Brake Fluid with low moisture absorption i.e. long service life

Status
Not open for further replies.

avi

Joined
Mar 2, 2009
Messages
17
Location
Camarillo, CA
Had to drive my wife's Chevy Suburban, was dismayed at the stopping or lack there off... I am used to my Civic Si :)

Front is down to 10% and I want to do all four corners rotors/pads and brake fluid (which was probably never replaced in 4-5 years)

Given that I am a software guy, and know very little about cars, I resort to internet searching...

For now I settled on Centric smooth $206 all four (cheapest from Home Depot of all places), and Akebono ($160 from Amazon) or Hawk LTS pads ($140 from Amazon)

But would love any comments/recommendations... esp on slotted vs slotted and drilled... (drilled supposedly have "best" cooling yet less mass for heat dissipation, and might crack).

Other rotors considered were R1 Concepts slotted (not drilled) rotors ($250 all four) and Wagner ($200 all four)

and I am looking for a good brake fluid with long service life.

Not racing/track, but we do take the SUV up and down mountains, and we load it fairly heavy with stuff and toys, two kids, and three dogs, so emergency stopping is extremely important to me.

i.e. boiling point is probably not an issue (downshift on downhills) but moisture absorption is, esp since we live in a very humid area by the ocean, fog comes in every night/morning.

I am aware of Castrol DOT 4 LMA (low moisture activity), which is highly recommended for daily driving, but cannot find it easily, or reasonably priced. $10 for 12oz!

so I am looking for alternatives, short list is these two DOT 5.1

Wagner SevereDuty (or is it Severe Duty) DOT 5.1

Motul 5.1

both about the same price on Amazon $18-$20 per quart (32oz) or two half liters (500ml) respectively

though currently the Wagner is at $25, I hate Amazon demand pricing, which sometimes change multiple times per day :-(

however I don't know about their service life and their tendency for moisture absorption

I rather not flush every year :)

Three years would be perfect...


thanks,

-avi
 
Stick with solid rotors. I've always had good experiences with the Centric stuff. Never had any problems.

Just accept the fact that you need to flush brake fluid on a regular basis. I'm sure there will be people posting shortly about how they've 'owned 200 cars over 60 years' and have never flushed their brake fluid and that their braking systems are 'just fine'

Brake fluid absorbs water, there's just no way around it. Three years would probably be ok, but with a big heavy vehicle with your family in it, two would be better.

As easy as it is to flush brake fluid given that you shouldn't have to deal with rust that shouldn't be a problem.
 
Last edited:
i would buy slotted rotors akebono pads and flush the brake system with dot 4 fluid. you should flush it every 2 -3 years or if the brakes overheat and boil the fluid
 
If you haven''t let the pads get to zero, then why change rotors? If there isn't any shaking... If you think high priced BF will give you 3yrs, go for it. I'd go for whatever the last set were if they gave good service. I favor soft, dusty cheap pads because they cause less rotor wear. Get a tube of Sil-Glyde to use for the piston and rubber stuff. I use special permatex black grease for the slides. I live in a marine climate, my 30 yr BMW needed a service every 2 yrs or a caliper would seize. . DOT3-4 is cheap and new once in a while is a great idea. I use the entire qt in one go The slides etc benefited with lube and the innards liked new BF.
 
Last edited:
Thank you so much for the quick responses.

Spent more time searching/shopping. definitely going with Centric smooth (High Carbon for fronts) and Akebono (ASP or Performance)

but what I still could not find answer for is how quickly the different brake fluids absorb moisture...

Found that Rock Auto has the Wagner 5.1 fairly cheap even with shipping. (I'll be getting the pads and the high carbon Centric rotors from them too, but rears from Home Depot)

I know that the DOT 5.1 wet boiling point is much higher than DOT 4, 356 vs 311 degrees

yet if the 5 absorbs moisture much faster than Castrol LMA, I'll keep searching for the Castrol...

or should I give up "perfection" (sorry, cannot help it, I am a recovering perfectionist, and I keep falling off the wagon... ) and just get the Wagner 5.1 from Rock Auto???

main reason for looking for a long change interval is that I am very forgetful, so I want a fluid that will provide good stops, even if I forget to change it on time, I cannot count on my wife to tell me, as she feels nothing wrong with current braking...

and why change rotors, just because (see perfectionist above...)

you are correct, not necessary, but wouldn't newer, thicker rotors will have more mass to dissipate heat, and at $40 each not much more expensive than machining the original ones.

thanks again

-avi
 
[align:center][/align]
Originally Posted by avi
Thank you so much for the quick responses.

Spent more time searching/shopping. definitely going with Centric smooth (High Carbon for fronts) and Akebono (ASP or Performance)

but what I still could not find answer for is how quickly the different brake fluids absorb moisture...

Found that Rock Auto has the Wagner 5.1 fairly cheap even with shipping. (I'll be getting the pads and the high carbon Centric rotors from them too, but rears from Home Depot)

I know that the DOT 5.1 wet boiling point is much higher than DOT 4, 356 vs 311 degrees

yet if the 5 absorbs moisture much faster than Castrol LMA, I'll keep searching for the Castrol...

or should I give up "perfection" (sorry, cannot help it, I am a recovering perfectionist, and I keep falling off the wagon... ) and just get the Wagner 5.1 from Rock Auto???

main reason for looking for a long change interval is that I am very forgetful, so I want a fluid that will provide good stops, even if I forget to change it on time, I cannot count on my wife to tell me, as she feels nothing wrong with current braking...

and why change rotors, just because (see perfectionist above...)

you are correct, not necessary, but wouldn't newer, thicker rotors will have more mass to dissipate heat, and at $40 each not much more expensive than machining the original ones.

thanks again

-avi

I think you are talking about minimum temperature.
DOT4 is go to on all performance cars.
I use in both cars ATE TYP200 which is DOT4. Boiling point is 536f, and wet boiling point is 388f.
As for which fluid. Castrol is good, but DOT4 go to on European cars for example would be: ATE TYP200, Pentosin DOT4 LV, Motul.
Now, you have Castrol SRF racing brake fluid available, but it is $68 to $79 a liter.
 
Last edited:
Slotted and/or drilled rotors opens a whole new world of problems. Stick with standard rotors for street use.
DOT 5.1 is a full synthetic fluid for special applications. Not a do-all-street-purpose fluid.
I've had excellent results with Wagner ThermoQuiet brakes but, then, I know how to drive and I'm not hard on brakes.
 
Castrol is very good fluid, probably the best all around of the commonly available fluids, and should be at your local AZ or AAP. I use it on the fleet. Flush every 2-3 years.

Second the recommendation against slotted or drilled rotors for normal use, unless you really need them, which you probably do not.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by andyd
If you haven''t let the pads get to zero, then why change rotors? If there isn't any shaking... If you think high priced BF will give you 3yrs, go for it. I'd go for whatever the last set were if they gave good service. I favor soft, dusty cheap pads because they cause less rotor wear. Get a tube of Sil-Glyde to use for the piston and rubber stuff. I use special permatex black grease for the slides. I live in a marine climate, my 30 yr BMW needed a service every 2 yrs or a caliper would seize. . DOT3-4 is cheap and new once in a while is a great idea. I use the entire qt in one go The slides etc benefited with lube and the innards liked new BF.


I pretty much agree with you . If the rotors are OK , why replace them . I buy guaranteed for life brake pads / shoes and never worry about it after that . Let the vendor pay for them from then on .

Advance Auto Parts sells Valvoline DOT 3 & 4 reasonably priced ;

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...-601458/7080002-P?searchTerm=brake+fluid

plus I get email discounts .

This is not rocket science , do not over think it .
 
As mentioned Valvoline Dot3/4 from local store is sufficient, you could even upgrade it to ATE Type 200 which states a 3 year service life.

checkout rockauto for your car, I would also forgo slotted rotors and keep with solids. You can go with "Cheap" rotors from Raybestos,Centric,powerstop without any issues.

Spend your money in a good pad as that is what gives majority of your pedal feel and initial bite.
 
Since I hate watching TV more than normal during election season that is when i do those every 2 year maintenance chores like brake fluid, antifreeze drain and fill, transmission rear end service etc.

Makes a nice reminder and much more pleasant that hearing the incessant TV ads or trying to surf the internet news.

Rod
 
Originally Posted by avi
... but wouldn't newer, thicker rotors will have more mass to dissipate heat, and at $40 each not much more expensive than machining the original ones.

I have never had a rotor or drum turned. Either use as is or replace. Unless they were in really bad shape, used them as is.

How many miles on the present brakes ?
 
If the vehicle spec's DOT3, you're fine with any that meets spec. Since you're concerned about mountain driving and/or heavy loads (even if not towing), just upgrade to DOT4. I wouldn't overthink it. Super Tech DOT 4, Prestone DOT 4, or an Auto Store brand DOT 4 will do the job. Check it occasionally, and 3 years really shouldn't be a problem.
 
DOT 3 Brake fluid. Doesn't matter which one. Flush it every 3 years. Your'e fine.

Semi metallic or organic pads only- no ceramic.

rotors- whatever you want. Just blanks for sure.

My opinion
 
I like ATE Type 200, SL6 or Castrol GT LMA for brake fluids. Decently long service life and boiling points. AutoZone carries the Bosch-recan of SL6 as ESI6 fluid.

Ford is specing DOT5.1 on the commercial cutaway/RV chassis version of the E-Series. However, in the defense of DOT3, even if that's changed out at every pad change you're still ahead of 99% of people.
 
Last edited:
Brakes are good to have. No argument. However a safe following distance and paying attention can greatly reduce brake wear.. I used to love wrenching on stuff. I'm not a hot rodder. I just want to keep whatever heap going, as cheaply as possible. There's lotsa stuff that gets replaced for no good reason by DIYers simply because they don't know better. Pros who have to stand behind their work will often replace more than I do.
 
Pep Boys has Wagner DOT 5.1 for $14.99 for the quart bottle

I saw Castrol DOT 4 on walmart.com yesterday for $10 for the quart, but it's all gone now
cry.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top