Break in oil

Joined
Sep 30, 2013
Messages
16,243
Location
Indiana
Not sure if this is the correct section because my question applies to both diesel and gas engines and PCMO and HDEO.

Is there any evidence at saying it matters if one uses conventional or synthetic during break in?

I know engine builders prefer one or the other, but they could be the same people saying transmission fluid doesn’t need changed. Also, it’s probably hard to find a plain conventional these days as most are likely blend or full syn.
 
To my knowledge (dated) John Deere still sends out their tractors with break in oil to be used for the first 100 hours or so. In the past they claimed that use of their Plus 50 II oil during break in might produce lesser results. I haven't purchased a new John Deere in over a decade, so maybe someone can follow up.

Evidence? Seems that we have numerous other threads that debated this topic. I don't know. Most new car engines, probably no. Shop rebuilds, race engines, and other specialty applications, maybe yes.
 
Last edited:
I got flamed into next week once for using the term "break in oil". (I'm not hating on your post)

My Honda GCV160 lawnmower engine actually "required" a break in oil to be used for like 10 hours -- I want to say it was Arnold's or something like that that I had never heard of...and who knows what it was. The engine specs 10w-30.
 
I got flamed into next week once for using the term "break in oil". (I'm not hating on your post)

My Honda GCV160 lawnmower engine actually "required" a break in oil to be used for like 10 hours -- I want to say it was Arnold's or something like that that I had never heard of...and who knows what it was. The engine specs 10w-30.
Are you serious? I own 3 Honda GX 160 engines , a GX 270 engine and a GX 690 engine plus a GCV engine and have I read the manuals and none of the manuals required a break in oil.
 
To my knowledge (dated) John Deere still sends out their tractors with break in oil to be used for the first 100 hours or so. In the past they claimed that use of their Plus 50 II oil during break in might produce lesser results. I haven't purchased a new John Deere in over a decade, so maybe someone can follow up.

Evidence? Seems that we have numerous other threads that debated this topic. I don't know. Most new car engines, probably no. Shop rebuilds, race engines, and other specialty applications, maybe yes.
It is not a "break in" oil it is just plain everyday oil.
 
Why is there a need for break in oil? Marketing at its finest .
It depends on the application.
Honda's factory fill used to be a high moly break in oil. Not that I'm searching old posts, but I remember documented confirmation. Many high performance engine builders will likely recommend conventional for break in.

Personally, I'm old enough where I should be in the "SAE30 with ZDDP" only camp, but I've rebuilt engines small and large and have broken half of them in with syn. Never an issue. For example, I rebuilt my 400EX years ago with a bore kit and broke it in with M1 15W50. She runs p!ssah.
 
Are you serious? I own 3 Honda GX 160 engines , a GX 270 engine and a GX 690 engine plus a GCV engine and have I read the manuals and none of the manuals required a break in oil.
Yeah, it came with it in the box. About 9 years ago. I kept the 13oz. bottle it came in to measure the fill for my end of season oil changes.
 
It is not a "break in" oil it is just plain everyday oil.
Tell that to the John Deere marketing team! LOL. Doesn't matter to me what they call it.

 
Not sure if this is the correct section because my question applies to both diesel and gas engines and PCMO and HDEO.

Is there any evidence at saying it matters if one uses conventional or synthetic during break in?

I know engine builders prefer one or the other, but they could be the same people saying transmission fluid doesn’t need changed. Also, it’s probably hard to find a plain conventional these days as most are likely blend or full syn.
A lot depends on how the engine was built and what parts are in it. Factory built engines may or may not require break in oil follow the instructions if it has use a break in oil then use it. Modern car engines probably not but OPE engines are more likely to be honed using old school finishes and will probably will benefit from using one.
Small shop built engines regardless of the quality of the machine work and parts will probably benefit greatly from using one, it depends on the bore finish and camshaft(s). There is no single correct answer.
Good article..

 
Why is there a need for break in oil? Marketing at its finest .
I didn’t mean it in a marketing sense. Just specifically the oil that is in the sump during the engines break in period. We could also say factory fill.
 
To my knowledge (dated) John Deere still sends out their tractors with break in oil to be used for the first 100 hours or so. In the past they claimed that use of their Plus 50 II oil during break in might produce lesser results. I haven't purchased a new John Deere in over a decade, so maybe someone can follow up.

Evidence? Seems that we have numerous other threads that debated this topic. I don't know. Most new car engines, probably no. Shop rebuilds, race engines, and other specialty applications, maybe yes.
Makes sense with JD. With my Kubota, they wanted the factory fill dumped at 50 hrs. OCI’s are 400 hrs.
 
I got flamed into next week once for using the term "break in oil". (I'm not hating on your post)

My Honda GCV160 lawnmower engine actually "required" a break in oil to be used for like 10 hours -- I want to say it was Arnold's or something like that that I had never heard of...and who knows what it was. The engine specs 10w-30.
People here can flame me all the want. I’ve told people before to move along if they don’t like what i post.
 
Flat tappet high lift aftermarket cam-you better be running some high ZDDP oil, preferably conventional or blend (usually PCMO/HDEO 10W30 & above can still be conventional), and a good dose of moly helps too. Modern roller follower design-not sure it matters a lot.
 
I didn’t mean it in a marketing sense. Just specifically the oil that is in the sump during the engines break in period. We could also say factory fill.
It's a great idea to drop it early, especially in a small OPE or similar engine with no filter & splash lube. The Predator 13 HP replacement engine on my log splitter sure had nice, sparkly oil after the first (1 hour) change!
 
I got flamed into next week once for using the term "break in oil". (I'm not hating on your post)

My Honda GCV160 lawnmower engine actually "required" a break in oil to be used for like 10 hours -- I want to say it was Arnold's or something like that that I had never heard of...and who knows what it was. The engine specs 10w-30.
I would imagine it was just a conventional 10W30 or straight 30 oil with some extra moly mixed in. It's not a requirement, but most OPE takes something on the order of a quart or less-pretty cheap insurance if you ask me! I can't believe the newer Briggs engines have LIFETIME crankcase fill-they aren't betting on tightwads like me running one 20 years or until the deck rusts off...
 
Tell that to the John Deere marketing team! LOL. Doesn't matter to me what they call it.



I wonder what is so different about that particular oil? Reading the description of why it should be used sounds like a description that can be easily applied to any motor oil.
 
Back
Top