Can I get away with just doing a pad slap?


Absolutely, it is critical to approach this with a meticulous attention to detail to ensure the longevity and functionality of your braking system. Given that your vehicle has clocked 52k miles, it is indeed a prudent time to inspect and possibly replace the brake components.

First and foremost, it is commendable that you are considering OE (Original Equipment) pads; they are designed to meet the exact specifications of your vehicle, ensuring optimal performance and safety.

Now, regarding the "pad slap" you are contemplating, it is indeed a viable option under the current circumstances you described - the rotors are not grooved and there is no pedal pulsation. However, I would strongly advise against taking this route without a comprehensive evaluation of the entire braking system.

Here is a structured approach to ensure a successful pad slap:

  1. Rotor Inspection:
    Although you mentioned that the rotors are not grooved, a more detailed inspection is necessary. Check for any signs of wear, such as uneven surfaces or slight grooves that might not be visible through a casual inspection. The rotor thickness should also be measured to ensure it meets the minimum thickness specification stipulated in the service manual.

  2. Hardware Inspection and Lubrication:
    Replacing the hardware and lubricating the slide pins is a step in the right direction. Ensure to use high-quality brake lubricant to prevent any squeaking noises and to facilitate smooth operation.

  3. Brake Fluid:
    It would be a good practice to check the brake fluid level and quality. If the fluid is dark and contaminated, a brake fluid change is recommended to maintain the optimal performance of the braking system.

  4. Bedding Process:
    After installing the new pads, it is essential to bed them in properly to ensure a smooth and noise-free operation. This involves a series of gradual and controlled braking actions to properly mate the new pads with the existing rotors.

  5. Continuous Monitoring: Post the pad slap, keep a close eye on the braking performance. Any signs of irregularities should be addressed promptly to prevent further complications.
In conclusion, while a pad slap can be a cost-effective solution, it should not be undertaken lightly. A meticulous approach will ensure safety and prolong the lifespan of your braking system. Remember, when it comes to vehicle maintenance, cutting corners can lead to more expensive repairs down the line.
Chat GPT, is that you?
 
I have pad slapped twice. And had pulsing in about 5-10,000 miles each time.

It is not worth the savings or the effort.
I have pad slapped more than twice. Brembo or OEM rotors, good quality, and, as well stated by The Critic, cleaned & indexed the rotors and checked for runout upon reinstall. I've gotten 30-50K more on rotors like this, BUT, my wife drives pretty gently, and I've no doubt, YMMV, so I'm NOT trying to doubt you. I guess we just got different results. :) :)
 
I did just pads on my SantaFe at around 45K. The rotors looked great. 15K later they began to pulse and I had to replace the rotors. Should have done both originally.
More than likely, the OEM pads were rated "EE" — characterized as dusty and soft. However, most aftermarket pads available for that vehicle boast a superior "FF" friction rating, with some exceptional ones like those from PowerStop even achieving an "FG" rating. It is crucial to note that an increase in the friction rating of your pads, while utilizing the same OEM rotors, will inevitably lead to heightened rotor temperatures, gradually warping them out of shape.
 
2018 Elantra w/52k miles.

The front pad squealers have started making noise. Peaking through the rims, the meat on the pads indeed looks low.

The factory rotors are not grooved and there is no pedal pulsation when braking.

I'm wondering if I can get away with just doing a pad slap here (along with new hardware & lubing slide pins). I will be using OE pads.
Depends. If you got plenty of meat on the rotors above the rotor wear limit... then yes, a pad slap should be fine.
 
I don't know why you wouldn't remove what is likely 2 extra bolts for the caliper bracket, so you can remove, resurface and fluid film the face of the hub and rotor. It would take like a couple extra minutes.

Unless you live in the desert.
 
When I only did a pad slap, I still ended up having to replace the rotors in a short period of time there after. This causes me to have to pull the wheels and do what I should’ve done from the beginning. I’m not saying I wouldn’t do a pad slap again, depending on the situation at hand.
*Will I be getting rid of the car soon?
*Do I have a state inspection coming up soon?
*Money issues?
*Each one of us has our own scenario for why we would do this!
 
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Short answer, yes.

Long answer also yes but it comes with caveat that if you get pedal pulsations in the future now you know why. Truck was ran primarily in GA til I got it. No rust and perfect rotors so ya I pad slapped.
 
Don't that before, rubbing the pads back and forth on cement to roughen the pads works best, no brake squeal. ;)
 
I’ve never, ever needed to replace a rotor on a vehicle of which I was the sole driver. I wonder if having only ever driven manuals has anything to do with that?

I had to do front rotors on my dad’s truck when I inherited it. They were already warped when I got it at 22k miles. That’s just another data point to support never buying another Chevy truck. He was an old man and he drove like one.
 
2018 Elantra w/52k miles.

The front pad squealers have started making noise. Peaking through the rims, the meat on the pads indeed looks low.

The factory rotors are not grooved and there is no pedal pulsation when braking.

I'm wondering if I can get away with just doing a pad slap here (along with new hardware & lubing slide pins). I will be using OE pads.

It's a lightweight car, so you are probably fine. Not as much rotor wear on small cars.
 
Them rotors got to be trash before I replace them. Get some metallic pads and do some hard braking to keep the rotors clean. Just took the OE front rotors off my Gen Coupe a 135k miles or so, the rears still on till next time.
 
I don't know why you wouldn't remove what is likely 2 extra bolts for the caliper bracket, so you can remove, resurface and fluid film the face of the hub and replace the rotor. It would take like a couple extra minutes seconds.

Unless you live in the desert.

fixed that for you :sneaky:
 
At 52k normal miles yes, i can't see the rotors being shot already unless they were junk from the factory.
2020 Elantra at around 30000 miles
signal-2023-09-10-10-14-14-842.jpg
 
Not even close.

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