So I'm trying to decide which breaker bar to take. I am looking for a 3/8 drive. I can take one from harbor freight 17 in long for like $8 after coupon or take a craftsman 10 inches long for like $12 and use a cheater in necessary. HF made in Taiwan but longer while craftsman made in USA bu shorter? Which one would you buy (I can't look at a 1/2 in drive since I only have 3/8 drive sockets (yeah I'm a noob, lol)).
Breaker Bar
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If you can only have one, get the 10" and cheater. You can fit the 10" in various small angles, yet you can get the same leverage with a cheater.
I bought the big 1/2" drive 20 something incher from HF. I replaced the completely useless tire iron in my car with it. No way is that two sided stubby [censored] that comes with a car going to work. With the big breaker, got off some severely over torqued lug nuts with it, even got the bar to bend a bit, no problems.
I bought the big 1/2" drive 20 something incher from HF. I replaced the completely useless tire iron in my car with it. No way is that two sided stubby [censored] that comes with a car going to work. With the big breaker, got off some severely over torqued lug nuts with it, even got the bar to bend a bit, no problems.
Wait until christmas sales and buy a 1/2" drive socket set. I'm sure Sears will have one for under 50 bucks. Then buy a cast iron pipe. If you have limited money to spend you're better off with a basic 1/2" set than throwing money at 3/8" stuff and trying to make it work.
I bought one of these a few weeks back...
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202347350/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=husky+3%2F8&storeId=10051#.UH8VdMUxpOg
It has an extendable handle, which is nice. The flex head is also lockable. Not the highest tooth count in the world, but it's a $20 ratchet. You can also find it on the WalMart shelf branded Stanley. I think it's a little more at Walmart, though.
Here's a review of a bunch of 3/8 ratchets...
http://www.truckinweb.com/editorial/1210tr_truckin_tough_3_8_inch_ratchet_test/viewall.html
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202347350/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=husky+3%2F8&storeId=10051#.UH8VdMUxpOg
It has an extendable handle, which is nice. The flex head is also lockable. Not the highest tooth count in the world, but it's a $20 ratchet. You can also find it on the WalMart shelf branded Stanley. I think it's a little more at Walmart, though.
Here's a review of a bunch of 3/8 ratchets...
http://www.truckinweb.com/editorial/1210tr_truckin_tough_3_8_inch_ratchet_test/viewall.html
One thing I have done is to get a reduction bit for a 1/2" ratchet and use it on your breaker bar.
It will allow you to purchase a 1/2" drive breaker bar and place your 3/8" sockets on it.
If you buy the kit it also works the other way around. Your 3/8" ratchet can use your 1/2" drive sockets
I'm not sure why you would want to unless you were in some tight situations.
Oh yeah and +1 on the cheater bar.
It will allow you to purchase a 1/2" drive breaker bar and place your 3/8" sockets on it.
If you buy the kit it also works the other way around. Your 3/8" ratchet can use your 1/2" drive sockets
I'm not sure why you would want to unless you were in some tight situations.
Oh yeah and +1 on the cheater bar.
Originally Posted By: bepperb
Wait until christmas sales and buy a 1/2" drive socket set. I'm sure Sears will have one for under 50 bucks. Then buy a cast iron pipe. If you have limited money to spend you're better off with a basic 1/2" set than throwing money at 3/8" stuff and trying to make it work.
+1 on that cast iron pipe. Simply went to a hardware store and had them cut maybe a 36-inch length, if I recall. Have since stashed one in my wife's car, another relative's car and gave one to a friend. The friend carried it for years...even good naturedly ribbed me about it once or twice...until one day he needed it to crack open some lug nuts.
The pipe I selected is the kind used to carry natural gas to the furnace, stove, clotes dryer, etc. in homes, I believe.
Wait until christmas sales and buy a 1/2" drive socket set. I'm sure Sears will have one for under 50 bucks. Then buy a cast iron pipe. If you have limited money to spend you're better off with a basic 1/2" set than throwing money at 3/8" stuff and trying to make it work.
+1 on that cast iron pipe. Simply went to a hardware store and had them cut maybe a 36-inch length, if I recall. Have since stashed one in my wife's car, another relative's car and gave one to a friend. The friend carried it for years...even good naturedly ribbed me about it once or twice...until one day he needed it to crack open some lug nuts.
The pipe I selected is the kind used to carry natural gas to the furnace, stove, clotes dryer, etc. in homes, I believe.
the easiest way to break one. try to take out the upper ball joint of a 1963 chrysler new yorker.
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
One thing I have done is to get a reduction bit for a 1/2" ratchet and use it on your breaker bar.
It will allow you to purchase a 1/2" drive breaker bar and place your 3/8" sockets on it.
If you buy the kit it also works the other way around. Your 3/8" ratchet can use your 1/2" drive sockets
I'm not sure why you would want to unless you were in some tight situations.
Oh yeah and +1 on the cheater bar.
+1 on the socket adapters. They have cheap sets at HF.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-high-visibility-socket-adapter-set-67925.html
I have both the 3/8ths in and 1/2 In breaker bars.
Depending on what you are doing, sometimes the breaker bar is too long to fit into the space (such as when removing caliper bolts if you don't have an impact gun. I like to use one of these types of Sliding T bars for that job.
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8306516/Breaker-Bars/Ratcheting-1/2-in.-Dr-Sliding-T-Bar
Regards, JC.
One thing I have done is to get a reduction bit for a 1/2" ratchet and use it on your breaker bar.
It will allow you to purchase a 1/2" drive breaker bar and place your 3/8" sockets on it.
If you buy the kit it also works the other way around. Your 3/8" ratchet can use your 1/2" drive sockets
I'm not sure why you would want to unless you were in some tight situations.
Oh yeah and +1 on the cheater bar.
+1 on the socket adapters. They have cheap sets at HF.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-high-visibility-socket-adapter-set-67925.html
I have both the 3/8ths in and 1/2 In breaker bars.
Depending on what you are doing, sometimes the breaker bar is too long to fit into the space (such as when removing caliper bolts if you don't have an impact gun. I like to use one of these types of Sliding T bars for that job.
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8306516/Breaker-Bars/Ratcheting-1/2-in.-Dr-Sliding-T-Bar
Regards, JC.
IMHO those two breakers are different tools for different purposes.
A 17" I'd be using for leverage loosening tight bolts.
A 10" I'd be using as a handle for crows feet wrenches, O2 sensor wrenches etc...
Also, might want to look at a 15" breaker. I find a 17" one is sometimes too long to fit in a wheel well.
Also, also. If country is of concern, my local sears breaker bars are currently made in china.
A 17" I'd be using for leverage loosening tight bolts.
A 10" I'd be using as a handle for crows feet wrenches, O2 sensor wrenches etc...
Also, might want to look at a 15" breaker. I find a 17" one is sometimes too long to fit in a wheel well.
Also, also. If country is of concern, my local sears breaker bars are currently made in china.
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hi zvm77us, I just bought 3/8 17in breaker bar from Harbor Freight 2 days ago, It is $7.99 no coupon neeed.
I haven't use it yet, which I will on Sunday to remove the differential drain/fill plug.
I decided to buy from Harbor Freight because it is way cheaper, and came with life time guarantee.
the longer, the better. So buy the 17 in breaker bar.
I haven't use it yet, which I will on Sunday to remove the differential drain/fill plug.
I decided to buy from Harbor Freight because it is way cheaper, and came with life time guarantee.
the longer, the better. So buy the 17 in breaker bar.
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