bypass valves

[90mustang]

Hey to you all! This is my first post. I have been cutting open oil filters for the 302 V8 Ford.I have cut open the Purolator PL 30001, Bosch 3500, K&N and the Fram XG8A. There is quite a difference in the bypass design. The Purolator has the strangest shape, is at the bottom and is the hardest to push with my thumb. The Bosch is just a metal disk at the bottom. The Fram has a spring loaded plastic disc at the bottom. The K&N is at the threaded end, I guess with the anti drain back valve. What are anyones thoughts on the valve location and design?
This is a cool site. It is the only place I can talk about my hobby!

 

[labman]

Most people feel the bypass at the threaded end is better, because the oil that is bypassed doesn't flow over the dirty outside of the media to pick up all the crud filtered out. Cardboard end caps don't upset me as much as others. I do object to skimpy amounts of filter area.

 

[jsharp]

I've got a 90 Mustang 5.0L myself.

On a Motorcraft FL-1A the bypass is on the threaded end recommended by Ford. You can get them for $2.77 at Walmart. I think they are good filters and I use them on everything...

[ January 29, 2004, 05:41 PM: Message edited by: jsharp ]

 

[90mustang]

Thanks for the response! I have a Motorcraft FL-1A on the wife's Ford Ranger. It will be the next victim in my diabolical dissection (insert evil mad scientist laugh here)

. Then a Wix 51515. Fun! Fun! Fun!
I have had my lil' horse for 10 years and 127k miles. I have switched to Havoline dino form Valvoline conventional after reding this site and companies web site.

 

[TC]

Echoing Labman's comments, here's a good primer on bypass location: http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lubrication-oilpart2.htm

As for bypass design, nobody know's how a given bypass design will work in the real world except the engineers who designed them. I've heard of folks managing to "stick" certain valves open while examining and manipulating them with a screwdriver. Hard to say if this would happen in the real world when oil pressure is pushing the plunger evenly on all its edges. But common sense still applies: A bigger plunger and opening should be able to flow more. A simpler design is more reliable. Steel components are more reliable than plastic. "Flimsy" looking components should be considered just that in terms of their performance. And stuff that's suspicious in how it might perform (hello, Champion clicker valve)...well, I'll personally avoid them (one beer worshiper's opinion).