Brake line rot

[mjoekingz28]

Any idea what metals these have been made from since the century? Morely, Chevrolets.


I ask, and am wondering do brake lines rot from the inside from old brake fluid

OR

From the outside from salt, dirt, water, etc

 

[901Memphis]

Outside from salt, which is why it's worse in states with snow.

 

[NHGUY]

Brake fluid attracts and absorbs water,so there is rust inside as well as outside.

 

[spk2000]

Both, I have seen clean ones on outside rust through from inside and have seen rusted through from outside as well. I you are keeping a long time use stainless and worries are gone.

 

[veryHeavy]

Originally Posted By: spk2000
If you are keeping a long time use stainless and worries are gone.

Why don't OEMs use stainless, and eliminate the problem?

 

[Astro14]

Originally Posted By: veryHeavy
Originally Posted By: spk2000
If you are keeping a long time use stainless and worries are gone.

Why don't OEMs use stainless, and eliminate the problem?



$$$

 

[eljefino]

Stainless doesn't flare. It's too brittle to work.

If they cared about rust, they'd use ni-copp.

 

[larryinnewyork]

When I bought my Ranger in 2002,
I coated the brake lines with Never-Seize (aluminum kind).
There made of some type of 'magnetic' steel.

Occasionally, I will mix Never-Seize and Fluid Film and refresh.
Today, they still look brand new.
Never had to change them yet, and I'm from New York State.

I also flush the brake fluid every 2 years.

 

[Donald]

Replace with nickel/copper and be done.

A full rust prevention treatment like Krown, Fluid Film, CarWell should also help prevent brake line rust-out also.

 

[spasm3]

I may need to replace some brake lines on my truck. How hard is it to bend fit ni-copp? Do you buy them premade or do you bend and flare them yourself? Where do you buy ni-copp? How difficult is it to double flare ends?

 

[901Memphis]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
I may need to replace some brake lines on my truck. How hard is it to bend fit ni-copp? Do you buy them premade or do you bend and flare them yourself? Where do you buy ni-copp? How difficult is it to double flare ends?


You usually buy them in 25 foot rolls and they are super easy to work with. You can bend them around your finger by hand but they are basically corrosion proof.

You can buy the rolls online on ebay or Amazon. I saw a roll on advance autos website too

 

[Kestas]

To answer the OPs question, brake lines are made of Bundy tubing, which is a unique process that results in material that is reliably resistant to bursting. As far as corrosion resistance, the material is plain carbon steel that is brazed to itself, and is no more corrosion resistant than any other steel part on a car.

Corrosion resistance comes from the coating. Old brake lines were coated with terne plate -- a lead rich coating, which has excellent corrosion resistance. Since there has been a large push to eliminate lead from vehicle production, brake lines are now coated with epoxy.

Brake line corrosion is chiefly from the outside in. I don't remember reading or hearing anything of internal corrosion being a problem with brake lines.

As mentioned above, the reason for not using stainless steel or nickel-copper is chiefly economics. Burst strength may be a secondary factor. Plus, most brake lines last the life of the car. The times they don't last and need to be replaced is for those that live in the rust belt and hang on to their cars for a long time.

 

[69GTX]

After 12 winters on my last car, the brake lines started rotting through (230K miles). The car was basically a mess by then. With my newer version of the same car the OEM was smart enough to place a plastic sheath around all the brake lines. Problem gone. The old version had some small horizontal support trays under the bare lines that ensured salt/slush/sand would collect right on top of them.

 

[eljefino]

There are a lot of fairly junk cars (GM, looking at you) where the brake *and fuel* lines are a steel spider that all bolts in in one go. So you'll find approx five steel lines following the inner rocker panel.

If they cared about your ownership experience in the second decade, they'd give you nylon fuel lines and at least design the clamps and stuff to shed water instead of trapping it.

 

[rubberchicken]

Regarding the NICOP brake lines: I would advise you that if you use this material, that you keep all the purchase receipts in a file. If the vehicle is sold, these lines "might" trip up an inspector that is unfamilier with that material. It is in fact certified for use in the USA, unlike plain copper that a vehicle inspector will fail. I believe that this line was standard for Saab and-or Volvo or some other Euro brand. Using nicop is easier than standard brake line and good for repairs.

I have a 1997 Suburban with bad brake line rust problems, and I used nicop for the repairs: I ran into a mechanic working on it for another reason who questioned it, but after careful explanation he was satisfied. A full replacement with stainless steel lines was going to run close to $2000.

 

[Silverado12]

When bending your new lines to fit, use a wire coat hanger, welding rod, etc. and make a template. Makes the job easy breezy.

 

[spk2000]

I have used a stainless brake lines and they generally cost 3-4 times more. They are more difficult to bend but I tend not to follow the exact pattern of old line anyways. If you want it to look like factory then stainless probably is not the best. I do recall they are now using a polymer coating inside lines and that should prevent inside line corrosion.

 

[cronk]

This is the stuff I use.
http://agscompany.com/product-category/brake-fuel-transmission-lines/poly-armour/
Available at most parts stores.
It is a copper steel blend and plastic coated.
Very easy to bend and much more corrosion resistant than standard steel or galvanized brake line.

 

[nobb]

Originally Posted By: cronk
This is the stuff I use.
http://agscompany.com/product-category/brake-fuel-transmission-lines/poly-armour/
Available at most parts stores.
It is a copper steel blend and plastic coated.
Very easy to bend and much more corrosion resistant than standard steel or galvanized brake line.


This is the stuff I replaced all my hard lines with last year as it was readily available at the parts store. I'm curious how it will hold up long term. The poly coating is nice, but can still be scratched off during the bending/install process if you're not careful (eg. while fishing the lines through some tight spots).

 

[Claud]

I don't see how a brake line can rust from the inside out. Sixth grade science lessons taught me the iron need air and water to make it it rust. Enough air in a line to allow this would mean effectively no brakes in any part of the system incorporating such a line.
Replacing brake lines with copper/nickel tubing has been a mainstay of uk vehicle repairs for decades. It doesn't rust, is easily worked, and has to conform to a minimum burst pressure rating. I have seen it used to jury rig a diesels engine with a broken injector line on occasions.
I'm sure the tubing sold as replacement brake line in North America must meet a similar requirement.

Claud.