Buying a Used Car... Mileage vs. Age

[willbur]

This is a stupid rule. IF you followed it you'd be getting rid of a 6 year old car with 70k miles, since it would equal "13." Or a 3 year old car with 100k miles, representing all highway miles (which represents about 10k in actual use, factoring hwy miles are meaninglessly simple). Or a 10 year old car with only 30k miles. That's pretty much when you should be BUYING used cars. lol.

Buying something like this would be almost the BEST possible time/miles to buy a car, lol. Maximizing profit, minimizing loss, minimizing use.

The fleet manager was maximizing $$$ return on used cars, at the best financial sweet spot- not trying to find the best hooptie to drive like you. Two different ideas and goals.
The fleet manager was not a stupid person, btw. His fleet cars got top dollar at auction sales- "stupid rule" worked for him

 

[doublebase]

You know what the problem is with the question? That makes it difficult to answer? The age of the vehicles aren't all that far apart, five years isn't all that much - if you said 10 years or 15 years, I'd go with the newer vehicle, even with the higher mileage...newer technology, rubber bushings are going to be in better shape, rust, paint....all of that should look better on the newer vehicle (IF there is a 10-15 year spread). But with only a five year difference, I'd probably go with the lower mileage vehicle. IMO.

 

[doublebase]

This is a stupid rule. IF you followed it you'd be getting rid of a 6 year old car with 70k miles, since it would equal "13." Or a 3 year old car with 100k miles, representing all highway miles (which represents about 10k in actual use, factoring hwy miles are meaninglessly simple). Or a 10 year old car with only 30k miles. That's pretty much when you should be BUYING used cars. lol.

Buying something like this would be almost the BEST possible time/miles to buy a car, lol. Maximizing profit, minimizing loss, minimizing use.

Stupid rule? This is fleet business he's talking about and it is wide spread across many large fleets. Warranty plays a roll in fleet decisions, when it's out of warranty the big ticket items are no longer covered and it leads to risk of not only a down vehicle, but a $3,000-$4,000 dollar transmission going on the vehicle. Meanwhile if you send it to the auction you'll get more of a return in sale price. There is a sweet spot for these things.

You also have to consider what a vehicle down for repairs costs a company, especially one that is going to be down for a while. It's tough to have someone driving a vehicle 500-1000 miles a week, and then have that vehicle be in the shop every other week because of intake leaks, broken struts and steering racks, check engine lights, stuck calipers and everything else...over and over again.

 

[willbur]

Stupid rule? This is fleet business he's talking about and it is wide spread across many large fleets. Warranty plays a roll in fleet decisions, when it's out of warranty the big ticket items are no longer covered and it leads to risk of not only a down vehicle, but a $3,000-$4,000 dollar transmission going on the vehicle. Meanwhile if you send it to the auction you'll get more of a return in sale price. There is a sweet spot for these things.

You also have to consider what a vehicle down for repairs costs a company, especially one that is going to be down for a while. It's tough to have someone driving a vehicle 500-1000 miles a week, and then have that vehicle be in the shop every other week because of intake leaks, broken struts and steering racks, check engine lights, stuck calipers and everything else...over and over again.

You explained it perfectly.

 

[The Critic]

Must have been a LONG time ago. This method would say a 3 year old car with 100k miles is ready for replacement. I would be fine buying a 6 year old car with 200 k miles. So the method is rather outdated.

That is still the norm for many fleets. 3/75 or 3/100K.

 

[avacado11]

I would get the lower mileage one ONLY if it is priced reasonably(not marked up due to low mileage) and only plan to keep it for a year or two.

If it is marked up and/or I plan to keep it for a long time, i would just get the newer one. Will probably be a better deal and mileage wouldn’t matter at that point.

Remember high mileage and branded titles only effect the sale, not the ownership.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

From a mechanical stand point I don't think it matters because some parts fail due to either age or miles. However one factor is how the vehicle is stored. Ex, 4 yr old 30k miles, street parked, from Arizona vs a 6 yr old 60k mile car from NC which was always parked under cover.

 

[Vern_in_IL]

a 2011 with 50,000 miles (5k/yr), or a 2016 with 100,000 miles (20k/yr).

I would go with the 2016, keep in MIND of economic events also! A 2011 was just coming out of the 2008/09 economic depression. I would buy the 2016 because several years of stability coming up to that date. I would avoid 2009-2013(+?) models, and any 2021-2023 models.

When economic events happen, people get laid off, moved around, and chaos. The only vehicle immured from this was the Nissan Frontier last gen.