Can I use GC or mobil 1 0w-40?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: jtaylor
thank you Garak, I really appreciate that, what is HDEO


No problem. Someone already answered it before I got back. Basically, diesel engine oil. They're all marked as to whether or not they meet the S spec (i.e. SJ, SL, SM) for gasoline engines. One has to choose one that meets the specifications for one's particular gasoline engine, be it SM or other proprietary specifications. Check the owners manual for any contraindications or weird specifications.

For the most part, 5w-20 wasn't created because of clearances or because engineers decided they were wrong for all these years. It's because of fuel economy.

There will be a difference in measured fuel economy between a 5w-20 and a 15w40, for instance. It won't break your wallet, but when a car manufacturer has to meet fuel economy guidelines, it can be pretty significant. Over the years, we've seen all kinds of ways cars have changed simply due to satisfy fuel economy (and emissions) regulations.

When emissions technology and fuel injection were in their infancy, we saw manufacturers switch to skinny little tires to reduce rolling resistance. We saw that swing back as engine and fuel control advanced rapidly. Oil recommendations have been going progressively thinner, in the North American market at least.

In Germany, we find cars driving faster and with longer OCIs. They use thicker oils, and German manufacturers recommend them. My Audi specifically recommends a 40 weight oil, unless the cold dictates otherwise. Yet, in North America, and even here on the forums, we have posters buying the 5w-20 argument, yet wanting extended OCIs as well.

So, find something that meets the requirements for your engine and is a viscosity with which you're comfortable. If the manual explicitly prohibits an HDEO, then you're out of luck for HDEO. Otherwise, it is an option, particularly since you have been using synthetics and appropriate viscosities are available in synthetic HDEOs. GC is also a good option.

In your climate, a 5w-40 is not going to provide any problems, at least from a viscosity perspective. If I can start my Audi in -40 weather with 5w-40 in it, it is categorically not too thick for California weather.
 
my question about being too thick was more directed toward the cylinder deactivation feature on the car. somebody at one of the drive through lube places said that they need lower viscosity oil to get lube up to the top end of the engine. somehow, I don't buy it.
 
Originally Posted By: jtaylor
my question about being too thick was more directed toward the cylinder deactivation feature on the car. somebody at one of the drive through lube places said that they need lower viscosity oil to get lube up to the top end of the engine. somehow, I don't buy it.


That's a good question. The manual may help you on that one. Also, find out what the local dealer uses. Do they actually use the 5w-20, or do they use bulk 10w30 or 5w30 like many places still do?
 
although, i suppose this topic is irrelavent because i've run amsoil sso 0w30 and it worked fine. so i have a feeling that it doesn't really make a difference as long as i don't run 60wt or something.
 
What they are trying to say is that you can't tell anything by the way the oil looks. The "butt dyno" a.k.a. "how it feels when driving" is also pretty unreliable.

You sorta want the oil coming out icky looking for the most part, it means that the products of combustion that inevitably get into the oil are suspended and not left deposited in the engine.

If it were me I would use the oil weight the manufacturer recommends. Now I would also use a high-quality synthetic oil like Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec, but that would be up to you. But no matter what type I would stick to the recommendation unless you have a history of used oil analysis results to justify any deviation.
 
I was worried that might be the answer, and no laughs here. Honestly though I would be more worried about your transmission than your motor if you're taking an automatic to 6500 rpms with regularity.

Is it one of those transmissions that allows you to shift it like a manual, or are you physically keeeping the gear in D2 and the progressing to D3 and D4?

What automatic transmission fluid are you using?
 
Originally Posted By: jtaylor
but i run it through all the gears manually, its got separate 1, 2, 3, and d gears


Yeah that's what I was worried about. Well in that case I would focus on getting a really good synthetic automatic transmission fluid in that transmission and spend a little less time worrying about choosing a motor oil. Honestly, operating an automatic transmission like that is going to cause it to fail long before anything would ever happen to your motor.

But to answer the question you proposed in your thread title, yes you can use either of those two oils and the motor will be just fine. The main issue, that I addressed in your other thread and others have again covered here, is that your fuel economy will suffer a slight bit and the thicker grade will make your engine feel a bit sluggish and less rev happy.

I agree with the other recommendations here and a HDEO is not a bad idea. Take a look at the Shell Rotella T5 10w30. It's an extremely robust synthetic blend and would hold up well to whatever you throw at it. Honestly though I wouldn't write off Pennzoil Ultra so quickly just based on your one experience with their 5w20. I imagine based on the stress you put on the engine that the Ultra 5w30 would have been a better option for you.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom