I would like to change the brake fluid in my 93 Ford Taurus and my 95 Oldsmobile Cutlass. I really don't want to mess with the bleeders for a number of reasons. Couldn't I simply draw the old fluid out with a turkey baster and replace with new and do this a couple of times over the next few months and be good to go? Taurus had a brake job about five years ago and fluid was replaced then. I have no idea on the Olds as I bought the car used about two years ago and have no idea about the brake history. Brakes on both cars work well. If I can do this, what would be a good fluid to use on both cars?
brake fluid exchange only
- Thread starter GreeCguy
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It won't do as good a job, and if you suck too much fluid out, you'll introduce air into the system and have to bleed it anyway.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
It won't do as good a job, and if you suck too much fluid out, you'll introduce air into the system and have to bleed it anyway.
I have been doing the turkey baster (TB) way for decades and can tell you no way does air get into the system. Air has to get in on the brake side of the master cylinder for this to happen. I TB every OC and this works very well for me.
It won't do as good a job, and if you suck too much fluid out, you'll introduce air into the system and have to bleed it anyway.
I have been doing the turkey baster (TB) way for decades and can tell you no way does air get into the system. Air has to get in on the brake side of the master cylinder for this to happen. I TB every OC and this works very well for me.
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
You'll never get the fluid thats in the lines,calipers and wheel cylinders out.That stuff just sits there largely all the time.When applied,more fluid comes down the lines to join it,then when released the "newer" stuff goes backwards.
Not true. The fluid does very slowly completely mix. As already stated, I have done this for many years and have seen the fluid even at the wheels clear up doing the TB way. However it doesn't happen quickly.
You'll never get the fluid thats in the lines,calipers and wheel cylinders out.That stuff just sits there largely all the time.When applied,more fluid comes down the lines to join it,then when released the "newer" stuff goes backwards.
Not true. The fluid does very slowly completely mix. As already stated, I have done this for many years and have seen the fluid even at the wheels clear up doing the TB way. However it doesn't happen quickly.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
You'll never get the fluid thats in the lines,calipers and wheel cylinders out.That stuff just sits there largely all the time.When applied,more fluid comes down the lines to join it,then when released the "newer" stuff goes backwards.
Not true. The fluid does very slowly completely mix. As already stated, I have done this for many years and have seen the fluid even at the wheels clear up doing the TB way. However it doesn't happen quickly.
How long would you say it takes?
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
You'll never get the fluid thats in the lines,calipers and wheel cylinders out.That stuff just sits there largely all the time.When applied,more fluid comes down the lines to join it,then when released the "newer" stuff goes backwards.
Not true. The fluid does very slowly completely mix. As already stated, I have done this for many years and have seen the fluid even at the wheels clear up doing the TB way. However it doesn't happen quickly.
How long would you say it takes?
It does circulate, takes about a week of driving.
Turkey baster the MC, then fill with fresh.
Then when you are swapping tires crack the bleeders and let them dribble for 5 mins just to help get some crud out of the calipers or wheel cylinders but don't worry too much about having crystal clear fluid at the wheels.
The idea is to keep the bleeders in use so they don't rust in place, and too keep harmful buildup of copper and gunk that can harm an ABS modulator.
The best thing you can do for your brake lines is to spray Fluid Film on them, hitting the gas line at the same time, to keep them from rusting out. In warmer weather Fluid Film creeps like mad and won't harm rubber or plastic as it is lanolin (sheep's wool) based.
Putting a bit of ez-slide on the rubber bleeder cap or silicone based lube will keep crud and salty water from getting past forming a better seal for the rubber cap.
Turkey baster the MC, then fill with fresh.
Then when you are swapping tires crack the bleeders and let them dribble for 5 mins just to help get some crud out of the calipers or wheel cylinders but don't worry too much about having crystal clear fluid at the wheels.
The idea is to keep the bleeders in use so they don't rust in place, and too keep harmful buildup of copper and gunk that can harm an ABS modulator.
The best thing you can do for your brake lines is to spray Fluid Film on them, hitting the gas line at the same time, to keep them from rusting out. In warmer weather Fluid Film creeps like mad and won't harm rubber or plastic as it is lanolin (sheep's wool) based.
Putting a bit of ez-slide on the rubber bleeder cap or silicone based lube will keep crud and salty water from getting past forming a better seal for the rubber cap.
I don't believe that the fluids can mix in the very long lines and into the caliper pistons, however.....
You might be able to reduce the moisture content in the old fluid. Brake fluid attracts moisture from the air and before reaching a level of saturation it should seek some equilibrium distribution in the fluid... like passing gas in a still room. Perhaps the moisture in the old fluid can distribute into the fresh fluid in the reservoir and some can be removed routinely with the TB.
Bleeding at the calipers is not difficult with a partner to work the brake pedal so why not just do. A proper job?
You might be able to reduce the moisture content in the old fluid. Brake fluid attracts moisture from the air and before reaching a level of saturation it should seek some equilibrium distribution in the fluid... like passing gas in a still room. Perhaps the moisture in the old fluid can distribute into the fresh fluid in the reservoir and some can be removed routinely with the TB.
Bleeding at the calipers is not difficult with a partner to work the brake pedal so why not just do. A proper job?
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
It won't do as good a job, and if you suck too much fluid out, you'll introduce air into the system and have to bleed it anyway.
I have been doing the turkey baster (TB) way for decades and can tell you no way does air get into the system. Air has to get in on the brake side of the master cylinder for this to happen. I TB every OC and this works very well for me.
That's good to know, because I did it once or twice on some older cars and ended up having to bleed the system. Now if I do it, I leave a small amount of brake fluid in just to be safe. Either way, nothing beats doing it at each wheel for reason's already mentioned above.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
It won't do as good a job, and if you suck too much fluid out, you'll introduce air into the system and have to bleed it anyway.
I have been doing the turkey baster (TB) way for decades and can tell you no way does air get into the system. Air has to get in on the brake side of the master cylinder for this to happen. I TB every OC and this works very well for me.
That's good to know, because I did it once or twice on some older cars and ended up having to bleed the system. Now if I do it, I leave a small amount of brake fluid in just to be safe. Either way, nothing beats doing it at each wheel for reason's already mentioned above.
Brake fluid is hydrophilic, that water is heavier than the brake fluid. It ends up at bottom of the brake circuit. Right where it is needed the least. This is why wheel cylinder bores corrode. Boiling water vapor. By using the TB method, you are lowering the amount of collected water in the system. Bleeding, gets rid of the crud where it does the most harm.
Sure..a turkey baster flush will help.
It works slowly and is not as complete, but it absolutely does have benefit.
It works slowly and is not as complete, but it absolutely does have benefit.
I'd say turkey basting a hydraulic system like a clutch or brake system would be a waste of money.
Living in FL, it's not like external rust is a huge problem. Spray some PB Blaster on there, let it sit a few days, then use a good six point socket to perform the bleed.
Living in FL, it's not like external rust is a huge problem. Spray some PB Blaster on there, let it sit a few days, then use a good six point socket to perform the bleed.
Not a waste at all.
Super easy and clean to do. It DOES eventually mix.
I have had cash poor customers with broken/rusted bleeders, and a few TB changes, there was improved braking.
For most of us, a quick swap between real bleeding is good maintenance.
Super easy and clean to do. It DOES eventually mix.
I have had cash poor customers with broken/rusted bleeders, and a few TB changes, there was improved braking.
For most of us, a quick swap between real bleeding is good maintenance.
Originally Posted By: tig1
I TB every OC and this works very well for me.
That's worth repeating, tig1. You do it regularly, and certainly not as a one time fix.
I TB every OC and this works very well for me.
That's worth repeating, tig1. You do it regularly, and certainly not as a one time fix.
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: tig1
I TB every OC and this works very well for me.
That's worth repeating, tig1. You do it regularly, and certainly not as a one time fix.
It does work well. I also TB the PS pump every OC. 10K. It doesn't cost much, and is easy and quick to do.
Originally Posted By: tig1
I TB every OC and this works very well for me.
That's worth repeating, tig1. You do it regularly, and certainly not as a one time fix.
It does work well. I also TB the PS pump every OC. 10K. It doesn't cost much, and is easy and quick to do.
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I do the PS at least that often, too. It's definitely inexpensive and easy. I would like to do a complete PS fluid exchange one of these days, but it's a far bigger bother than a series of reservoir evacuate and refill over a period of time.
Besides, I pull off a PS line, I'm sure to make an ungodly mess.
Besides, I pull off a PS line, I'm sure to make an ungodly mess.
I do the PS periodically, either when I think of it or if the fluid starts to darken. I do the brakes periodically as well. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, so it will definitely equalize the moisture content slowly, reducing the total amount of moisture in the system with each change.
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