Brake Question

[GMFan]

I just replaced my rotors and brake pads (ceramic). They are Raybestos. This was done to solve shuddering in the steering wheel and a loud clunking sound when applying the brake pedal.

The shudder/noise is gone since the replacement. When I took my rotors off I noticed an even groove on them all around the circumference of the rotor. Also, the brake pads had this groove in them as well.

Seems like the rotor grooved out and caused the brake pad to do the same. I also noticed what seemed to be like excessive brake material on the surface of the rotor. Probably contributed to my issues.

My question is, which braking procedure is best to prevent this in the future? I usually slowly brake to a stop but is it better to let off the brake for a few seconds while slowing down before applying them again or just keeping your foot on the pedal? Which reduces heat?

I assume the brake pad material on the rotor was caused by sitting at red lights with hot brake pads. The brake pads that were on the car at the time were ceramic which I thought didn't have this problem.

Any suggestions to make my brakes/rotors last the longest would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

[alanu]

raybestos professional grade or QS do not need breakin.

Dont worry and drive....seriously.

 

[GMFan]

Ok, well glad I got the professional series stuff. So far I just did a few 60mph to 10mph stops and made sure not to keep the brakes depressed when stopped.

I did some research and read some stuff from a guy who seems to know a lot about brakes.

He says a lot has to do with people's braking habits. You should gently brake for the initial 1 or 2 seconds, then give it approx 70% braking power and then as you are near the stop slowly release brake pressure.

The reason for this is to use the max brake for when the wheel is spinning fast, thus being air cooled. Applying more pressure as you near the stop cooks the brakes more, prevents cooling and leaves pad material on rotor. He also said to apply as little pressure on the brakes as possible at stop lights to decrease pad material transfer (not that I ever did this anyway).

 

[wantin150]

Different mfg's recommend different bed-in procedures so if your mfg doesn't recommend anything, then simply drive.

Another word on braking: it is recommended that you do NOT come to a complete stop with hot brakes (i.e. 100-0 and continue brake application at 0).

 

[The Critic]

It's normal (and recommended) that you deposit a thin, even layer of material onto the surface of the rotor. This actually improves braking torque and reduces noise.

Always follow the brake manufacturer's burnishing procedure. In the absence of one, following the one outlined by the OEM. GM advises 20 moderate stops from 30 mph with some cool down in-between.

It's okay to come to a complete stop during bed-in as long as you do not get the pads super hot. The reason why some procedures tell you to not come to a complete stop is because the procedure forces you to heat the pads to a very high temperature, while others do not.

 

[alanu]

Raybestos professional grade is a semi ceramic. You will find the pads to bed immediately compared to any semi metallic pad you've used in the past.

Drive ....slowly apply the brakes. Truly no thinking process required. I dont know how many hundreds of sets I've used with no noise issues.

 

[doitmyself]

You guys need to re-read his question. It is not about break in. It's about daily braking habits to achieve better brake life and performance.

Gm guy, I don't have an answer for you.

 

[PT1]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
It's normal (and recommended) that you deposit a thin, even layer of material onto the surface of the rotor. This actually improves braking torque and reduces noise.

Always follow the brake manufacturer's burnishing procedure. In the absence of one, following the one outlined by the OEM. GM advises 20 moderate stops from 30 mph with some cool down in-between.

It's okay to come to a complete stop during bed-in as long as you do not get the pads super hot. The reason why some procedures tell you to not come to a complete stop is because the procedure forces you to heat the pads to a very high temperature, while others do not.


+1 bed them in easy with 25-30 30mph to 5 mph gradual stops with 1 mile of driving in between each stop. This will extend pad life as the new pads will contact the rotor surface evenly and completely. How you drive after 500 miles of easy stop and go is almost irrelevant.

 

[wantin150]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
You guys need to re-read his question. It is not about break in. It's about daily braking habits to achieve better brake life and performance.

Gm guy, I don't have an answer for you.


Some believe that the way to get the most life out of a new set of pads and rotors is to properly bed then in in the first place. Then normal driving and braking.

 

[GMFan]

The pads are ceramic. It says so on the package....not semi-ceramic.

Rotors are Raybestos Professional.

I did brake them in and now I generally try to be easy on the brakes and let the wheels roll without brakes applied to cool them off right before light. Luckily, since my car is stick I use engine braking when applicable, and I keep my foot off the brake on flat surfaces.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: GMFan
The pads are ceramic. It says so on the package....not semi-ceramic.

Rotors are Raybestos Professional.

I did brake them in and now I generally try to be easy on the brakes and let the wheels roll without brakes applied to cool them off right before light. Luckily, since my car is stick I use engine braking when applicable, and I keep my foot off the brake on flat surfaces.

Ceramic content varies from part # to part #, from brand to brand. The professional grade ceramics either contain a lesser quality ceramic or less ceramic material than the Advanced Technology line.

Did your rotors come with the black coating on the hat?

Good pads and rotors for the S-Series are fairly inexpensive--about $120 for each axle. I would just drive normally and not worry too much about it.

 

[alanu]

Originally Posted By: GMFan
The pads are ceramic. It says so on the package....not semi-ceramic.

Rotors are Raybestos Professional.

I did brake them in and now I generally try to be easy on the brakes and let the wheels roll without brakes applied to cool them off right before light. Luckily, since my car is stick I use engine braking when applicable, and I keep my foot off the brake on flat surfaces.


They are semi-ceramic according to my RAYBESTOS rep. Napa uses raybestos/united in their "box of brake pads" and it is also "referenced" as semi-ceramic according to price point. If you want a real ceramic pad you should have bought QS.

I've seen some raybestos premium rotors with the hat painted black. They were made in china. The finish of the rotor was linear just like the Aimco premium china deals.

Braking methods can improve longevity. Some ride the brake pedal and wonder why they go through brakes quickly.

Engine braking adds additional wear to the clutch when you gear down rather than slowly applying the brakes. This can also increase the load on the piston rings as you decel with the engine. Gearing down can also wear the syncros as your sliding the slider to the next consecutive gear down..... thinking too much???

Brakes are cheap! Just drive safely and brake in a sensible manner.

 

[The_Jeff]

It sounds like you already have good habits.

I would stay with the status quo and just drive. It's not like brakes are expensive or hard to change.