Brake Bleeder Recommendation

[daman]

Ahhh it says right on my bleeder(motive)do not exceed 20psi,
i use 15 and works great,more then that and you could rupture
the master.

not concerned 1 bit about moister breaks are just as hard and firm as the day i did 'em,flush them every few years. no problems.

 

[moribundman]

I think I use around 10 to 12 psi and that's plenty.

 

[doitmyself]

I think that nonsense about a cheap pressure bleeder introducing air into the fluid might apply in a commercialprofessional operation where they fill the tank up and it sits around for days or weeks on end. At home, you will fill it up, use it, then empty and clean it.

The one time I tried to vacuum bleed, I had air leaking into the fluid through the bleeder threads. Silicone grease or teflon tape would have cured this, but I like the pressure method better.

 

[moribundman]

Uhm, yes.

 

[james49]

With this http://www.wescotools.com/p-6685-mityvac-mva6832-clamp-on-auto-refill-brake-bleeding-kit.aspx the Mityvac would be just as quick and easy as the pressure method.

 

[moribundman]

Another gadget to clean afterwards!

 

[tvl]

Originally Posted By: moribundman
Another gadget to clean afterwards!


First, let me say, I really appreciate everyone's input. It seems I make my best decisions when I have LOTS of information/opinions. Based on this round of opinions, I am definitely going to go with the Motive pressure bleeder (p/n 0107). I believe I will have less chance of introducing air to the system with this unit.

Moribundman mentioned cleanup. When finished using the unit what is the best method for cleaning the unit? Simply flushing with a generous amount of water or some other method?

Thanks again!

 

[moribundman]

Originally Posted By: tvl
Moribundman mentioned cleanup. When finished using the unit what is the best method for cleaning the unit? Simply flushing with a generous amount of water or some other method?

Thanks again!


I wash the bleeder thoroughly with water and then rinse it with inexpensive rubbing alcohol, because this accelerates the drying process. Since I use the pressure bleeder only a few times per year, a relatively long drying period is no issue. If you need to flush brakes on a weekly basis, the Motive pressure bleeder may be unsuitable. It's just an excellent aid for the occasional user, which I am.

 

[tvl]

Thanks Moribundman!

I will be an occasional user also. Your method sounds great to me! Thanks for ALL of your help!

Side note: I have ALWAYS kept my vehicles in pristine condition .......... washed, waxed, changed oil, transmission fluid, etc. much more often than recommended by the manufacturer. I just never realized the brake fluid and power steering fluid should be changed somewhat regularly also. Our 1998 Expedition has only 80,000 miles on it and I did purchase it new. The brakes feel just fine and has the original fluid, as well as original brake pads (we are not hard on brakes). Because of my ignorance, and just out of curiosity, what has probably been occurring in my brake system? I am assuming the fluid now has a fairly high content of moisture which may have caused some corrosion ........... is this correct??

If so, will this corrosion cause me any problem during the bleeding process?

Thanks!

 

[moribundman]

After 10 years and 80,000 miles you really need to rebuild the calipers, because the seals and some other parts don't last forever.

I wouldn't worry overly about corrosion in the internals of the brake system.

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: tvl
I am definitely going to go with the Motive pressure bleeder (p/n 0107).

you made a good chioce,you'll love it and look forward to using
it again,when done yes just flush everything out with water let
dry and put back in the box...

 

[tvl]

Originally Posted By: moribundman
After 10 years and 80,000 miles you really need to rebuild the calipers, because the seals and some other parts don't last forever.

I wouldn't worry overly about corrosion in the internals of the brake system.


Trust me, that will get done when the brake pads are replaced. At the moment, it appears the pads have a good 10k miles left on them. Everything functions perfectly and there isn't a leak anywhere underneath the engine OR around the wheels and calipers.

Thanks again Moribundman and Daman!

 

[moribundman]

Since the brake fluid hasn't ever been flushed, the caliper bleeder nipples may have seized.

 

[tvl]

Originally Posted By: moribundman
Since the brake fluid hasn't ever been flushed, the caliper bleeder nipples may have seized.


1- What have you found to be the easisest way to deal with a situation like this?

2- I was about to place an order for the Motive bleeder model # 0107 when I noticed they carry a red label and black label model. The red label unit is model 0107 and comes with a plastic cap. The black label unit is model 0117 and cost only $10 additional. It boast a custom machined aluminum cap. Is this a better cap for sealing or whatever?

Thanks again!

 

[calvin1]

Quote:
1- What have you found to be the easisest way to deal with a situation like this?


For calipers you can cheat and open up the banjo bolts instead. Remember though that this is ONLY for a flush. Do not try to bleed the brakes from the banjo bolt.

calvin

 

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted By: tvl
Originally Posted By: moribundman
Since the brake fluid hasn't ever been flushed, the caliper bleeder nipples may have seized.


1- What have you found to be the easisest way to deal with a situation like this?




This product works great for frozen nipples:

http://www.nipguards.com/irp10a.html

 

[moribundman]

Originally Posted By: tvl
Originally Posted By: moribundman
Since the brake fluid hasn't ever been flushed, the caliper bleeder nipples may have seized.


1- What have you found to be the easisest way to deal with a situation like this?

2- I was about to place an order for the Motive bleeder model # 0107 when I noticed they carry a red label and black label model. The red label unit is model 0107 and comes with a plastic cap. The black label unit is model 0117 and cost only $10 additional. It boast a custom machined aluminum cap. Is this a better cap for sealing or whatever?

Thanks again!


I've never had to deal with seized bleeder nipples.

I would suggest the application of penetrating oil a day before the flush. I would also suggest using a ring wrench instead of an open end wrench.

My Motive pressure bleeder has a sturdy black plastic cap. I don't know if the aluminum cap is superior, and if so, if it even matters.

 

[moribundman]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
This product works great for frozen nipples:

http://www.nipguards.com/irp10a.html


As someone who uses wet and dry suits frequently, I prefer dabs of strategically applied vaseline. Nipguards are not very manly...

 

[hooligan24]

I use speedbleeders. I can bleed all 4 calipers at the track by myself in less than 10 minutes


http://www.speedbleeder.com/

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: tvl
OK, that's what I wanted to see. Someone who has USED the simpler pressure bleeder and has experienced NO issues. I do believe this fact alone will sway me towards the pressure bleeder.

But, just so that I can say that I asked, have you ever tried the vacumm type (such as Mityvac). What are the pros and cons of this type unit?

Thanks soooooooo much!

I've used the Motive #108 on my Saturn with great results. Prior to starting the flush, I pump the pedal (1/2 stroke) several times until the pedal firms up. I use 20 psi and during the flush, I tap the caliper with a rubber mallet to dislodge any trapped air bubbles. I have used a Vacula branded vacuum bleeder before (compressed air operated), and for a few years my pedal felt a bit soft. I thought it was normal, but after a service with the Motive bleeder, the pedal firmed up considerably. Therefore, I believe that vacuum bleeding introduced air into my brake system.

Originally Posted By: tvl

1- What have you found to be the easisest way to deal with a situation like this?

2- I was about to place an order for the Motive bleeder model # 0107 when I noticed they carry a red label and black label model. The red label unit is model 0107 and comes with a plastic cap. The black label unit is model 0117 and cost only $10 additional. It boast a custom machined aluminum cap. Is this a better cap for sealing or whatever?

Thanks again!

1. Use plenty of penetrating oil and a six-pocket socket to snap the bleeder screw loose. I flushed a Saturn and a Toyota for the first time in 15 years. I did not use penetrating oil on the bleeder screws and I had no trouble loosening them. However, I live in a very mild climate and neither of the cars have ever been exposed to snow or salt.

2. Like Mori says, I doubt it even matters. Perhaps if you worked at an auto shop and used the bleeder on a daily basis, the aluminum cap would last much longer. But for occasional use, the aluminum cap is not needed.