You don't need to clean the bottle afterwards. Run the bleeder until the bottle is empty and the master cylinder reservoir level drops very slightly. Disconnect air, turn down regulators, then unscrew the bottle cap slowly. There is zero mess.
Brake Bleeding...Pressure VS Vacuum and Preferred DIY Kits?
- Thread starter SoCalAngler
- Start date
I think the mess would come if there is still a quart remaining in the bottle when you disconnect everything, but you're right, you can just keep bleeding it out until it is gone. But I would want to clean out the inside of the bottle afterward or maybe it is a non-issue?
For the couple of drops, why bother?
Sounds like a non-issue then. I don't use it for anything else anyway.
Thanks for that info.. Looks like the cars that don't need the extra help (pressure) could do gravity bleed. I'll have to go back, search for the older discussions..
The Macan's service interval for brake flushes is 2 years or 20k miles. Dot 4 LV spec. I buy tools instead of taking it to the dealer for service. This pressure bleeder is on its way for the weekend seasonal tire change and bleeding:
No compressor needed.
No compressor needed.
That looks similar to the Motive
Probably very similar. Was recommended by users. I suspect I will turkey baster the fluid out of the reservoir, refill it and then just use pressure (no fluid) in the bleeder. It seems to work with the fluid, but I can go slow, release the pressure and refill the reserviour often. Rushing has never helped me succeed at these things.,
Curious.....why would you not fill and use the reservoir...seems like it would save time and not run the risk of having MC reservoir running too low and allowing air into system.
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Probably to save the mess of cleaning the pressure bleeder out after each use
I love my motive. Too lazy to clean bottle, just pushed air. So easy
Very true on early Corvette calipers. Very low pressure works well. Just get the fluid moving. And lightly rap the caliper with a small ball peen to dislodge any stuck bubbles. These calipers were nuts to bleed.I remember like 20 years ago on here somebody advised against pressure bleeding because the increased pressure would force air to dissolve into the brake fluid
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quote " 2018 Toyota RAV4 Gas model. I would also like to exchange all brake fluid and bleed the system"
The only way you will achieve a full exchange of all brake fluid is by using the Toyota Techstream software and perform the ABS brake bleed, ( higher end scanners can do the same) . I have used the software to brake bleed our 2019 highlander and a 2017 Prius.
The software uses the ABS pump to move out all the fluid and re-calibrate the ABS system. It's normal only done by the dealer when they have to replace components of the ABS system.
I highlighted the process here : https://priuschat.com/threads/air-bleeding-with-techstream.244147/ which screen captures of the software. You need helper in the car, how clicks the next, and your under the car cracking open the bleed ports when directed by the software.
The only way you will achieve a full exchange of all brake fluid is by using the Toyota Techstream software and perform the ABS brake bleed, ( higher end scanners can do the same) . I have used the software to brake bleed our 2019 highlander and a 2017 Prius.
The software uses the ABS pump to move out all the fluid and re-calibrate the ABS system. It's normal only done by the dealer when they have to replace components of the ABS system.
I highlighted the process here : https://priuschat.com/threads/air-bleeding-with-techstream.244147/ which screen captures of the software. You need helper in the car, how clicks the next, and your under the car cracking open the bleed ports when directed by the software.
and that explains why gravity bleeding is ineffective for some vehicles! thanks for the info!
The pro-level bleeding tools are pressure-bleeders that fill/flush/bleed and even help in testing for leaks. The preferred method.
The fancy ones do have an internal diaphragm to separate the fluid from air, but one isn't going to find that on a DIY-level tool, which more mostly glorified garden sprayers.
I have a Motive, which has a pump to generate pressure, as well as a Gunson, which relied on an external air source (a tire) for pressure, like the Speedibleed.
The Motive is ok, but anyone who has owned a consumer-grade garden sprayer knows that they're not exactly built to last.
In use, I actually preferred the Gunson, which had more, and more consistent pressure from a tire, which is also easier to set, and refill to a preferred PSI level. It consistently filled the reservoir while under pressure, and didn't leave a large air bubble like the Motive does. However, though the principle is sound, the execution and build quality left something to be desired, with leaks at the tire chuck, and the reservoir adapter cap. The dealer was good at support with replacement parts, but fighting the tool got tiresome, which is why I bought the Motive for cheap online when things were still practically being given away to build online commerce.
No matter which style, the most vital part of a pressure bleeder tool is a good adapter cap. That's much easier to achieve with a threaded cap, like the style ATE has been using forever; I'm glad I don't have to deal with any vehicles that have the snap on covers like GM has used in the past, and such.
As far as whether to fill the bottle, in my mind, I'd much rather have the hassle of cleaning the bottle, rather than risk pushing air into the system and having to do the job again, especially if it involves a clutch, which can be more problematic to bleed.
Cleaning the bottle is another task, but again, I'd rather do it right, and start with a clean slate 2-3 years down the line, rather than pour fresh fluid into a container that has remnants of old brake fluid, not from a sealed container, and push that into the system the next time.
If I had to do it now, I'd probably opt for the Speedibleed, and will when the Motive acts up.
The fancy ones do have an internal diaphragm to separate the fluid from air, but one isn't going to find that on a DIY-level tool, which more mostly glorified garden sprayers.
I have a Motive, which has a pump to generate pressure, as well as a Gunson, which relied on an external air source (a tire) for pressure, like the Speedibleed.
The Motive is ok, but anyone who has owned a consumer-grade garden sprayer knows that they're not exactly built to last.
In use, I actually preferred the Gunson, which had more, and more consistent pressure from a tire, which is also easier to set, and refill to a preferred PSI level. It consistently filled the reservoir while under pressure, and didn't leave a large air bubble like the Motive does. However, though the principle is sound, the execution and build quality left something to be desired, with leaks at the tire chuck, and the reservoir adapter cap. The dealer was good at support with replacement parts, but fighting the tool got tiresome, which is why I bought the Motive for cheap online when things were still practically being given away to build online commerce.
No matter which style, the most vital part of a pressure bleeder tool is a good adapter cap. That's much easier to achieve with a threaded cap, like the style ATE has been using forever; I'm glad I don't have to deal with any vehicles that have the snap on covers like GM has used in the past, and such.
As far as whether to fill the bottle, in my mind, I'd much rather have the hassle of cleaning the bottle, rather than risk pushing air into the system and having to do the job again, especially if it involves a clutch, which can be more problematic to bleed.
Cleaning the bottle is another task, but again, I'd rather do it right, and start with a clean slate 2-3 years down the line, rather than pour fresh fluid into a container that has remnants of old brake fluid, not from a sealed container, and push that into the system the next time.
If I had to do it now, I'd probably opt for the Speedibleed, and will when the Motive acts up.
Ive had good results with the Harbor Freight kit that I bought many years ago. I can't remember the brand off hand. I still like to pressurize the brake pedal and crack the bleeder screw. I've read that alot of newer vehicles with abs recommend using a tool to cycle the abs to flush any dirty fluid out of the tiny passages.
Motive for years and years. Lots of different vehicles and works well on all that I've tried. Use the hand pump and never had any issues. Used to do "bottle dry" pressure bleeds until one time MC reservoir got low and air got into the system. All of my cars have the same Ate style reservoir cap now, so just fill the bottle. In fact, all use the same fluid so no need to worry about cross contamination. Bottle gets turned upside down for a few hours and hose is extended to let gravity take any remaining fluid out. Still do bottle empty bleeds where MC cap is not airtight (like when I need to use the universal adaptor) to avoid fluid leaking and causing a mess. Motive customer service is excellent too, and spare parts ordering is very easy. They even sell spare Ottinger ring style clamps and silicon hose.
