Can you torque loctited bolts after they have been set?

Joined
May 20, 2019
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British Columbia, Canada
Logically I'm guessing no... if the thread locker dries and sets, threading the bolt further would turn the loctite into that brittle powder and defeat the whole point?

The reason I ask is I just did a body lift on the truck, the instructions say to use loctite, but they also say to re-check the torque on all bolts after some period of driving. I'm guessing if the torque wrench moves the bolts at all, then I have to remove it, clean it, and redo the whole thing?
 
Logically I'm guessing no... if the thread locker dries and sets, threading the bolt further would turn the loctite into that brittle powder and defeat the whole point?

The reason I ask is I just did a body lift on the truck, the instructions say to use loctite, but they also say to re-check the torque on all bolts after some period of driving. I'm guessing if the torque wrench moves the bolts at all, then I have to remove it, clean it, and redo the whole thing?
Nonsense instructions.
 
Instructions don’t make sense. I’d suspect thst the bolts have a pretty high torque values assigned. I’d probably set my torque wrench for a decent bit less, and just check for click, if that peace of mind helps you.
 
Maybe over a very long period of time I can see the rubber collapsing a little and the bolts may need retorquing but not for a long time if it was torqued properly using thread locker the first time
 
I hate when they say that.

Loctite makes two “Wicking Grade” thread lockers designed for post-assembly applications. 220 and 290.

LOCTITE 290 is a medium/high strength, wicking grade threadlocking adhesive that is ideal for locking preassembled fasteners.

LOCTITE® 290 is a liquid medium/high-strength threadlocker designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. Because of its low viscosity and capillary action, the product wicks between engaged threads and eliminates the need for disassembly prior to application.

 
 
It makes sense to check for loosening bolts after driving for a while, but turning Loctited bolts is going to break the lock part of Loctite. I set a pound or two less than the specified torque just to make sure the bolt didn't loosen (Like JHZR2 said).
 
If it's hard to tell if the parts are perfectly aligned or there is rust, I would have done without the locktite and retorqued them instead. If it's not hard to tell that there will be no settling later, locktite and don't retorque.

In other words for example U-bolts, it's not that the nut comes loose as the primary problem but rather the bolt may shift on the axle stack to result in more play, then less torque on the nut, and then it could loosen.
 
Jeez, just match-mark the bolt heads with sharpie or a center punch against the adjacent material. No turny= no loosey.

edit, though this won't let you know about "settling" as describe above. But it would be another data point, and is cheap and quick.
 
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