Brake job coming up, what do I need?

[Shel_B]

The brakes on the Camry are getting close to needing replacement, although I do have some time based on the last inspection about 6-mos back. I'm starting to look into my options, but I don't know what I'll need besides rotors and pads. The last time I did any brakes was around 1988-89 and they were on two much newer cars than the Camry. The only other brakes I've done were in 1972 when I slapped a set of front pads on my Mazda.

Should I consider new calipers and pistons? AFAIK, they're fine now, but do they get replaced as preventative maintenance, and doing it "while you're in there?" Is there some sort of maintenance to be done on the calipers and pistons? I'd just as soon not spend the $$, but I've no concern about doing so if it's something to be done.

What else should be looked at or replaced? What about the parking brake? Does it get adjusted or need maintenance? And brake fluid? Dot 3 or Dot 4? Is all brake fluid pretty much the same? Should the brake hoses be replaced?

The bottom line is this: I'm OK doing anything that has to or should be done ... I don't want to skimp or overlook anything ... but I'll be happier if more $$ can stay in my wallet.

 

[GMBoy]

Quality pads (they will have new hardware) and rotors. Clean everything with brake cleaner and Lube correctly and then fresh brake fluid. That should be all you need.

 

[Donald]

I know costs add up. My tube is made by ATE and blue.

But I believe that something like this is for brake pins and clips etc

https://a.co/d/9aIjNn3

Permatex has a purple, brown/red and green label brake lubricant.

I use the purple label for the ears. But syl-glyde on the caliper pin and boot.

 

[artbuc]

I have used silicone grease on Toyota/Lexus caliper slide pins for decades with zero problems. I usually clean and lube every 2-3 years, at least. Toyota lithium soap grease sucks.

Fascinating. I wonder if Toyota uses silicone rubber (eg FKM) for those bushings? That's the only rubber that could swell from silicone grease as far as I know, but I could be wrong.

Just goes to show that every application can be unique and the OEMs know more than us mere mortals. Sometimes it's safer to simply clean and reinstall with no grease. That's what the BMW FSM calls for at least.

 

[svtrit]

The brakes on the Camry are getting close to needing replacement, although I do have some time based on the last inspection about 6-mos back. I'm starting to look into my options, but I don't know what I'll need besides rotors and pads. The last time I did any brakes was around 1988-89 and they were on two much newer cars than the Camry. The only other brakes I've done were in 1972 when I slapped a set of front pads on my Mazda.

Should I consider new calipers and pistons? AFAIK, they're fine now, but do they get replaced as preventative maintenance, and doing it "while you're in there?" Is there some sort of maintenance to be done on the calipers and pistons? I'd just as soon not spend the $$, but I've no concern about doing so if it's something to be done.

What else should be looked at or replaced? What about the parking brake? Does it get adjusted or need maintenance? And brake fluid? Dot 3 or Dot 4? Is all brake fluid pretty much the same? Should the brake hoses be replaced?

The bottom line is this: I'm OK doing anything that has to or should be done ... I don't want to skimp or overlook anything ... but I'll be happier if more $$ can stay in my wallet.

I just did my 09 Camry with 341,000 miles. I only needed Bosch pads, which came with the hardware needed. I also bought grease for the caliper pins, which I pulled out, cleaned, and then reinstalled.

It was a very simple job. I use a large C-clamp and an old pad to push the caliper piston back in.

 

[Donald]

Second car to drive to NAPA to get a part you did not think you needed but when everything is apart you realize you do. Like a caliper pin that's rusty & pitted. Once the plating is rusty or pitted you need a new pin.

 

[We're Metals]

How did the brake job go? @Shel_B

 

[Shel_B]

How did the brake job go? @Shel_B

Haven't needed to do it yet. We took a closer look at the situation and decided to wait a bit. I inspect under the car about 2X a year, and the next look will be in a few months, maybe November to mid-December. Thanks for asking.

 

[VersatileGuy]

Things that should be done would include

Measuring for runout and discard thickness requires at least a cheap micrometer and dial indicator assembly.

Smoothing out the wheel hub of any corrosion.

Utilizing the process of removing the pads to check for brake hose integrity.

Checking for tapered wear, which would indicate the need to clean out the holes in the mounting bracket, probably some new pins, and new grease. Other wear patterns should be checked for

Crimping the hose should be avoided.

That the caliper mounting bracket needs the corrosion removed, especially where the pads will be inserted. Filing, naval jelly, whatever it takes to get the deposits off. This also makes it easier to get the pads in there.

There is a false equivalence of "formulations" of brake fluid. They all meet the DOT3 or DOT 4 standard. That doesn't mean they're all chemically equivalent. For Toyota, it's clear on the bottle they've got three things in their sauce at the very least, which are "triethylene glycol monobutyl ether, Di-n-butylamine, and diethylene glycol". Having dealt with the factory brake fluid in it, it takes away for Toyota sauce to discolor. When I swapped the fluid for Supertech. It wasn't long before the next fluid check it came out a vibrant green after a short period. After which, I then jumped to Castrol's DOT4 formulation, which purported to be moisture resistant; it might have been okay but I don't know because I basically lost the fluid having to replace a screwed up brake hose, which probably failed due to a mix of heat from the sticking of pads, caliper, and caliper pins, and crimping the hose in the past.
Deviating from Toyota's fluid will likely shorten the lifespan of the parts within the system.

As a Toyota-only thing, their rotors are usually quite well-built cast iron FWIW.

Also, there is an assumption that rotor makers actually care about insuring things are to spec when they know most of their customers will not check them for runout, balance, roundness, etc with a dial indicator. The other assumption is all cast iron is of the same quality, when it isn't.
---------------
As for the pads, I'd consider using OEM, Akebono, EBC, or Autozone's Gold or Elite. OEM is basically what one expects out of the factory. Akebono is the maker of the OEM pads. EBC is for more stopping power, but not necessarily longevity. Autozone's main draw is warranty for anything, even ordinary wear, although the Elite's performance in stopping...is imo worse than OEM or EBC. I have used only EBC's red stuff on a Matrix, but the stopping power was quite noticeable.

 

[Donald]

Jmoymmv I was taught not to use anti seize but the proper brake lube when dealing with floating calipers, pins, and pads.

Ditto with spark plugs which is a different debate, it should not be used there either as the torque values are altered.

I do use plenty of anti seize on the hub/rotor hat area.

Under the SS clips is a good place for anti seize.

 

[KrisZ]

OP lives in California, he doesn’t need any extra rust protections or antiseize in various places. Just whatever the service manual calls for.