Candidate for Stop Leak Tablets?

Joined
Apr 8, 2021
Messages
16
Location
Winnipeg, Manitoba
I've got a 2014 Chevrolet Trax 1.4 Turbo, 116,000 kms. It looks to be dripping coolant from the lower corner of the radiator on the passenger side. I've taken a look from underneath, it doesn't seem to be from the lower hose, or the temperature sensor in the radiator on that side. I only see dampness on the lower 2-3 inches of the radiator where the aluminum crimping meets the plastic tank, so that where I'm thinking the problem is.

If I were to let it drip indefinitely, its at the rate I may have to top up the reservoir tank, I don't know, once a month? Its a slow leak.

Would this be a good candidate to try some GM or Bars Stop Leak Tablets? I really, REALLY, don't want to cause any further issues...!
 
If you're going to keep this vehicle until it starts to wear out, then I would advise against any additive because they can attempt to seal galleries inside the engine where coolant needs to flow. Then weird things start to happen.
 
The GM ones are much less likely to clog up the heater core.

less than a 50 % chance it will stop any leak, and even if it does then the question is how long will it last?

Most of the stuff sold at auto parts stores for that will clog the heater core. So before you use it ask yourself how hard it is to replace the heater core and how much will that cost you for the core and lost antifreeze, and time?
 
Most of the stuff sold at auto parts stores for that will clog the heater core.
I used K-Seal in a Taurus. I thought about it and decided to leave the heater core closed for 500 miles or so until I drained the coolant after the leak stopped. Of course I can't say if it made a difference, but I lost no heater performance doing this, and this is on a car notorious for clogged heater cores. The instructions always say it needs to flow through the core, something about pressures, etc but it worked fast and has held now for about 20k miles so far.
 
I used K-Seal in a Taurus. I thought about it and decided to leave the heater core closed for 500 miles or so until I drained the coolant after the leak stopped. Of course I can't say if it made a difference, but I lost no heater performance doing this, and this is on a car notorious for clogged heater cores. The instructions always say it needs to flow through the core, something about pressures, etc but it worked fast and has held now for about 20k miles so far.
I could see re-plumbing ( bypassing the heater core for a couple of months in the summer with proper size pipe fitting, you might have to make one on a lathe, it would be easy to make ) and then drain and fill once or twice and reconnect the heater core.
 
I've got a 2014 Chevrolet Trax 1.4 Turbo, 116,000 kms. It looks to be dripping coolant from the lower corner of the radiator on the passenger side. I've taken a look from underneath, it doesn't seem to be from the lower hose, or the temperature sensor in the radiator on that side. I only see dampness on the lower 2-3 inches of the radiator where the aluminum crimping meets the plastic tank, so that where I'm thinking the problem is.

If I were to let it drip indefinitely, its at the rate I may have to top up the reservoir tank, I don't know, once a month? Its a slow leak.

Would this be a good candidate to try some GM or Bars Stop Leak Tablets? I really, REALLY, don't want to cause any further issues...!
The GM ones are made by Barsleak, they are identical but cheaper (no Gm branding). The reason these are safe and do not block up the cooling system is the sealing is done with ginger root. The only wood that actually swells when dry after being wet.
The particles harmlessly roam around in the cooling system until they flow from a leak and are exposed to air, they then swell effectively stopping the leak, the repair if not huge last a very long time if not permanent.

 
Thanks for all the input. I’m going to replace the radiator, I was just curious if anyone had any experience with this stop leak stuff. I’ve never been one to use any of them, but was curious is perhaps this was the type of situation they could be useful in. But I’m super hesitant due to all the horror stories about clogs and gunk in the coolant system…!
 
Subaru Coolant Conditioner (Holts Radweld) or the GM/Bars Leak tablets. They will not clog your radiator.

Lucky for you, Rock Auto carries the actual OE radiator for your Trax. Also, if you don't already have one, the Lisle Coolant Funnel will make bleeding the coolant very easy :)
 
Thanks for all the input. I’m going to replace the radiator, I was just curious if anyone had any experience with this stop leak stuff. I’ve never been one to use any of them, but was curious is perhaps this was the type of situation they could be useful in. But I’m super hesitant due to all the horror stories about clogs and gunk in the coolant system…!
Best course of action!

Modern radiators aren't that expensive, and they're also built light and cheap to the point that they don't last forever. At least with the ones I've run in a hot climate, by the time weeps start, the plastic tanks have had enough embrittlement from the heat to be at risk of splitting. I've never had a good experience when that has happened.

A decade ago, I had to use a bottle of Bars Leaks, (not the tablets) to get my Jeep out of a bad situation. Multiple coolant changes later, that stuff is still in there, and still making a mess of things. Gunks the cap, gunks the coolant bottle, gunks the coolant level sensor, but apparently doesn't gunk the tiny leak I think exists in the heater core. I can just smell a hint of AF from the vents when I fire it up from a hot soak, but I'm not going to spend a few days going after that. Worse, I suspect that the heater core weep may have resulted from work to flush some of the Bars Leaks from the heater loop.
 
The GM ones are made by Barsleak, they are identical but cheaper (no Gm branding). The reason these are safe and do not block up the cooling system is the sealing is done with ginger root. The only wood that actually swells when dry after being wet.
The particles harmlessly roam around in the cooling system until they flow from a leak and are exposed to air, they then swell effectively stopping the leak, the repair if not huge last a very long time if not permanent.

I've used Barsleaks tabs several times without an issue. I usually used less than what Barsleaks recommends (1 or 2 tabs). I remember reading that many manufacturers install them at the factory so how bad could they be.
 
I used K-Seal in a Taurus. I thought about it and decided to leave the heater core closed for 500 miles or so until I drained the coolant after the leak stopped. Of course I can't say if it made a difference, but I lost no heater performance doing this, and this is on a car notorious for clogged heater cores. The instructions always say it needs to flow through the core, something about pressures, etc but it worked fast and has held now for about 20k miles so far.
K-Seal will not clog a heater core or radiator. It only solidifies when it encounters air at a leak. It is by far the safest sealant you can use. If you like after the leak is sealed you can drain your coolant and refill with fresh as the repair is permanent. But K-Seal will not clog coolant passages.
 
K-Seal will not clog a heater core or radiator. It only solidifies when it encounters air at a leak. It is by far the safest sealant you can use. If you like after the leak is sealed you can drain your coolant and refill with fresh as the repair is permanent. But K-Seal will not clog coolant passages.
It is by far the highest regarded sealer, that's why I paid $13 for that tiny little bottle. I really didn't expect it to work, but it did. Knock on wood. 😁

I had to pull the head on this car last week. Coolant passages were not gummed up at all like you see with other sealants.
 
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