Busted bolt in rotor

[pda1122]

Happy Memorial Day everyone!
In dealing with my severely rusted wheel area on the tundra, I broke off two bolts in the holes of my front passenger side rotor trying to dislodge rotor from the hub. I gave up as it was getting late and not having a big enough sledge hammer. Ive been keeping an eye on the rotor temp and it seems to only run 20 degrees warmer than the other side. Is this something I can not worry about for a little bit or do I need to try and get the rotor off/get bolts out ASAP? I put new brake pads and rotors in the rear with lots of issue after having to deal with stuck wheel and rotors but eventually got the rotors off by using the bolt holes. I just bought a 8lb sledge to assist in my issue and hopefully will do the trick. I have new rotors and pads for the front. I just need to remember to use penetrating oil!
Thanks.

 

[maxdustington]

You should get an air hammer as opposed to a BFH. Air hammer + atf/acetone is what I would try. Plumbers torch, penetrating oil and the air hammer should help work it off without tuckering you out.

EDIT: No penetrating oil, eh? How luxuious! You could probably just get by with PB Blaster then. I assume any rusty suspension component is going to get pre-oiled, but then again I live in Canada.

 

[Trav]

You can use a cutoff wheel to cut most of the way through the rotor where it sits on the hub then finish cracking it loose with a cold chisel, a sawzall also works well used diagonally.
I don't care for beating them senseless with a sledge or heating them too much with a torch, its not healthy for the bearings.

 

[mehullica]

It’s not a good idea to drive it with only 3 lugnuts holding the wheel on. I’d replace the studs ASAP.

 

[Kira]

You were using a puller or what?

 

[pda1122]

Its not the wheel lug nuts (or bolt). There are 2 screw holes in the rotor to help assist in taking them off with a M8 x 1.25 bolt by pressing rotor out while being screwed into the hub. These bolts broke off due to corrosion around the hub

 

[93cruiser]

Originally Posted By: pda1122
Its not the wheel lug nuts (or bolt). There are 2 screw holes in the rotor to help assist in taking them off with a M8 x 1.25 bolt by pressing rotor out while being screwed into the hub. These bolts broke off due to corrosion around the hub


if the rotor is still secure, sounds like it is, you are fine.

I'm surprised the rotor did not pop off using the two bolts. Sure you had the right thread pitch? Did you turn in at even increments? Never had this happen. When you get the old rotor off problem solved.

 

[Hall]

You don't "need" those (2) fasteners. They're primarily used for assembly help but you can use 1-2 lug nuts in place of them when working on your brakes.

Go back to the rear wheels and apply anti-seize to the faces where the rotor sits against the hub as well as some around the inner diameter of the hub where it slides over the hub. When you get the front rotors off, do the same.

 

[Kestas]

I once had to break up rotors to get them off. They were hopelessly corroded onto the hub. Maine must be one of the worst places for corrosion.

If the rotors are fine otherwise (thick enough, don't need to be turned), you may consider leaving them in place.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: hallstevenson
Go back to the rear wheels and apply anti-seize to the faces where the rotor sits against the hub as well as some around the inner diameter of the hub where it slides over the hub. When you get the front rotors off, do the same.

For what it's worth a better material to use is Molykote 3452 which is a high-temperature fluorosilicone grease (sort of a poor man's Krytox). It won't spread out nor will it be washed away by water. Granted it is relatively expensive but one tube lasts a long time. I use it every where I want parts to stay separated no matter what.