Brake pad errosion?

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Nov 9, 2008
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2021 Camry Hybrid, garage did safety inspection this week, told me that I had a thin brake pad. Thin indeed--surprised they passed me. I did a pad slap with Carquests 18months/33kmiles ago as it did the same thing, rust gumming up the works and the electric parking brake cramming it together (not from hard braking).
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The other side of the char still has 3/4 of the pad lining left. Pins are sticky but they always are. I'm 99% sure that I lubed these brakes last spring but I should check the log and make sure--if I missed that, then it's all on me.

What I don't get is why are chunks missing? The good pad had a piece missing.
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The bad pad is truly bad--maybe it got cooked? Looks rough and lots of the corners are gone.
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The good pad side of the rotor has some ridges on the rotor, but I think that is from when I pad slapped this. I should try to knock that down. That's an OEM rotor with 93k on it, not quite 4 years old.
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Should I go back to OEM pads? I'm not sure if I want to run to Advanced for another set of pads, or just put this back together and order new pads, and install next weekend. There's still at least 232 miles left on that bad bad I bet, that's enough for the week.
 
2021 Camry Hybrid, garage did safety inspection this week, told me that I had a thin brake pad. Thin indeed--surprised they passed me. I did a pad slap with Carquests 18months/33kmiles ago as it did the same thing, rust gumming up the works and the electric parking brake cramming it together (not from hard braking).
View attachment 264836

The other side of the char still has 3/4 of the pad lining left. Pins are sticky but they always are. I'm 99% sure that I lubed these brakes last spring but I should check the log and make sure--if I missed that, then it's all on me.

What I don't get is why are chunks missing? The good pad had a piece missing.
View attachment 264837

The bad pad is truly bad--maybe it got cooked? Looks rough and lots of the corners are gone.
View attachment 264839

View attachment 264840

View attachment 264841

The good pad side of the rotor has some ridges on the rotor, but I think that is from when I pad slapped this. I should try to knock that down. That's an OEM rotor with 93k on it, not quite 4 years old.
View attachment 264842

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Should I go back to OEM pads? I'm not sure if I want to run to Advanced for another set of pads, or just put this back together and order new pads, and install next weekend. There's still at least 232 miles left on that bad bad I bet, that's enough for the week.

that's from overheating, very common on stuck pads. it also *causes* extra rust on the backing plate. That's what the Hyundai pads and discs looked like if the brakes didn't get serviced
 
Nrs brake pads makes zinc coated rust resistant brake pads.
Originally they were made for tesla because of regeneration braking the pads would be barley used and started to rust before wearing out.
 
Living in Ohio is the reason I do brake jobs well before the pads actually need it. Especially with the horrid winter we’ve had, more so the month of February.
 
That Rotor is SHOT !! It will tear up new pads.
Its not that bad. I usually wait until it looks like a record. Besides. What is a replacement going to be like in 4 years? no different.
 
Rust grooves can negatively impact braking performance by reducing the contact area between the brake pads and the rotor, leading to longer stopping distances and decreased braking power. Additionally, grooves can cause uneven wear on the brake pads and the rotor, increasing maintenance costs as they need to be replaced more frequently.
 
It looks like that caliper has issues as it seems one pad is worn out while the other has material. I'd investigate that and replace both rotors on the axle. Go back to factory pads and rotors.
 
They were dragging and got overheated. What brake lube are you using? The pins should not be sticking after only one year.
Pins were not sticking—it was rust jacking under the pad ears, under the stainless steel shim whatevers. I usually try to smear Honda M77under there, are cleaning, but I think I recall skimping last time.

I just need to inspect more often. Every six months maybe. Really wish I had a lift!
 
Pins were not sticking—it was rust jacking under the pad ears, under the stainless steel shim whatevers. I usually try to smear Honda M77under there, are cleaning, but I think I recall skimping last time.

I just need to inspect more often. Every six months maybe. Really wish I had a lift!
Look at the maxjax lift. Best ROI purchase I ever made.
 
Your brake hose will eventually go out or is already in the process of going out.

All parts in the brake system do the job of heatsinking away the heat. Rust can build up in the bracket where the pad sits, making things move less smoothly. Loss of rotor material can eventually play a role as well. Your car is relatively young though, so the calipers and rotors are not yet part of the problem. The rust has rapidly infiltrated the caliper bracket, and that can literally change the angle the pad wants "to be at" when installing the pad(personal experience).

That's why I silicone greased brand new calipers in the bracket area for a Toyota Matrix. One reason is to see if basic plumbing protection also applies to car. Two, to see if a perfect rust proofer already exists under the market's noses.
 
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