Calling all brake experts!

[W8liftr]

I'm going to be installing new Napa united rotors and ceramix pads on a 97 cavalier this weekend and have a question about burnishing/bedding the pads and rotors. I haven't found any info on whether or not the process is different with ceramic pads. Looking on-line hasn't helped much because each manufacturer seems to have their own procedures, some more complicated than others. GM's electronic service manual for 97 cavaliers instructs drivers to only make 20 stops from 30mph using firm pedal pressure and to stop at least every 15 seconds without overheating the brakes.

Does anyone have any recommendations for my application and specific pad compound? The car is going to see heavy city driving.

BTW, the brake system in the car is in great shape, except for needing new rotors--fluid is flushed annually, rear brakes were serviced 4 months ago, no leaks, and no caliper problems.

TIA

 

[pitzel]

From all the reading I have done in the past few months before selecting Raybestos Quietstops for my early 1990s GM car, I could not find anyone who claimed that there was a break-in procedure required for ceramic pads. Your car would not have been equipped with ceramic pads as OEM, so the factory break-in instructions may very well be different.

When I installed them, I took the car out onto the highway, made a few harder slowdowns (do not come to a complete stop). No rotor warping, brakes work great.

 

[cousincletus]

I just did the brakes on my 2002 Cavalier last month and didn't do anything special to break in the pads. I figured I'd do at least 10-20 stops from 30-45 mph that day anyway. I just drove the car normally. I replaced the rotors with cheap ones and used the cheap semi-metallic pads from the discount parts store. So far so good. The car stops really well (seems to stop better than it ever did) and doesn't shake when I brake anymore. BTW you'll need a 3/8" allen socket to remove your calipers.

 

[labman]

quote:

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Originally posted by cousincletus:
snip... BTW you'll need a 3/8" allen socket to remove your calipers.

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Strange! I am almost sure the caliper bolts on my 81 Phoenix were metric. I had a terrible time with the ones on my 92 Grand AM before I finally tried 3/8 Allen wrench. One of the few non metric fasteners I ever found on it. Not sure what the threads were.

 

[labman]

quote:

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Originally posted by W8liftr:
snip...
BTW, the brake system in the car is in great shape, except for needing new rotors--fluid is flushed annually, rear brakes were serviced 4 months ago, no leaks, and no caliper problems.

TIA

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If you have gone through a few sets of pads in your heavy city driving, how good of shape are the piston seals? Do the boots still have enough elasticity and resiliency to keep out the salt and grit? Maybe time to rebuild/replace. Flushing the fluid is no substitute for renewing aged, worn rubber parts. Many times an old caliper that was working fine, leaks or sticks when pushed back in for new pads.

 

[W8liftr]

Labman,
I was going to make sure to check the boots and seals to make sure they're still ok. I'm pretty compulsive when it comes to vehicle maintenance, so everything's going to get checked out and any problems addressed.

I was looking for an excuse to by a set of allen sockets for the job, but it turns out that the 3/8 socket I've used with my camaro will work. Took a wheel off a few days ago to to confirm. Guess I'll have to find something else that needs some allen sockets

 

[Fuelrod]

The new pads and the new rotors should fall in love after a few normal stops..NAPA rotors usually come with a protective coating on them..Brake Kleen or carb cleaner will remove it. Big mess if you don't clean it off....