Just a tip for anyone that is is replacing a PentaStar crank sensor at any point, have the pigtail connector on hand before you touch it. This is the second one I've done and the connector fell apart taking it off gently. (Higher heat area)
SMP makes a good replacement and it's 1/2 the cost of the dealer and all my local auto parts places carry it and the dealer stocks it so it has to be a common problem when the crank sensor is replaced.
I soldered the connections to the new connector instead of using their crimp connectors that were included, and then heat shrinked all 3 wires individually and put a piece over the bundle of wires before replacing the aluminum tape over it all so it's well protected.
It's a real PITA on the Caravans and although the Jeeps are easier it's still not fun either and I had the connector fall apart on that vehicle as well.
Just did this second one yesterday on my aunts 2014 Caravan. Vehicle was still running but it kept loosing the crank sensor signal intermittently setting the light.
To solder the wires on the Caravan it's easier to pull the connector up above the transmission and do the soldering/repair there and then feed it back down to the crank sensor area because there is no way you can change the connector down below without removing a bunch of stuff in the way and even then it would be limited at best.
You have to take the heat shield off the area (10mm bolt) around the sensor and you will need long needle nose pliers and sparkplug type needle nose pliers to get the connect on/off as well as to remove the sensor and put the new one back in otherwise it's a real PITA to get at without removing a bunch of stuff like the exhaust pipe and cross support running through the area.
10mm bolt holding the crank sensor in position. (Do not over tighten, and make sure sensor is seated flat before tightening down the bolt) Lubricate the o-ring on the sensor so it slides easily in place as you can't rock side to side to make sure it's seated because of the alignment guideways on the sides of the sensor.
When you put the wires back on the new connector, pay attention to which brown wire goes where. They look the same. I would recommend doing one wire at a time.
![[Linked Image]](https://photos.us-eagle-parts.com/catalogue/51/800/5149167AD.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/doc/R/4666402/0/3/T/smp-engine-crankshaft-position-sensor-connector-s2278.jpg "[Linked Image]")
SMP makes a good replacement and it's 1/2 the cost of the dealer and all my local auto parts places carry it and the dealer stocks it so it has to be a common problem when the crank sensor is replaced.
I soldered the connections to the new connector instead of using their crimp connectors that were included, and then heat shrinked all 3 wires individually and put a piece over the bundle of wires before replacing the aluminum tape over it all so it's well protected.
It's a real PITA on the Caravans and although the Jeeps are easier it's still not fun either and I had the connector fall apart on that vehicle as well.
Just did this second one yesterday on my aunts 2014 Caravan. Vehicle was still running but it kept loosing the crank sensor signal intermittently setting the light.
To solder the wires on the Caravan it's easier to pull the connector up above the transmission and do the soldering/repair there and then feed it back down to the crank sensor area because there is no way you can change the connector down below without removing a bunch of stuff in the way and even then it would be limited at best.
You have to take the heat shield off the area (10mm bolt) around the sensor and you will need long needle nose pliers and sparkplug type needle nose pliers to get the connect on/off as well as to remove the sensor and put the new one back in otherwise it's a real PITA to get at without removing a bunch of stuff like the exhaust pipe and cross support running through the area.
10mm bolt holding the crank sensor in position. (Do not over tighten, and make sure sensor is seated flat before tightening down the bolt) Lubricate the o-ring on the sensor so it slides easily in place as you can't rock side to side to make sure it's seated because of the alignment guideways on the sides of the sensor.
When you put the wires back on the new connector, pay attention to which brown wire goes where. They look the same. I would recommend doing one wire at a time.
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