The ABS light came on on my 02 Buick Century and I found one of the wires to the wheel speed sensor broken. The break is at the hub and is very difficult to access. It appears that the fix for this is a new hub (wheel bearing) which is over $100 not to mention a lot of labor. Is there any way of soldering the wire back into the hub and would it work if I could? It seems silly to have to change a perfectly good wheel bearing over a broken wire.
Broken wheel sensor wire on GM
- Thread starter pbm
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My gf`s 1998 Olds 88`s ABS/Traction Control lights both came on months ago and have stayed on. Then the other day,the driver`s side front wheel bearing started making noise. Maybe when I replace it (I ordered the hub assembly yesterday) I`ll check and see if her`s is the same way.
Doesn't the sensor just bolt on externally? There should be a plug with wires going to the sensor.
What is broken?
What is broken?
No the sensor does not bolt on.
Kestas
Staff member
Some hub units have a replaceable snesor, others you need to replace the entire hub (sucks).
Originally Posted By: Kestas
Some hub units have a replaceable snesor, others you need to replace the entire hub (sucks).
Unfortunately, I have the latter (sucky) type. As I said it seems silly to change a good wheel bearing (hub) over a broken wire. I guess having no ABS (and possibly TC) as well as an ABS light glaring is a big negative so I'll probably change it but I'm not impressed with GM's engineering of this.
Some hub units have a replaceable snesor, others you need to replace the entire hub (sucks).
Unfortunately, I have the latter (sucky) type. As I said it seems silly to change a good wheel bearing (hub) over a broken wire. I guess having no ABS (and possibly TC) as well as an ABS light glaring is a big negative so I'll probably change it but I'm not impressed with GM's engineering of this.
Kestas
Staff member
I'm glad you properly blame GM and not the supplier (probably my company) for the design. Though our company has the capability to build top-notch bearings, it is the auto manufacturer that tells us where to cut costs and how to make the parts cheaper.
Kestas, thanks for providing that info. I suspected as much having seen a few thousand of the hubs replaced in my time.
You may not know the answer to this question, but roughly how much more would it have cost GM for you to build the bearing as it should have been?
You may not know the answer to this question, but roughly how much more would it have cost GM for you to build the bearing as it should have been?
Things are usually fixable -maybe by unconventional means.
I'd give it a shot. Maybe a paperclip jammed in the broken part, with solder then added. Then attach the other end.
I'd give it a shot. Maybe a paperclip jammed in the broken part, with solder then added. Then attach the other end.
JHZR2
Staff member
OK, dumb question - is this wire a coaxial type of some sort, or is it just a single conductor that is insulated?
If there is only one conductor in there, I would say that it should be super-easy to fix. Whether you want to solder it straight up and then seal it, or if you want to add a small "jumper" to give a bit more length, that is your call.
If it is a coaxial type with a foil type outer conductor, then you will have a harder time. Not impossible, Id probably pull back some more of the insulation, try to turn some of the foil into a pigtail on either end, then solder a conductor to each with regular wire. THe center conductor should still be very straightforward.
I like using brush-on electrical tape for a few initial layers, as it can get into crevices and keep water out, etc. Id wrap the whole assembly in real electrical tape then for further protection. Others might have other, better suggestions for sealing stuff up.
BTW, if it is just conductors straight up that you need to re-connect, likely crimp/solder/shrinkwrap type butt connectors, then coated and wrapped in tape will give a superior connection, bu take more work...
Good luck,
JMH
If there is only one conductor in there, I would say that it should be super-easy to fix. Whether you want to solder it straight up and then seal it, or if you want to add a small "jumper" to give a bit more length, that is your call.
If it is a coaxial type with a foil type outer conductor, then you will have a harder time. Not impossible, Id probably pull back some more of the insulation, try to turn some of the foil into a pigtail on either end, then solder a conductor to each with regular wire. THe center conductor should still be very straightforward.
I like using brush-on electrical tape for a few initial layers, as it can get into crevices and keep water out, etc. Id wrap the whole assembly in real electrical tape then for further protection. Others might have other, better suggestions for sealing stuff up.
BTW, if it is just conductors straight up that you need to re-connect, likely crimp/solder/shrinkwrap type butt connectors, then coated and wrapped in tape will give a superior connection, bu take more work...
Good luck,
JMH
Update: I ended up putting a new hub in and my problem is solved. Once I had the bearing out I could have soldered it but since it is original and has 100K on it I decided to change it.
PS: It's amazing how much the price of a replacement varied. No-name brands ran as low as $60 to name brands running up to nearly $200. I put a Timkin in which cost me $130. I could have saved $20 at Rockauto but I wanted to get it done. Are the $80 versions just as good or do you get what you pay for?
PS: It's amazing how much the price of a replacement varied. No-name brands ran as low as $60 to name brands running up to nearly $200. I put a Timkin in which cost me $130. I could have saved $20 at Rockauto but I wanted to get it done. Are the $80 versions just as good or do you get what you pay for?
Kestas
Staff member
You get what you pay for. Our company manufactures and sells OEM bearing hub units, and also markets aftermarket hub units made elsewhere (e.g., China). OEM units are stringently controlled for quality and performance... our feet are held to the fire by auto manufacturers. Aftermaket parts have considerably less quality. There's no wholesale check on the warranty of these parts. As long as the part doesn't come back for the mechanic's warranty, it's considered good. There's no feedback from the customer as to how long the aftermaket hub units last.
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