Brake fluid change?

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I had a brake hose leak today in my truck and it drained all my brake fluid. The master cylinder has a black sludge in it were at a glance it still looks half full. Should I do anything about that or just dump new fluid in and then bleed brakes.

This is a 00 Silverado. I'm replacing with Volvoline Synpower dot 3/4.
 
Most certainly flush that junk!

Suck what you can out of the resevoir (a turkey baster works reasonably well), fill with clean fluid, then bleed each wheel one at a time until the fluid comes out clean.
 
I would wipe the sludge out. That way you get get back to checking the level without removing the cap. I usually jounce the bumper and see if the fluids slosh around when I check stuff.

I am surprised the hose went so soon. Never had one go much before 10 years. Was there any sign of rubbing? They all will eventually. Best to replace all rubber parts eventually. Just had a long thread on when to replace radiator hoses. The newer radiator hoses may be lasting longer. They are easier to check than brake hoses.

I hope you didn't get air in the ABS. May want to check the procedure for bleeding it.
 
The reservoir has a small fill opening so wiping it out is a no go. Any other ideas, I'm not sure what is involved in taking it out and trying to flush it with something. I'm a newbie to working on cars myself.

Labman, Yes it looked like something rub it. I had new tires installed yesterday at the dealership. But I just can't figure out how that would effect it, since I used the correct tire size. When I get a new line tomorrow and get it all put back together I will examine for rubbing.

After doing some searches I discovered pressing the pedal to far can damage the master cylinder. I hope I didn't mess anything up. I was towing a trailer and had a hard time stoping. I got lucky and I was in a neighborhood with no traffic and was able to stop uphill. I was pumping those brakes like mad though. The reservoir didn't go completely empty until after I got it towed home and let it sit for awhile in my garage.
 
I flush the system every 1-2 years with a quality DOT 4 in our BMW's and a `05 F-150. BMW recommends every other year as I believe it's a law in Germany to do so. From what I have seen this is a very over-looked fluid with a lot of US drivers but it's so important for safety!
 
Make sure the new hose is positioned where it doesn't rub on anything. Sometimes you have to twist one end around.

After reading your post last night, I got to thinking the new brake hoses I put on my truck in the early 90's are now pushing 15 years old. I had replaced the old ones just because they were about 15 years old. Oops! Nothing lasts for ever. Maybe I will risk waiting until the next pad change and do a complete job, hoses, rebuild the calipers, plus new lining. I just don't trust old rubber parts, and like to replace them well before they fail.

If after replacing the hose and bleeding completely, you have a good firm pedal, the master cylinder survived. Check by holding pressure on the pedal. If it slowly goes down, rebuild or replace it. If you are young and plan to do as much work as you can, it might be worth it to pick up a cylinder hone. They aren't that expensive and the easiest way to clean the cup eating crud out of the bottom of the bore. They also break the glaze on the walls allowing cups to work right. A MC has a lot of parts inside it that must go back right. Disassemble carefully and compare to the diagram that usually comes with a kit. A rebuilt cylinder will have a clean reservoir.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Soupy:
Yes it looked like something rub it. I had new tires installed yesterday at the dealership. But I just can't figure out how that would effect it, since I used the correct tire size. When I get a new line tomorrow and get it all put back together I will examine for rubbing.

Has it occurred to you that the stealership monkeys likely caused the damage?
 
It's possible that the dealership caused it, but since I just purchased the truck it's hard to say.

I also had a buddy put new rotors and brake pads on a couple days earlier. He never disconnected the brake line though. At first I thought he pinched it when he set the caliper aside, but it was definitely cased by rubbing.

I'm trying to find some bleeder screws as I damaged a couple so as soon as I get this thing put back together I will have a better idea what might have caused the rubbing.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Soupy:
It's possible that the dealership caused it, but since I just purchased the truck it's hard to say.

I also had a buddy put new rotors and brake pads on a couple days earlier. He never disconnected the brake line though. At first I thought he pinched it when he set the caliper aside, but it was definitely cased by rubbing.

I'm trying to find some bleeder screws as I damaged a couple


The plot thickens. I recommend you and your buddies stay away from the underside of your truck before someone gets killed.
You know, labman, you are totally right about not messing around with stuff that ain't broke.
 
quote:

The plot thickens. I recommend you and your buddies stay away from the underside of your truck before someone gets killed.
You know, labman, you are totally right about not messing around with stuff that ain't broke.

Why do you recommend I stay away from under my truck?

I missed Labmans quote that he recommends not fixing something that isn't broke. Matter of fact he said he likes to replace things before they brake. Don't know how that applies to my situation anyway.

I did some digging and it appears there was a recall addressing the front brake line rubbing.

Thank you for your valuable contribution to this thread.
 
I try to use good judgment. I also stick close to the owners manual. If the manual says do it, you had better do it, at least while still in warranty even if you don't see any need. Been around long enough to see a lot of rubber stuff eventually fail, hoses of all kinds, windshield wipers, tires, caliper seals and boots, pencil erasers, etc. There was a thread recently about when to change radiator hoses. I try to think to check mine now and then, and is the upper one is spongy change it, the lower, and the bypass. Last fall I did the coolant in my truck too.

On the other hand, I am leaving the platinum tip spark plugs in the aluminum head to the 100K my owners manual says. I have never changed brake fluid as such. After I do preventive maintenance on the calipers, there isn't much of the old stuff left. The rubber boot on a caliper may still look good, but it is hard to tell if it has lost its snap or gotten too hard to keep the yuck away from the expensive piston. When I rebuilt calipers for a living, I saw many frozen or leaking ones that the boot still looked good. The piston always had a big gob of rust on the outer part.

Some things you are going to do sooner or later. May as well be at home in the garage when you have time for it. Other things are best left alone.

Best to work up to more challenging projects as you aquire experience.

If you don't have the old bleed screws out yet, see http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=24;t=000035#000000

*iatrogenic (iatro- + Gr. gennan to produce) resulting from the activity of physicians. Originally applied to disorders induced in the patient by autosuggestion based on the physician's examination, manner, or discussion, the term is now applied to any adverse condition in a patient occurring as the result of treatment by a physician or surgeon, especially to infections acquired by the patient during the course of treatment. Cf. nosocomial.
 
WINDNSEA00, absolutely correct, all EU nations will force you to change your brake fluid every four years. Just like here in the states having a mandatory smoke check every 4 years, EU adds a technical inspection on top of that. That includes brake check (including brake fluid boiling point check) and a host of other drive terrain checks to ensure that a car will be fit for the next four years.
 
Labman thanks for you help. Everything is back together and working good. I got the bleed screws out last night, but two of them were to tight and eventually started to strip on me. I then decided to use the old vice-grips and finally got one off, and the other I had to pull the caliper and put it in the vice.

I had my father who is a retired mechanic but to old to work on things guiding me. What we were doing was tapping the wrench with a hammer to create impacts but like I said they were stuck good. I soaked them all with PB Blaster for a couple of hours beforehand too. None of them broke, but the were damaged good from the wrench slipping and then the vice-grips finished them off
smile.gif


The hose was not damaged from the caliper sitting on it or hanging from it. That is what I thought at first but my father pointed out that only rubbing could have caused it and I agreed after looking closer. You can tell the difference between a pinched hose and one that has been rubbed through.

AllData mentions a recall for this problem, but I am not sure if my actual truck is part of the recall. I plan on taking it to a dealer and having all recalls performed. I know there is a recall that pertains to setting the caliper on the brake hose. All they do is install a warning tag on the brake hose, but I already knew this and warned my buddy to be careful when installing the front brakes.

It's funny how some people take a simple question and turn it into something it's not.

Thanks again....
 
quote:

Originally posted by Soupy:
It's funny how some people take a simple question and turn it into something it's not.

Sorry I got all cynical on you, but I was just playing the odds: It's very likely that a catastrophic failure occurring just days after a repair is due to human error.
 
i find it easier to crack bleeder screws with a 6-pt socket or 6-pt closed end wrnech, then use a good flare nut wrench for tightening/loosening. the only two brands of flare nut wrneches i like so far is snap-on and craftsman, any other i've tried (any of your parts store lousy specials) has flexed and caused rounded edges.
 
quote:

Originally posted by ChrisW:
i find it easier to crack bleeder screws with a 6-pt socket or 6-pt closed end wrnech, then use a good flare nut wrench for tightening/loosening. the only two brands of flare nut wrneches i like so far is snap-on and craftsman, any other i've tried (any of your parts store lousy specials) has flexed and caused rounded edges.

I was using all Snap-on tools, only thing my father would buy and as a shop owner he has just about everything tool used before the 90's. I used a combination of flare wrenches, and sockets. The sockets worked the best but after a 100 taps with the hammer and thinking I was finally getting some movement it just turned out to be the screw rounding off.

My next problem is replacing the fuel line were it connects to the front side of the fuel filter. The previous owner had stripped it and I can't get that side off the fuel filter. I'm not sure what my best option there is.
 
quote:

Originally posted by 1maniac:
This precisely is why you should not let a disconnected caliper hang by the hose while you perform work on your rotors.

It's not just amateurs. Unbelievably, I've seen service shop bozos allow the caliper to hang by its hose, too, rather than take a few additional seconds to support the caliper with wire or twine from a frame or suspension piece to relieve tension on the hose. I could only hope they apply that same level of care to their own vehicle when they service their brake pads - except with my luck, I'd probably end up with one of them tailgating me in an emergency...
 
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