Brake issue again for 2001 Jeep GC

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Donald

Donald

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I have posted before about brake issues. I have installed the Akebono caliper upgrade kit from Chrysler. The basic issue is I have the brakes done, 10K miles latter I get pulsation. Currently I have on Centric rotors with e-coating. The indy shop turned the rotors and things were fine but the pulsation come back. Shortly I will have had both hubs replaced with Timken hubs. So I doubt lateral runout.

Maybe I need drilled or slotted rotors.

The odd thing is I need to do nothing special to the brakes in my 3/4 ton pickup and they are always super.
 
Make sure you are taking everything apart to clean and lube your brakes. If your pads stick in the slides and get your rotors hot, the rotors will warp and your pad surface will glaze and harden. With the winters we have here in Upstate NY, the brakes should be serviced at least once a year.
Comparing brakes on a light duty passenger vehicle and a heavy duty truck is apples to oranges.
 
I have had brake problems on a few different vehicles, and it seems to me not to have much to do with what application they were (one was a Chevy 3500 dually that had problems regardless of whether it was fully loaded or not).
Do you recall any braking situations where you had to hit the brakes hard and then come to a complete stop and stay there for a period of time?
Does the vehicle sit for extended periods of time and then get used heavily?
A little background would go a long way.
 
Originally Posted By: MichiganMadMan
I have had brake problems on a few different vehicles, and it seems to me not to have much to do with what application they were (one was a Chevy 3500 dually that had problems regardless of whether it was fully loaded or not).
Do you recall any braking situations where you had to hit the brakes hard and then come to a complete stop and stay there for a period of time?
Does the vehicle sit for extended periods of time and then get used heavily?
A little background would go a long way.


I am a non-aggressive driver, both braking and accelerating. The Jeep gets used more in the winter than summer but its driven at least once or twice a week even in the summer. I never tow or carry loads. Never go off-roading.

I know the indy shop has lubricated the rails where the ears on the brake pads ride.
 
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I have never had pulsating rotors turned and it not return. New rotors and use a torque wrench to make sure they are evenly loaded.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
I have never had pulsating rotors turned and it not return. New rotors and use a torque wrench to make sure they are evenly loaded.


smile.gif
Say that again!
 
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I can now say that I am no longer a fan of the Centric Premium Rotors w/E-Coating. We are noticing that they warp too soon on many applications. Mine as well as those in our circle who used to like'em very much at one time. But, no longer! And their warranty sucks(90 days)

We have turned to Raybestos Pro-Grade Rotors and - when we can get them at reasonable prices...BREMBO Rotors!
 
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Originally Posted By: Donald


The odd thing is I need to do nothing special to the brakes in my 3/4 ton pickup and they are always super.


Those rotors have more beef in them and probably resist heat better. My experience has been, that any rotor on a car works fine, even duralast, as long as you torque the lugs every time, especially before they ever see heat. And use a good pad. The Akebonos should be a good pad, never tried them before. Usually pulsating rotors are from pad deposits from the brake pads welding themselves the rotor at stops. Better pads prevent this. Since using quality pads on new rotors with a torque wrench , I don't have problems. Make sure the wheel bearings are in good shape too.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: Donald


The odd thing is I need to do nothing special to the brakes in my 3/4 ton pickup and they are always super.


Those rotors have more beef in them and probably resist heat better. My experience has been, that any rotor on a car works fine, even duralast, as long as you torque the lugs every time, especially before they ever see heat. And use a good pad. The Akebonos should be a good pad, never tried them before. Usually pulsating rotors are from pad deposits from the brake pads welding themselves the rotor at stops. Better pads prevent this. Since using quality pads on new rotors with a torque wrench , I don't have problems. Make sure the wheel bearings are in good shape too.


I am sure the indy shop is properly torquing the lug nuts.

Ordering these on Amazon: 76793PER.
 
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Originally Posted By: Donald

I know the indy shop has lubricated the rails where the ears on the brake pads ride.


I lubed the ears on mine this fall. I have not checked the Toyotas yet, but the lube was gone on the vw. Completely washed away within six months. Still slid properly, but... Once/year is the longest I would go. Twice would be better.
 
This is a known issue with that year Grand Cherokee*. Since the warping is often due to heat, a slotted or drilled rotor might do better for you.






*almost abbreviated as "GC". Boy what a hullabaloo that would cause at BITOG!
 
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Check your rear brakes- In a salt environment rear disc brakes can corrode and pad ears and carrier become one lump of rust. The fronts then do extra duty and can get hot even when driven easy.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
im in with they overtorqued the nuts. probly gunned them down then made sure they clicked with a tq wrench


A lot of places make sure they are tight enough with a torque wrench. But you have to loosen them and then retighten with the torque wrench to make sure they are even and not overly tight on some lugs. I do this in the tire shop parking lot, before i let the rotors see any heat.
 
Had the same issues with several vehicles china made rotors is the problem.I bought some from napa that where premium I believe and they lasted longer but still did it.The last set I bought from oreillys where just cheap ones but have a 2 yr warranty.Not much you can do but buy expensive aftermarket rotors.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Don't assume lateral run out is good on the hubs.


x2 An on the car lathe for the rotors like a Pro Cut does wonders for habitual pulsations.
 
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