Can I use this grease for brake maintenance?

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Oct 25, 2014
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78
Location
GA
MAG1 Hi-Temp Disc Brake Wheel Bearing Grease.

It's at lease 20 years old but it seems fine to me. I'm replacing the two front brakes on my Subaru Crosstrek next weekend and was wondering if I could use it for the pad clips, slide pins and back of pad shims.

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Thanks!
 
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agreed. not worth tye risk to brakes sticking. Wearing out your pads and rotors early or worse.

I searched high and low for a grease that would not dry. out on the slide pins. permatex premuim ceramic and others all dried out. good ole sil-glyde is the only thing that stayed liquid over the brake life. DONE,
 
I use Dynatex 49593 Silicone Brake System Compound, -40 to 400 Degree F, and have had really good luck on brake jobs. Plastic and rubber safe also.
 
Thanks everyone! Napa carries the Sil-Glyde but it's branded with their name. Is this the same thing? Napa Item Number: 765-1351
 
Is sil-glyde good for all areas of the brakes where grease is normally applied? Or is it best to just use it for the caliper pins since they're inserted in rubber boots?

Thanks.
 
Study this recent thread : https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...seize-or-silicone-brake-lube#Post5131790

Some of us believe in using a brake "grease" for the enclosed pins (SilGlyde or Silicone) and high solids moly "paste" for the exposed to weather metal-to-metal areas (MolyKote 77 and Goodson's Pastelub - extreme water washoff resistant).

For comparison, the CRC black brake lube contains less than 5% moly/PTFE/graphite while the MolyKote 77 and Pastelub contain over 40% moly.

Here's just one article that suggests the 2 type grease approach: https://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/ic80560.htm
 
I must have a dozen posts promoting the Pastelub. It's other phenomenal use is for rust prevention. A paper thin coat on hubs, rotor hats, drums, anything bare metal will ward off rust for more than a year even in my heavy salt bath climate.
 
What if the grease was new or less than 5 years old? I have a tub of this stuff and have used it for packing Wheel Bearings, Disc Brakes (caliper slider pins, back of pads, hardware/pad slide-friction areas (edges/ears, etc.), Drum Brakes (Shoe to Plate contact areas), parking break cable/pulley slide area (if any), adjuster screws, any hinged hardware, wheel cylinder contact point to shoes, etc.

Have I been doing it wrong all these years? I usually discarded (keep but put away) the grease packet that comes with new pads, and just used that high temp red lithium-complex grease. I've never had any issues, so I hope this is just a "6 one way, 1/2 dozen the other" type of thing? Please advise. I've always used this stuff and now I feel like a dork.
 
There's more to brake lube than just high temp resistance. There's also rubber compatibility and resistance to water washout. Be weary of Permatex lubricants...they say they are rubber compatible but I swear it made my rubber dampers swell. It also caused my rubber bushings to lose tightness, which means they don't seal as well and increases the chances of water getting in.
 
yeah, the effects on rubber and other manmade materials are the most important. Silicone usually has little effect on them, and in case there is seal issue it's hydropilic which keeps the metals from rusting. Add to that the ntypically excellent thermal and oxidation stability and high viscosity index and it's your best bet to get functioning brakes in extreme hot or extreme cold, with water and salt spray, for years.

For the parts of the brakes that don't have rubber or plastics, I use a bentonite synthetic copper grease. Doesn't wash away, doesn't dry out, doesn't drop oil and prevents corrosion buildup effectively. Doesn't cause rubber swelling either but the viscosity is much higher than the silicone grease I have

Not all anti seize compounds are equal though, have seen some that dry out and just leave the copper or nickel behind. And some swell rubbers.
 
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