Can't get knuckle back on the strut.

I mean can't I push it in while attached to the knuckle just the same? The only reason the knuckle isn't rotating inward is because the inner joint popped out. Yes it would be easier to do it with the axle out of the car but would try this first.
Sometimes the inner CV joint will need a weird angle of alignment to reseat correctly after being popped out of the cup. You should be able to reseat it with the nut removed if you partially free the splines from the bearing hub without having to fully remove the axle from the transmission.
 
Sometimes the inner CV joint will need a weird angle of alignment to reseat correctly after being popped out of the cup. You should be able to reseat it with the nut removed if you partially free the splines from the bearing hub without having to fully remove the axle from the transmission.
IME that rarely works on Honda inner joints. Instead of struggling, it is quicker to just remove the boot, fix it and reassemble.
 
Have had this same thing happen in a Nissan and Volvo in the recent past. Was certainly troubling when this happened, but in both cases it was easily fixed by applying some inward force on the “popped out” CV joint, while turning the wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle until the joint popped back into place. As i recall, it took a couple of revolutions to get it to pop back. You might need an extra set of hands to restrain the side that you’re working on from rotating, as i recall.
 
IME that rarely works on Honda inner joints. Instead of struggling, it is quicker to just remove the boot, fix it and reassemble.
If the joint has completely separated from the cup (which it may or may not - can't tell from pics) AND one of the round bearing assemblies have popped off the spider, then yes you will need to remove the boot. Personally, I've never had that happen on a Honda. In any event, here is the video that shows what pieces of the inner joint must be aligned (fast forward to 7 mins. + 25 secs.).

 
You will need to put another floor jack under the brake rotor and lift it a bit to rotate the bolt hole inward until you can get a chisel/punch/screwdriver into one side of the upper hole. Once you have that chisel/punch/screwdriver in place, you should be able to leverage the hole into alignment so the bolt will fit through the other side.

I've had to use this method on many, many Honda front struts.
Just what I was thinking. And yes, looks like the CV was over extended.
Look at it after the Strut is in place.
 
I tried that but it would not go in any more. That the boot looks twisted as well as extended has me thinking the joint came apart.
Maybe that's why the rotor won't jack up allowing the knuckle to swing into place?
 
Ok not a big deal. Already have the tie rod off, the sway bar off, both strut bolts loose. Would only have to remove the axle nut and hopefully can slide the outer joint out without removing the ball joint.


I mean can't I push it in while attached to the knuckle just the same? The only reason the knuckle isn't rotating inward is because the inner joint popped out. Yes it would be easier to do it with the axle out of the car but would try this first.
I think it would give you more wiggle room if you loosen/remove the axle nut.
 
Inner CV joint has separated.
And when that happens the rollers fall off of the triangle center piece-- you'll have to get inside the boot to put it back together.

R&R strut goes a lot smoother if you detach the lower ball joint as well rather than try to get the strut in place with the knuckle still attached to the lower arm. Pretty much any work on this front suspension starts with detaching the lower ball joint.
 
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This job goes a lot smoother if you detach the lower ball joint as well rather than try to get the strut in place with the knuckle still attached to the lower arm.
No, the easiest way is to put a jack stand under the lower control arm to prevent the axle from coming out.
 
Axle out. Can't get the joint back together so will pull the boot back and have a look see.

IMG_5403.JPG
 
It should all be downhill from here once you get it back together again. I'd clean and repack the joint with new CV grease before reassembling it. You might consider attaching a temporary lanyard between the inner cup and the center counterweight to prevent it from separating again until it is installed. I have used wire from a coat hanger and nylon Ty-wraps to do so in the past.
 
atikovi - you have nerves of steel. I would've been way too upset and distraught to be taking pictures.
 
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