on the other. It isnt located so that I have effective control of either end to get it to go in properly.

I finally managed to get some round (barrel??) male and female connectors. The one plugs into the other. Ive seen these used on audio equipment before. In the space available that was the only thing I could get to fit. I had to cut off the plastic leading to the part of the connector where the wire sticks in, but other than that, it was doable with little resistance, as opposed to the other methods I could have chosen. Soldering wasnt an option in the space available.

I wrapped lengths of electrical tape on the wire/connector. to attempt to give the crimp some strength. I also electircal taped the connector to the rest of the wires in the harness, in hopes of supporting it more. Included in the harness are fiber optic cables, so the overall structure is very rigid.

My question is this: The speaker that the wire goes to is limited to 20-250 hz. I am worried that the crimp connector, especially in time will cause reduced performance from that speaker. Is there case to worry? In my BMW, the wires were all cut, and they were rejoined, and I dont hear any problems with it. However, in the car I just cut, the system is much better quality. Will I be able to hear the wires/connection degrading or corroding in time? Am I saved due to the range of frequencies, which are typically a little bit more on the dirty side as far as sound goes (the real clarity/quality issues show up in the higher frequencies???)?

If a connection goes bad, will ti simply stop working, or will it start to get crackly, lower volume, more hiss, etc?

I may have to suck it up and pay a LOT of $$$ to have the dealer replace the harness because of this one wire. Im not sure. Id just like my fears put away, or start budgeting for the replacement.

Any info on the quality of spliced audio connections would be appreciated.

Thanks!

JMH

 

[kcryan]

I just installed a alpine HU in my I30 and to hooke it up to the stock harness i had to crimp every connection coming out of the head unit including the ones going to the speakers, The stero sounds awesome. I wouldnt really worry too much about a change in the sound quality with a crimp, But listen if there really is a problem you might be able to spray some electric grease or somthing in with the crimp or if you have to you could probally solder it.

Again i dont think this should hurt the quality.

I hope this answers your question.

 

[shortyb]

I have done about a million (ok, lots) of crimped, butt-joined, soldered, twisted, and taped audio connections. None have ever produced any audible maladies. I think you've taken sufficient precaution with the connection and seriously doubt it will have any effect on sound quality.

 

[brianl703]

If you ever have to make a splice with limited wire length, you can always add a piece of wire and make two splices:

old wire->splice->new wire->splice->old wire

 

[Propflux01]

BTW, the connectors you are referring to, are called 'bullet connectors'...

 

[JHZR2]

quote:

---

Originally posted by brianl703:
If you ever have to make a splice with limited wire length, you can always add a piece of wire and make two splices:

old wire->splice->new wire->splice->old wire

---

I was going to do that! I figured if I used a wire, and looped it around on itself, it would take up any flex and keep everything secure.

Fortunately I got it together with the bullet (thanks!) connectors. If I ever have an issue, Ill give that a try before hitting the dealer for harness replacement.

Thanks!

JMH

 

[kenw]

any failure will occur over time, it's rare for a connector to fail very soon. Either use a crimp connector applied with a proper tool or solder. Twisted and taped will last until the corrosion coats the surfaces and increases the voltage drop. it will then either fail due to too much corrosion for the power to burn thru or just catch on fire......but not on speaker wires, the voltage is too low.

If you are talking a power connection, the corrosion may be burned off by the heat generated. Seriously, it isn't good but is why twisted power connections last a long time. An almost-as-easy fix and a lot more durable is the twist-on wire nuts. They actually provide enough force to maintain a fair degree of gas-tightness. (gas-tight means air-tight, therefore no corrosion)

For low voltage (speakers, etc), solder is really the only sure-fire foolproof permanent way. Crimp connectors are fine and certainly easier and safer, but unless you get the right crimp on them, getting enough force to make a real gas-tight connection (hard to do with a pair of chain-nose pliers), it will just corrode over time. Maybe a "long-enough-time, but it will corrode eventually. Once it starts, it just grows....

It will most likely just cut in and out if/when it goes bad.