Caliper slide pin keeps getting stuck

[Klutch9]

One of the pins on the driver's front of my van is now stuck for the second time. The first time, there were no symptoms, just found it during a routine brake lube job. I had found some mild rust on the pin; not sure how, since the boots are in good shape and I use Sil-glide routinely. Anyway, I wire brushed and re-lubed, but now it's stuck again, and making noise this time. I'm guessing that a new slide pin won't fix the issue, but I'll need a new bracket as well, since that's where the pins sit in. Sounds reasonable?

 

[demarpaint]

It sounds reasonable, however I would check out the caliper and rule it out.

 

[Donald]

You should not wire brush the pins. Wipe with a rag, if still rusty or pitted, replace.

Like a piston in a caliper, if a pin has rust the plating is compromised. Only solution is to replace.

 

[spk2000]

If it has happened more than once I would get a new pin. Other option is to clean the caliper and pin real good and regrease them. Depends on if you have more time or money and how much you want to keep tearing it down.

 

[Klutch9]

Replacing the pin is a given, but I think I should replace the bracket also. If the pin is seized with rust, I'd imagine the hole where the pins sits isn't in great shape either. I don't have a ton of time to mess with this stuff, and a bracket is like $22, so might be worth it to just replace both. How would I go about checking the caliper itself?

 

[HangFire]

Some questions. Are the two pins different? If so, they have a different position, even if they kinda work when swapped.

Are there rubber boots or rubber bushings? If not, maybe there should be and they are missing? If so, most likely time to replace them.

Any other missing brake hardware? Clips or tensioners are sometimes tossed by shops and they serve a purpose.

Mr. Tire did that to me on the 94 dakota front disc brakes, they have a funky tensioner bar that goes across the brake, had to buy another set at the dealer to replace them. Same brake tech that tossed them lectured me for doing the brakes wrong, his brake job lasted less than 5K before massive shudder, mine lasted 10K. It's been 2 decades since that happened, gotta let it go! Anyway that experience set me on the path to learning what I know today about brakes.

 

[BigD1]

Check the price on a semi-loaded caliper and bracket...includes pins. Eclipse from NAPA are painted black ready to install.

 

[Klutch9]

Originally Posted by HangFire
Some questions. Are the two pins different? If so, they have a different position, even if they kinda work when swapped.

Are there rubber boots or rubber bushings? If not, maybe there should be and they are missing? If so, most likely time to replace them.

Any other missing brake hardware? Clips or tensioners are sometimes tossed by shops and they serve a purpose.

Mr. Tire did that to me on the 94 dakota front disc brakes, they have a funky tensioner bar that goes across the brake, had to buy another set at the dealer to replace them. Same brake tech that tossed them lectured me for doing the brakes wrong, his brake job lasted less than 5K before massive shudder, mine lasted 10K. It's been 2 decades since that happened, gotta let it go! Anyway that experience set me on the path to learning what I know today about brakes.


The two pins are different. Maybe I should try swapping them or compare to the other side. Unfortunately there's really no way of knowing what way they should be without buying a new loaded caliper.

 

[ls973800]

The two pins are different. Maybe I should try swapping them or compare to the other side. Unfortunately there's really no way of knowing what way they should be without buying a new loaded caliper.



Here is a link to a post I made about 6 or 7 months ago regardding the correct positioning of the different pins. Maybe this will help you.

Slide Pin Location

 

[Hall]

Originally Posted by Klutch9
The two pins are different. Maybe I should try swapping them or compare to the other side. Unfortunately there's really no way of knowing what way they should be without buying a new loaded caliper.

If the pins are different, I'd say that's the root of your problem.

What vehicle is this ? There are certainly ways to determine the proper location vs buying a new caliper.

 

[Imp4]

Originally Posted by Klutch9
The two pins are different. Maybe I should try swapping them or compare to the other side. Unfortunately there's really no way of knowing what way they should be without buying a new loaded caliper.

Woah, slow down...
Do an internet search for the parts diagram.
Usually available through AutoZone or a dealership website.
Look at how it is supposed to be and then make sure yours matches.
Let's not start guessing how things go in a braking system.
Especially when it is very easy to get it right...

 

[maxdustington]

Sounds like the rubber bushings that surround the pin are swollen. I had the same issue when I put my snowies on last year, and my pads were worn unevenly. The pin was dry so I assumed that the Syl-Glyde I used had washed off or melted off or something. I thought I did not apply enough lube, as I try to not be messy with greases on brakes because I don't want them to get drip onto the rotor or pads.

I've watched a few Eric O vids and he goops the slide pins pretty good. I also finally dropped the coin on a bottle of 3M silicone paste ($50 CAD, ouch) because I don't like the 5% silicone content of syl-glyde and often find it gets thicker and turns yellow after less than a year.

You might be able to get the rubber bushings out of a caliper rebuild kit and replace just the bushings and see how it goes. The kits are really cheap, but the Carlson rebuild kits I purchased contained only the dust boot, seal pistons and bleeder cap. I know ATE rebuild kits contain all of the rubber components for the caliper.

 

[JTK]

Like you say, if it's happening that frequently and the grease isn't showing signs of contamination from water/grit, there's something mechanically wrong going on.

I've never done it, but I've seen guys ream/clean out the pin bores with a gun barrel brush, drill bit or emery paper. Obviously spray clean it spotless afterwards, re-grease, etc.

I clean mine with a rag or Q-tip.

 

[The_Jeff]

If you have two pins, more'n likely the thinner one goes in the hole with the rubber, and the thicker one has a hole free from rubber.

But find a diagram to be sure.

 

[Hall]

What vehicle is the OP referring to ? Said it's a "van" so it's neither of the vehicles in his/her signature.

 

[HangFire]

It would be the Sedona, which is a mini van.

Lets sort out pin position, but also keep in mind there may be more than one problem.

 

[HangFire]

Originally Posted by maxdustington
Sounds like the rubber bushings that surround the pin are swollen. I had the same issue when I put my snowies on last year, and my pads were worn unevenly. The pin was dry so I assumed that the Syl-Glyde I used had washed off or melted off or something. I thought I did not apply enough lube, as I try to not be messy with greases on brakes because I don't want them to get drip onto the rotor or pads.

I've watched a few Eric O vids and he goops the slide pins pretty good. I also finally dropped the coin on a bottle of 3M silicone paste ($50 CAD, ouch) because I don't like the 5% silicone content of syl-glyde and often find it gets thicker and turns yellow after less than a year.


MSDS says 60% or more Poly(Dimethylsiloxane). I'm ready to try something new.
https://www.msdsdigital.com/3m-silicone-paste-clear-08946-08932-msds
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Silicone-Paste/?N=5002385+3293194053&rt=rud

 

[Lubener]

Originally Posted by Donald
You should not wire brush the pins. Wipe with a rag, if still rusty or pitted, replace.

Like a piston in a caliper, if a pin has rust the plating is compromised. Only solution is to replace.

+1

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted by HangFire
Originally Posted by maxdustington
Sounds like the rubber bushings that surround the pin are swollen. I had the same issue when I put my snowies on last year, and my pads were worn unevenly. The pin was dry so I assumed that the Syl-Glyde I used had washed off or melted off or something. I thought I did not apply enough lube, as I try to not be messy with greases on brakes because I don't want them to get drip onto the rotor or pads.

I've watched a few Eric O vids and he goops the slide pins pretty good. I also finally dropped the coin on a bottle of 3M silicone paste ($50 CAD, ouch) because I don't like the 5% silicone content of syl-glyde and often find it gets thicker and turns yellow after less than a year.


MSDS says 60% or more Poly(Dimethylsiloxane). I'm ready to try something new.
https://www.msdsdigital.com/3m-silicone-paste-clear-08946-08932-msds
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Silicone-Paste/?N=5002385+3293194053&rt=rud
The reviews for Mission silicone paste make it seem better than the 3M and is half the price, but I can't get it in Canada:
https://www.amazon.com/Mission-Automotive-Dielectric-Silicone-Waterproof
/dp/B016E5E59G

 

[Dave9]

https://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-DBL-2T-Brake-Lube-Brush/dp/B0015RCGRM

https://www.amazon.ca/Raybestos-DBL-2T-Brake-Lube-Brush/dp/B0015RCGRM