Buick Lacrosse 3.6 battery troubles

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Aug 27, 2014
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77
Location
usa
Hi,
I have a 2011 Buick Lacrosse(2nd gen) 3.6 V6. My dad bought it used with 20k miles and everytime the battery fails, there is no warning, it just does not try to start. My dad replaced the battery first when it would not start with an Interstate battery from Costco. That one failed after 3 years and was replaced under warranty. Now with that 2-1/2 year old replacement battery, I own the car and I went to leave work on Thursday, and it would not start, just make a click when you turn the key. It did that a couple times and I waited a minute, tried again, and it started. I figured I need a new battery, so went to Costco in a different car with the battery and they even replaced that one under warranty to my surprise.
All I did was drive the car to work Friday, hour round trip. Went to start today (Sunday), and again it just clicked with turning the key again a few tries. So I checked the voltage with a multimeter and it was 12.38v with door closed and 12.08v with the door open(so interior lights on etc.). It actual started right up after that and was 15.05v idling. I drove somewhere and the car got me home later. Anyone know if those voltages sound okay? Not sure if it means much, maybe I gotta go to Napa and have it tested.
Just wondering if anyone has any experience with batteries failing so suddenly.
This is the battery: https://costco.interstatebatteries....72&choice4=1813275&choice5=1813276&Country=US
Thanks

Ps. I feel like there is something different with this cars electrical system than other cars I've had. It either starts right up, cranking easily, or it doesn't even try. Any other car I've owned would usually give a warning, by turning over slow especially on a suddenly cold day, so I'd know the battery is deteriorating.
 
These were nice cars, along with the Chevy Impala and Cadillac XTS which shared the same Epsilon II platform. Fairly common problem with these is the Onstar module creating a parasitic draw resulting in random dead batteries. Give that a look and see.
 
I went to leave work on Thursday, and it would not start, just make a click when you turn the key. It did that a couple times and I waited a minute, tried again, and it started.
Batteries don't magically heal themselves. Sounds more like a cable problem then a battery problem. Check voltage drop between the battery posts and terminals as well as grounds. Guessing there is some corrosion causing resistance.
 
AS mentioned above check cables for corrision and tightness - but this sounds more like a starter going bad and guess what? Starters are a common failure on the 3.6L motors,,,I have done several on 3.6 in CTS, Lacrosse, Camaro etc....prob changed 30 of em this year alone.
 
Did you test the voltage before you installed the new battery, maybe it wasn't fully charged from the factory or from sitting around. I would probably throw a battery charger on it and see what happens. At 12.38 it would take a long time for the alternator to fully charge it.
 
Batteries don't magically heal themselves. Sounds more like a cable problem then a battery problem. Check voltage drop between the battery posts and terminals as well as grounds. Guessing there is some corrosion causing resistance.
I agree with a cable problem. Check out the terminals, and work your way down each cable. Check your grounds. Check to see if there are any TSB's or Technical Bulletins regarding the charging system in any way. Check the internet, or head to your local GM shop and see if there are any super nice people willing to articulate the issues without trying to get you in for work. Its scummy, but I would act like I'm brining the car in and ask him questions about the issue. He may just tell you the problem they all have and with tons of knowledge just tell you what it is from experience, thinking you're bringing the car for service. Its shady, but its a great way to get a lot of technical info!!
Also, as a previous poster mentioned, batteries just don't die than work again a few minutes later. I think its a starter issue which may involve a software update, or replacement of computer items or the starter itself. I wish you the best of luck, and look forward to your post after the problem was solved!!
 
I had my mechanic take care of it, they determined it was definitely the starter. Haven't had a problem since.
Awesome. If you don't mind, what was the charge? Just curious... My Grandfather had the same model and although is was an awesome car, it had some issues early on. Mainly both rear wheel bearings at 8k and 12k, and an electrical issue that affected the trunk.
But **** they cornered well and had tons of power!!
 
Awesome. If you don't mind, what was the charge? Just curious... My Grandfather had the same model and although is was an awesome car, it had some issues early on. Mainly both rear wheel bearings at 8k and 12k, and an electrical issue that affected the trunk.
But **** they cornered well and had tons of power!!
It came to 404 before tax. He said the starter is behind the exhaust and hard to get to. The car is nice like you say but one weird thing is doing a brake job requires the open end of a wrench be narrow enough to fit the hex on the caliper slide pin on both front and rear of the car. This was previously my dad's car and he machined a 3/4" wrench narrower to do the front. I went to check the back brakes, it's smaller a smaller hex than the front, and again an old and new craftsman wrench does not fit and gearwrench brand does not either. Space to fit a wrench on the rear is around 0.275".
 
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