Brake Bleeding...Pressure VS Vacuum and Preferred DIY Kits?

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Preparing to replace rotors and pads on my 2018 Toyota RAV4 Gas model. I would also like to exchange all brake fluid and bleed the system. I'll also be performing this in the future on my '23 GMC 3500 6.6L GAS truck, as well as my other Japanese and American vehicles.

I have read posts from as far back as 2008, with kits and methods discussed. I know technology and information evolves rapidly.

1. What is the best current DIY kit to perform the fluid exchange and bleed system as a one man job?

2. Is Pressure or Vacuum preferred and why?

3. Which pressure systems are preferred and why....those that use a self pressurizing hand pump or those that connect to an air compressor?

4. Which vacuum system is preferred and why, those that use a self pressurizing hand pump or those that connect to an air compressor?

Thanks!
 
1) Speedi-Bleed: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/speedi-bleed-pressure-brake-bleeder.376008/

2) Pressure. If you plan on doing more complex repairs, pressure is required to bleed certain ABS modules. Vacuum always leaves some air pockets due to the aeration and you will need to follow up with a manual bleed. Anyone who says otherwise has never done a side-by-side comparison.

3) Ideally, you would want something with a diaphragm that separates the air from contacting the fluid, but those are tough to come by. I prefer shop air.

4) Air compressor, but only if you have a large tank.
 
1) Speedi-Bleed: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/speedi-bleed-pressure-brake-bleeder.376008/

2) Pressure. If you plan on doing more complex repairs, pressure is required to bleed certain ABS modules. Vacuum always leaves some air pockets due to the aeration and you will need to follow up with a manual bleed. Anyone who says otherwise has never done a side-by-side comparison.

3) Ideally, you would want something with a diaphragm that separates the air from contacting the fluid, but those are tough to come by. I prefer shop air.

4) Air compressor, but only if you have a large tank.
How large a tank? I have a 33 gallon tank air compressor.
 
So, between the Motive and Speedi, does it just come down to personal preference? I do like that the Speedi uses vehicle specific MC fittings that are machined alum. Motive MC fittings are plastic and universal. I've read that the universal adaptor is not great at sealing all vehicles. Therefore, I would need to purchase separately, a vehicle specific MC fitting....which is fine if the Motive is a much better unit for the solo DIYer than the Speedi.

Can the Speedi be adapted to compressed air instead of using a tire? If so, what kind of air volume would be needed to bleed and entire system? What is involved in converting to compressor or compressed air portable tank?

Upon searching for brake bleeders, there is a plethora of bleeders out there!

This time, l'll stick to the tried and proven products.
 
How large a tank? I have a 33 gallon tank air compressor.
30 gal will work for a pneumatic style bleeder but the compressor will be constantly cycling.

So, between the Motive and Speedi, does it just come down to personal preference? I do like that the Speedi uses vehicle specific MC fittings that are machined alum. Motive MC fittings are plastic and universal. I've read that the universal adaptor is not great at sealing all vehicles. Therefore, I would need to purchase separately, a vehicle specific MC fitting....which is fine if the Motive is a much better unit for the solo DIYer than the Speedi.

Can the Speedi be adapted to compressed air instead of using a tire? If so, what kind of air volume would be needed to bleed and entire system? What is involved in converting to compressor or compressed air portable tank?

Upon searching for brake bleeders, there is a plethora of bleeders out there!

This time, l'll stick to the tried and proven products.
Speedi is the cheaper option. I asked the owner to build me a setup to adapt to compressed air. I added a second in-line regulator to my setup for extra safety.

1742920954763.webp
 
30 gal will work for a pneumatic style bleeder but the compressor will be constantly cycling.


Speedi is the cheaper option. I asked the owner to build me a setup to adapt to compressed air. I added a second in-line regulator to my setup for extra safety.

View attachment 269977
I see that you have you added the gray regulator Also, you asked Speedi to build you an adaptor to use with your air compressor and that gray regulator with fittings and hoses is what the created for you? Cost?

Also, if you fill bottle with fresh brake fluid, and for some reason use it all, how can you refill the bottle without compromising and allowing air into the bleeding system?
 
I've never tried the pressure style bleeders, but had no luck withe the vacuum ones. Honestly, I've had the best results with the el cheepo gravity bleed bottles. A little patience and plenty of brake fluid on hand is all you need.
 
I see that you have you added the gray regulator Also, you asked Speedi to build you an adaptor to use with your air compressor and that gray regulator with fittings and hoses is what the created for you? Cost?
Instead of finishing off with a schrader valve, he just used a female adapter. That way I installed my own fitting. The regulator was something I sourced on my own.
1742922875314.webp


Also, if you fill bottle with fresh brake fluid, and for some reason use it all, how can you refill the bottle without compromising and allowing air into the bleeding system?
You can use the bleeder without adding fluid to the bottle. Pushing air directly into the master cylinder reservoir will not cause air to enter the system as long as the master cylinder reservoir does not run dry.
 
You can use the bleeder without adding fluid to the bottle. Pushing air directly into the master cylinder reservoir will not cause air to enter the system as long as the master cylinder reservoir does not run dry.
Exactly. Filling the bottle with fluid just seems so messy and then you have to clean it afterward. I've always (and everyone else I assume) always just use the bottle to push air. Sure, where the "air" meets the brake fluid there is that tiny risk of contaminating the fluid, but I'd wager that its no more contamination than what you get just by pouring the fluid out of the bottle. Probably less.
 
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