Russ 300 H ,I would hope that the machine work would be done to ultra close internal tolerances...I used to own a 1979 F150 with a 300/6 that had a little over 300,000 miles and passed California smog with flying colors using synthetic oil at yearly changes when I sold it.
Can synthetic cause camshaft damage?
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lyco5555, Your previous post is not correct!!
Synthetics do have higher film strength then their conventional base stock counter parts witch is independent of the viscosity! You need only compare a group-V ester to see this. This is what allows a 5W20 ester based synthetic to have an HTHS of 3.3 while a conventional 10w30 might only have an HTHS of 3.1. The additives have little to do with film strength and HTHS especialy with a premium synthetic!!
Steve, The tolerences on the latest generation of motors are extremely close. The current Ford 4.6 has much tighter tolerences than an old 5.0 for instance. It's one reason engines last much longer and consume less oil. Of course what good BITOGer wouldn't credit modern oil and filters also!
The tolerences are also one reason cars like Vipers, Corvettes and others can come from the factory with synthetic with no break in. You aren't going to get those tolerences from any machine shop no matter how good their equipment is. I'm not knocking anyone, you will most likely get an engine back with better tolerences than built by the factory. It's just the factory tolerences (from any of the big three) weren't that close back then.
JOHNNY: OIL is pressure fed to the cam bearings. It's the surface between the lifter and cam lobe that is splash lubricated. If you ever rebuild an engine with a flat tappet cam, you need to cover the lobes with a special lube. When you start the engine for the first time, you must run it at 2500 rpm or so for about 1/2 hour. That is needed to break in the cam as the splash lube is not enough, especially at idle, to meet the break in requirements.
JOHNNY: OIL is pressure fed to the cam bearings. It's the surface between the lifter and cam lobe that is splash lubricated. If you ever rebuild an engine with a flat tappet cam, you need to cover the lobes with a special lube. When you start the engine for the first time, you must run it at 2500 rpm or so for about 1/2 hour. That is needed to break in the cam as the splash lube is not enough, especially at idle, to meet the break in requirements.
BLUE99: synthetics dont have higher flim strength than mineral if both are the same viscosity. Camparing 10w30 to 10w30 the film strenght will be similar, additive chemistry is what improves film stregth,,,,, old wives tales linger greatly on this site.
Russ300H: Thanks for the info.
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