Bypass for a 98 Ranger??

[oilpan49]

Hey,

My Ranger has a 2.5L 4banger in it. Just turned 61K the other day. Is it too late to go to bypass or just keep sticking with a M1 filter and oil? which is what I"m currently running. If it is ok to go with Bypass I will choose the motor guard from Ralph Wood.

The oil is 0w30. The Ranger is as quiet as a mouse at idle, doesn't skip a beat. What does everyone think here?? Too late or what??

BTW, I still find it hard to believe that for however you long you have your car/truck for say 10 years or longer maybe, that you never have to change the oil. I know I make it sound like "yea right" like but for someone new to the idea such as myself I'm quite a skeptic. Thanks,,,,AR

[ April 25, 2004, 09:21 PM: Message edited by: Airborne Ranger ]

 

[deepsquat]

it is never too late to add a bypass, as for never changing your oil..you still need to change it..just not as often ..I have gone as far as 30000 miles and it was still probably good for 10-15000 more ...mobile 1 ..I now have pennzoil longlife in for the past 15-20000m miles .Gonna do a analysis soon .

 

[rugerman1]

AR ,
I just installed a Gulf Coast O1-jr bypass filter on my rust-free '89 S-10.The truck has 139K miles and was originally from Florida.I imagine the engine will still be purring long after rust eats the sheet metal away here in salt country.

Like Ralph said once:It's not how many miles are on the vehicle,it's how many more miles you want it to run.
As far as long drain intervals,go with what your comfortable with.With 3K TP element intervals,10K to 15K miles/one year runs should not be hard with many $1 to $2 oils.Who knows how long with a quality synthetic?

Also,The filter is basically a lifetime product.You get tired of the current vehicle,transfer it to your next one.Done deal.

Mark

[ April 25, 2004, 10:13 PM: Message edited by: rugerman1 ]

 

[RalphPWood]

Airborne Ranger,

I called the Motor Guard people about 25 years ago and found out they had converted to industrial filtration and had no intention of going back to the automotive filters. I had signed up as a Frantz oil cleaner dealer in 1963 and a Motor Guard dealer in 1966 when they first started. One of my old Motor Guard customers had a friend with a Toyota Corolla with about 100 thousand miles. He was concerned that it had too many miles to install a filter. I installed a Frantz oil cleaner with a Frantz sandwich adapter. About 15 years later he had over 500 thousand miles on it.
I am big on adapters. Frantz was big on adapters. All Motor Guard ever had was converters that eliminated the almost worthless full flow filters. One of my customers told me about using the Perma-Cool sandwich adapter on his Ford mini van. I soon discovered that I could make the Perma-Cool adapters do anything the Frantz adapters could do. The old Motor Guards were the least messy to change of the filters because they filtered from the bottom up. The M-30 will filter either way but they are labeled to filter from the top down.
I have settled on NYLATRON for the internal parts machined to fit the new paper. The old M-100 was designed for the 1 1/2"ID paper. Its a labor of love. My machinist just called me. He has a prototype finished to convert the universal 189 Perma-Cool adapter to fit a Dodge Cummins. I am doing a new Dodge Cummins for a U2 pilot and he is fussy. He wants all of the fluids clean. I pulled the filters off his nearly new Ford Powerstroke King Ranch and we are waiting for the Dodge.
I would recommend the Ford 771-181 adapter for the Ranger. The 771-189 would be good if you trade rigs because you could save the bushings and adapt it to other engines. The 771 is a www.jegs.com number
I normally change the filter often enough so that I never need to drain the oil. That would be about every 4,000 miles with the 4 cylinder. Some will go longer then change the oil and filters. Its a matter of keeping the oil clean 100% of the time and adding enough new oil to keep the additive package up to the right amount. Some want extended oil drains and some just want the oil clean between changes. The system of oil getting dirty and the filter staying clean has never made sense unless you are selling oil changes.

Ralph

 

[oilpan49]

Hey,

This is what I had in mind for my order list.

MG 30 bypass filter

Hoses, I have no clue

get the Ford perma cool adaptor kit.

Install the filter and just maintain everything from there.

I have no idea if the hoses come with the filter or if you have to order them seperately. Thanks everyone,,,,,,Ar

 

[rugerman1]

AR ,
Sounds like a good plan to me.Go to Ralph's website BypassFilter.com and check out the products.
The only deviation I might have is to use a Frantz filter adapter and reurn the oil to the pan or valve cover.

Mark

 

[RalphPWood]

Airborne Ranger,
The basic M-30 for 118.00 is just the filter with a mounting bracket and a 1/16" orifice. That is how most people want them. Then they buy their own hose and fittings. The universal filter with hose and fittings will have fittings you dont need. Most of the filters I sell are used with the Perma-Cool adapters. The universal kit will have what you need for the adapter. The truck hose is for rough use such as what you might have on construction equipment. I furnish the hose with hose barbs and stainless steel clamps. I like to use larger hose because the fittings are larger and stronger. You can install the filter and measure and have hose made to the proper length. The next material up from (CPE) is teflon as far as oil and fuel compatable.
Somethings people will buy the basic filter then when they start to install the filter I get a call; where are the hose and fittings?

Ralph

 

[oilpan49]

Ralph and rugerman,

Thanks for helping me out here. I apologize If I caused any headaches for either of you because I'm new to the bypass idea still.

I was browsing over at the wefilterit.com site for installation hardware and such. For me, it's very confusing and I don't want to order stuff that I don't need nor too much of something I do need. I think I will go with the perma-cool adaptors. I'm sure they work just fine for what I need and jegs makes it alot easier to order. Thanks again

,,,,AR

 

[msparks]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Airborne Ranger:
Ralph and rugerman,
For me, it's very confusing and I don't want to order stuff that I don't need nor too much of something I do need. Thanks again

,,,,AR

---

That is where the Amsoil system comes into play, not too confusing since it comes with everything you need. Though if you choose BMK11 you could still use the perma-cool adapter if you don't want to punch a hole in your oil pan.

Too bad your stuck on the motorguard

 

[RalphPWood]

MSParks,

AR isnt stuck on the Motor Guard. Ralph is stuck on the Motor Guard. AR is still gathering information. He will sort it out.

Ralph

 

[RJCorazza]

I installed (2) Motor Guards on my vehicles using the PermaCool adapters and the installs went without a hitch. I would have gone with the Amsoil dual remote but the $26 bypass filter was a little pricey. The flip side is that replacing the TP element 4 times per year (with 4 quarts of makeup oil) is almost as expensive with synthetic oil. So I'm at about $4 less per year, and hopefully no oil change for 2 years (I'll do a UOA at 1 year or 20k).
I put (2) Frantz filters on my diesel tractor and the math there is a no-brainer. Not that Amsoil needs a "plug", but I have Amsoil fluids in everything I own.

 

[oilpan49]

Hey,

Msparks, I have no doubt in my mind that the Amsoil dual remote setup is a **** good bypass system, although for my mechanical skills it seems too involved. I could do it but it If I screw up 1 thing on that truck especially the oil system, I'm screwed!! I have a basic understanding of how to work on cars, but I am anything but an expert I assure you.

I think I will go with the Motorguard and the perma cool adaptor from jegs. Thanks guys for your help

,,,,AR

 

[msparks]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Airborne Ranger:
Hey,

Msparks, I have no doubt in my mind that the Amsoil dual remote setup is a **** good bypass system, although for my mechanical skills it seems too involved.

---

So why does it seem that everyone forgets about the single filter system that Amsoil has? I have the BMK 11 on my VW Jetta. I have 15,000 miles on the filter and it's still doing well. I'll be changing that at the 20,000 mile mark after I do a sample. This is a single spin on system, you can buy replacement filters for $20-$25 depending on the capacity that you want. I have the mid sized filter on my Jetta, it holds 1.5 quarts.

This is what it looks like:

I will install just like the motor guard if you want to use the perma-cool adapter. But the best thing is that it comes with real connectors, hydraulic quality hoses and connectors.

Just thought you would want to know.

[ April 30, 2004, 08:56 AM: Message edited by: msparks ]

 

[RalphPWood]

quote:

---

Originally posted by RJCorazza:
I installed (2) Motor Guards on my vehicles using the PermaCool adapters and the installs went without a hitch. I would have gone with the Amsoil dual remote but the $26 bypass filter was a little pricey. The flip side is that replacing the TP element 4 times per year (with 4 quarts of makeup oil) is almost as expensive with synthetic oil. So I'm at about $4 less per year, and hopefully no oil change for 2 years (I'll do a UOA at 1 year or 20k).
I put (2) Frantz filters on my diesel tractor and the math there is a no-brainer. Not that Amsoil needs a "plug", but I have Amsoil fluids in everything I own.

---

It all comes down to judgement of the equipment owner. In 1984 I brought home a new Subaru. I changed the gear oil to Amsoil which I never drained. I also installed a Frantz and Amsoil 15-40. I changed the Frantz every 12,000 mi. which was about once a year. I had some viscosity increase and changed to Mobil 1 at 38,000 mi. The Mobil 1 had some oxidation problems. It was a very hot running engine. I averaged an oil change every 60,000 mi. in 240,000 mi. The lab told me that I probably should have drained the oil every 50,000 mi. It is a matter of superior filtration and adding enough new oil. The Frantz was doing its job but I was expecting too much from the oil. One of the advantages of the larger filters is you are adding more new oil at filter change.
From the tests I have seen you get much longer engine life with clean conventional oil that has had enough filter changes then synthetic that isnt as clean because of filter changes extended too far. It is like 10,000 mile oil drain intervals with normal filtration. There is no way the engine will last as long as it will with 3,000 mile changes. Watch out for recommendations. They are mostly a marketing tool. If you let the oil get dirty it must be drained.

Ralph

[ April 30, 2004, 06:34 PM: Message edited by: RalphPWood ]

 

[oilpan49]

Something else that concerns me. Should I stick with the M1 0w30 I'm running now or switch to 5w30?? Or does it really matter??

I'm also hearing some talk around the forum that 40wt oils can be better for your engine as far as sealing pistons rings and just lubricating better than 30wt oils. Is this true or what?? Thanks again,,,,AR

 

[msparks]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Airborne Ranger:
Something else that concerns me. Should I stick with the M1 0w30 I'm running now or switch to 5w30?? Or does it really matter??

I'm also hearing some talk around the forum that 40wt oils can be better for your engine as far as sealing pistons rings and just lubricating better than 30wt oils. Is this true or what?? Thanks again,,,,AR

---

If you don't have excees consumption I would stick with the lighter stuff, since you oil will be so clean with whatever by-pass filter you are using you will have good sealing regardless.

If you have excess consumption, then go up to an xw40.

Hope this helps

 

[oilpan49]

hey msparks,

Thanks for clearing that up.

I always thought that 40wt oils were better for higher mileage engines over 75K miles or more. As of now the Ranger uses very little oil, doesn't burn nor leak anywhere. Thus far, I have about 1000 miles on the oil, maybe alittle more. To date I never added 1 drop to the oil and the dipstick remains a hairline under full with a nice golden color to it. I average about 18-20K a yr and I drive like normal. No radical or crazy stuff. The way I see it is, it's only a 4banger Ranger, pretty simple. So there's really not much there to play around with especially when I'm passing a car, even that doesn't happen very often.

Thanks again for the clarification,,,,,AR