Brake Rotor Question

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So, I called the Federal Mogul techline and they told me that anytime the rotors fall below minimum thickness, they must be replaced, period.

Pep Boys basically told me the same thing, but at the same time, they told me that in situations like this they usually tell the customers to keep driving the car until they develop a rotor related problem.
 
Originally Posted By: jumpr


If that's what the rotor looked like, what kind of condition were the pads in? What caused the customer to bring the vehicle in? Were the brakes making some kind of horrible noise?
3 of the pads were still ok. The one that did this damage was down to metal obviously.

They were not bringing the car in for brake work. Owner said the noise "just started on the way" to my shop. The Caliper piston finally blew out of the Caliper......Somehow they still drove it in!
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic

Probably...before I die on Highway 17.
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I should probably replace my LCA and lower ball joints too.

But my dad says that it's an old car, so I should treat it like an old car and not worry about it. LOL.


17 is a very dangerous place to lose your brake, you've already seen what happen every time it rains with the multi-car collision going down hill.

From my experience with HPS, they wear down the rotor about 2mm each surface for its life, so factor that in when you replace your pads and see if it has enough meat to wear down another 2-4 mm for your pad life. If you feel lucky, you can probably run below the rotor limit but if there is a crash and you neglect your car's braking system, you are in for a lawsuit. If you don't care about lawsuit, HPS do dust a lot and they work a little better with thin rotor than cheap OEM pads due to higher temp compound.

Shop around for some good deals on rotors, even the low end Chinese ones will probably be better than a below limit worn rotor.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Pep Boys basically told me the same thing, but at the same time, they told me that in situations like this they usually tell the customers to keep driving the car until they develop a rotor related problem.


Another reason why I wouldn't even let it register what Pep Boys tells me. It would be forgotten before they ever finished talking.
 
i had my brakes done a while back. my Q is why do they make you buy pads that are harder than the rotors? this wares the rotor faster than the pads. back when i took auto shop, fred flintstone was in my class, i was told that the shoes was the ware item, not the drums. so why does the ware item out last the piece that is to last the longest?
 
Originally Posted By: morris
i had my brakes done a while back. my Q is why do they make you buy pads that are harder than the rotors? this wares the rotor faster than the pads. back when i took auto shop, fred flintstone was in my class, i was told that the shoes was the ware item, not the drums. so why does the ware item out last the piece that is to last the longest?


Brake power, low rotating mass, lower cost (for OEM, not you), more purchases in the future, etc.
 
Originally Posted By: willix
At 104,000 mi, 3rd set of pads, the rotors have never been turned, all 4 in perfect condition.


I know, in the good old days of mid 90s, they do the right thing and give you lots of rotor mass. My mom's corolla is on the 3rd pad and 180k miles, and the rotors are still original (turned twice).

Now? You can probably only turn a good rotor once, and forget about it.
 
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