Brake squeals a lot after being replaced

[M1Accord]

Originally Posted By: L_Sludger
Originally Posted By: M1Accord
Originally Posted By: Steve S
The pads are loose and rubbing on the discs.


I hope that is not the case because the mechanic pays very close attention to detail to everything.
your mechanic is what is referred to as a "butcher"


Butcher? Where do you get that idea from? Surely not from the information you quoted. That leaves me to believe you are either bore so you troll or you are genuinely stupid. Additionally, I would love to see you say that to his face. He may turn that jaw into new caliper.

 

[L_Sludger]

Originally Posted By: M1Accord
Originally Posted By: L_Sludger
Originally Posted By: M1Accord
Originally Posted By: Steve S
The pads are loose and rubbing on the discs.


I hope that is not the case because the mechanic pays very close attention to detail to everything.
your mechanic is what is referred to as a "butcher"


Butcher? Where do you get that idea from? Surely not from the information you quoted. That leaves me to believe you are either bore so you troll or you are genuinely stupid. Additionally, I would love to see you say that to his face. He may turn that jaw into new caliper.

Spoken like a true gentleman. I tip my hat to you. I said that he was a butcher because he did a pad slap using Wearever pads and old hardware. That's backyard quality work, not "master mechanic" work. In any case, I do admire your post. It deserves a monument - maybe a reflecting pool would be appropriate.

 

[M1Accord]

I still don't get where you get the idea that he's using old hardware? The pads, which I think were from Weaver, came with whatever parts needed for the job.

This is the same mechanic that changed my alternator, starter motor, axles, transmission output shaft seals, and rotors on this same car. On my other car, he change my TB, WP, and all necessary parts related to such maintenance procedure. He also do pads and rotors on the other car too. Do you think someone that can't can't replace pads properly on one car magically know how to do so on another car as well as doing TB, WP, and a host of other things without consulting a manual or having to second guess where and what things are. This man owned two shops until recently where his landlords got foreclosed on. He now have a shop in his oversize garage as well as a Mobile Repair business with over $100k worth of tools in Mac Tool truck. This guy has been working on car since he was 12 and went to schools for his ASE certification. He has been in the business for a long time and does good work. You go find me a guy that can work on numerous area across a wide range of platform without having to look things up and we'll talk. Until then, you don't go around calling someone a butcher when they take pride in their work and does the job right.

 

[M1Accord]

Originally Posted By: rshaw125
I had new pads put on a car at a reputable (expensive) brake place. I took them back 3 times for noise. They put anti-squeal on them, turned the rotors.etc etc They gave up.
I finally changed the pads my self. I installed Duralast Golds. Never made a peep after that.
It was the pads.


I hope this is the case of bad lemon pads and will be corrected with new pads this Friday.

 

[mechtech2]

For street use, your brakes will bed in perfectly with no special techniques.
Maybe sooner, maybe a bit later, depending.

Yes, they do need to seat in.
But pad material transference to the rotor for racing is different than street use.
It actually works differently for light use/street use. Any pad material is wiped off and a different type of friction system is in effect.

 

[rshaw125]

Originally Posted By: M1Accord
Originally Posted By: rshaw125
I had new pads put on a car at a reputable (expensive) brake place. I took them back 3 times for noise. They put anti-squeal on them, turned the rotors.etc etc They gave up.
I finally changed the pads my self. I installed Duralast Golds. Never made a peep after that.
It was the pads.


I hope this is the case of bad lemon pads and will be corrected with new pads this Friday.


You'll have to change pad manufacturers. The shop had Bendix on there. I bought Duralast Gold because of the warranty.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: M1Accord
The rotors were cleaned and the pads were scrubbed together for 30 secs before installation. I didn't hear squealing when I test drove it at his house because we did a lot of other things. I live about 80 miles away and I didn't hear squealing on the way home. The next day, I heard squealing while going at low speed half way to work.

Today my wife say she could hear it squeal before I turned into our street corner, 150-200 yards from the house, so it is not the low speed but rather at all speed but I can only detect the low speed squealing as the driver.

I am taking it back to have new pads installed because he warranty his work and the pads are backed by AAP, which he has shop discount with. My only concern is whether I should change the calipers as well. He had to rebuild one piston on the passenger side that was severely stuck. I took him awhile to remove it, clean, and applied anti-seize compound to make it move freely. I don't want to replace caliper unless I have to because I like to get some nice caliper, not from AAP, when that happens. The labor going into caliper is something I rather spend on replacing my rear drum brake, which is probably original from the factory.

Well, that's your problem. You need to replace or resurface the rotors as the condition of the rotor is causing NVH issues.

If calipers are not working, then both sides should be replaced with REMAN units and new caliper hardware should be installed, especially since it is 92. Hardware gets old and wears out and will contribute to noise issues as well.

Any half-decent mechanic will know that calipers should be serviced/replaced in pairs, and brake lubricant exists and anti-seize should not be used for lubricating brakes. I don't care if your buddy has 100k of tools or 20 years of experience, some of this stuff does not require experience to know.

 

[M1Accord]

The rotors were replaced at the same time as the pads (roughly 3 weeks or a month ago.) I am easy on brakes and use the long life pads so by the time I need pads, which is usually more than 100k miles, I tend to need rotors as well. It is easier to get them done at the same time than to do the pads and then the rotors 20-30k miles later.

 

[M1Accord]

The rotors were replaced at the same time as the pads (roughly 3 weeks or a month ago.) I am easy on brakes and use the long life pads so by the time I need pads, which is usually more than 100k miles, I tend to need rotors as well. It is easier to get them done at the same time than to do the pads and then the rotors 20-30k miles later.

Maybe I didn't explain the situation clearly due to the late night response. The anti-seize was used in the piston to prevent locking up as one piston was locked up when he removed the passenger side caliper.

I am hoping that the calipers are still good because I don't want to replace it with AAP units. Since it takes time to order stuffs online, I rather invest a little more money and get good calipers from better manufactures. I think of AAP parts to be lower standards in areas such as alternator, starter, etc and their re-manufacture stuffs are sketchy even though they come with life-time warranty. Due to time constraint, I rather wait and do the caliper when I do the rear drum brakes and other things a year from now.

The confusion is that if the caliper need replacement then it is a hassle to my friend to do that after he puts back the brakes and wheels. For me, it is a hassle if the squeal comes back after I get home. I live over 80 miles from him so it is a hassle for both.

The point is that I don't want to get into a habit of replacing things that don't need replacement. When the TB and WP were replaced on the Honda (different vehicle) I wished I have just waited for another year or 2 because they look perfect. There was no a single crack in the TB and all other belts were in perfect working condition. The water pump is the same way. Therefore, I kept those parts and will have them in the car for long trip in case of freak incident where TB or WP or belts need replacement and the shop I pull into don't carry the particular type for my vehicle but the mechanic can do the work. Having travel a lot for leisure and work, I can say with confident that a lot of shops don't carry parts for [censored] cars in the south. Even AAP, AutoZone, and part stores need a day or 2 to order parts in. I like to not ruin my business trip or vacation because a belt goes and it's Saturday Night with all stores closed. A good or decent mechanic can easily can do replacement if it has the parts and he'll make the little premium over standard rate and I get to continue with my trip. I stood by while my buddy worked on my cars and I know it is not that hard of a work with the right tools and I am not a mechanic of any measure.

 

[mechtech2]

Anti Seize on a brake caliper piston??
Lose your present mechanic.

 

[SIXSPEED]

Copaslip is a Copper-based antiseize compound that can be applied to the back of the brake pads, which contacts the front of the piston to help prevent brake squeal. Ford applied a Copper-based compound to the back of my GT500 front brake pads ... so it is used in the industry for brake applications. I assume it is Copaslip or a similar compound suitable for brake applications.

http://www.molyslip.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/Copaslip-Automotive-Email.pdf

Here is an application note:

Molyslip Copaslip is recommended by both Toyota and Nissan. Use it on spark plug threads and cylinder head bolts, behind disc brake pads to prevent squeal, for slack adjusters and pivot points and throughout the exhaust system.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Anti Seize on a brake caliper piston??
Lose your present mechanic.

+1

If the caliper piston is sticking then the caliper needs to be replaced with a reman unit.

All the reman units are fairly similar in terms of quality. Some include hardware, some don't. Some are painted, some are not. I would not say that one brand is significantly better than another.

Any reman caliper is better than your mechanic's rebuild since the reman calipers are cleaned well at a factory and are completely rebuilt.

I still think you need to replace both calipers and have new hardware, and make sure you have a good rotor surface and good pads.

 

[M1Accord]

Everything works fine now. It is was the pads and AAP gave us new pads and rotors. We also got new caliper for 35 bucks a piece. No squeals, no noise, everything is perfect. I got it done yesterday.

My buddy is really good.